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Cold air box around K&N filter????

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96TalonAWD

20+ Year Contributor
224
0
May 3, 2002
Orlando, Florida
i have hear about this thing that supposly works cause keep the engine hot air away but also i think restricts airflow and the air will always be hot under the hood???

any experiences with this??
 
its all custom, some people have made boxes to enclose the filter to keep the heat from the engine away from the filter, theoretically it should help.. Im going to do it eventually when I can come up with a design that looks and performs well
 
Originally posted by 96TalonAWD
i have hear about this thing that supposly works cause keep the engine hot air away but also i think restricts airflow and the air will always be hot under the hood???

any experiences with this??

If you have a fmic, and the piping is not in the smic location. I would get a PVC 90* elbow, open up the hole that the uicp is routed threw and drop the filter way down in the finder. kinda like this

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Hey, I've been having this problem, when i let my car idle (and after a few minutes) the rpms start to bob up and down (from 1000 to 500) and my knock sensor LED flickers intermittently. But after the fan comes on it goes away. Could this be from the heat produced from the engine?
 
The biggest complaint I've heard from a few people who did the custom work to fit a cold-air intake where the old SMIC was is that when it rains, you're either dead in the water, or you've got to rig up a plastic bag over the intake or some such to keep the water out. Cool idea, and the numbers I saw from a few people seemed to justify it, but it seems to be a little unfriendly for the daily driver...

Another approach I've seen is like this, where you simply fashion a sheetmetal box around a cone-style air filter, fitting it snug against the hood. Keeps the hot air out, but I can't imagine it helps out with airflow much. [EDIT: Yeah, kinda like what Turbo4WD did, but without the lower front-facing intake.]
 
you pretty much have to avoid puddles that are a couple inches deep and thats it. I have friends with CAIs. There was another thread where someone suggested that the AEM bypass would work and then that got shot down for some reason but I think something could be fabricated like it.
 
the AEM bypass valve may work, but I dont think so BECUZ it has be be on the same angle as the TB so parallel to the TB and it also has to be a certain distance from it.. so now that I think about it since it would be on the turbo side I dont know if that would work or not, prolly to much of a restriction and since it works of pressure adn with a turbo its not constant I can see how it wouldnt work
 
OMG PVC has absolutely no place whatsoever inside of an engine bay. We had a lengthy discussion about this here (ga.dsm.org)

Please do youself a favor and read that thread, remove the pvc from your car, and never reccomend it to anyone ever again.

--Thorin
 
pvc after the mass air meter will not get to 1600*F and i dont see chunks of pvc being sucked thew the screen in a 2g mass air meter. do you?
 
It's your engine, but I wouldn't do it. Chloride eats alumnium. Chloride is released when PVC is heated.
 
I can give a little insight to what I did. I have not checked my cold air section of my site in a while and don't remember exactly what I put. Parts Needed:
Piece of Aluminum (thickness depends on what you feel comfortable cutting and bending)
3 inch aluminum drier ducting (wear gloves, I cut myself twice on the edges and didn't know it until I found red on the pipe)
RS/GS front air damp shield
3 inch hole saw.

Of course you need to have the SMIC removed for this to work well.
1. Remove all the guts from the wheel well. You will need pull the inside wheel well fender protector to get to the 90deg plastic fitting.
2. Cut a 3 inch hole in the lower section of the shield. (Cut in the right place allows you to secure it with screws to the plastic inside clips)
3. Measure the drier hose to fit and cut it.
4. secure it to the shield with the screws.
5. Run it up to the stock opening.
6. Crush the pipe to fit in the odd shaped opening and once through, flare it out, and open the pipe back up.
7. Make your aluminum shield. (I made a cardboard template first and cut and bent the aluminum to match)

At that point you have the cold air to the filter.

Now the bigger question... does it work! The answer is yes and no. I found when I was running the SAFC I actually hit fuel cut because of the cold air at the MAF. So yes it works... But I also measured air intake temps and found that the airfilter heat soaked while sitting at a stop light. Once the air filter heat soaked it took a while of constant driving to bring those temps back down. All said and done, a cold air intake while driving in cold weather might be good for 5 HP. But you might also find that you suddenly start hitting fuel cut too because of what the MAF sees.

Here is one more thing to consider and I will get off the soap box and go back into hiding...
That air you are bringing in is preturbo. Thus the turbo heats and compresses the air. Of course if you can really cool the air going into the turbo it helps, but not near as much as a FMIC...

-Shawn
http://www.Turbo4WD.com
 
Or you can make that airbox around your filter. It wouldnt restict air a HUGE amount because you give it some space around the filter, more than the air can had. it just helps to block off some of the hot air from then engine. you could always run some dryer ducting down to the front of the car like a cold air that guides it up to your filter. ive seen it done on a 2g before but I think it was on a later 2g which had the different front bumper so youd have to customize how it came out at the front. surf vfaq.com and you'll probably find what im talking about.
 
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