Dieselboy
20+ Year Contributor
- 2,359
- 1
- Nov 6, 2002
-
Seattle Area,
Washington
Home Depot Performance inc. has come with yet another high quality performance part for your DSM enjoyment.......
Okay enough crap. A while ago, someone posted up on what parts they'd need from Home Depot to make a home made intake. I said that I'd be the one to make out a prototype to see if it works. Well, if you read my mods, I did it about a week and a half ago, and it came out quite nice. Its not a completely perfect fit (I used straight pipe for better flow), but it certainly does the job and Ive had no complaints or problems over the past 2 weeks with it. Do not pay $100+ for an intake from Dejon Tool, Mach V, or anywhere else. This project will cost you less than $20.
Ill list the stuff you need below, as well as the steps youll need to take. I will also post pics on here in a day or two. All the parts I list are from Home depot, so for instance, if you have rubber reducers/couplers of your own, the measurement of the pipe may slightly have to be shorter or longer. So this is my vfaq on how to make one....
Parts youll need from Home Depot:
-1 foot of 3" ABS plumbing pipe. Dont worry, its quite thick and does the job (its black, found in the plumbing section where all the pipe is at).
-1 rubber 3" coupler. Black, and has two clamps on it (also found in the plumbling section)
-1 rubber 3"-to-2" coupler. Appears the same as the above coupler.
-1 1" drilling bit (you will need to drill a hole for the dump tube)
-1 tube of sealant or bonding adhesive (I used sylicone sealant, but Id recommend something stronger like JB Weld, caulking, rubber cement, ect...)
-1 roll of black tape. Can be duct, plumbers, electrical tape, ect... This is mainly for a cosmetic purpose, but also does serve in keeping the dump tube inside/in place.
A hack saw or something to cut the pipe
Making the intake pipe
1). Remove your entire stock intake unit. Then seperate the MAS from the stock intake tube.
2). Take a flat head screw driver can carefully pry the metal dump tube out of the stock rubber intake piece (you can use sealant to seal the tube back in there if you ever want to switch back to stock).
3). Cut about a 6" section of the ABS pipe. Try to get the ends as straight and flush as possible. Sand or file smooth if desired.
4). Decide which end will be the MAS side, and which will be the turbo side. On the MAS side, about 1½" from the end, CAREFULLY drill the 1" hole for your dump tube. Then take a file and begin to smooth and slightly enlarge the hole. File the hole JUST big enough to squeeze the end of the metal dump tube into. By no means do you want to make it to large.
5). With the dump tube hole done, take the tube back out, take your sealant/bonding adhesive and carefully line the end of the dump tube with it. Stick it in the hole you just drilled and place another coating over the outside also to seal the tube in place and make it air tight. Allow at least 30 minutes to dry (will vary with what product you use). After it drys, take your black tape and neatly wrap around the whole intake tube, as well as the bottom of the dump tube and the area you sealed. Do a neat job, while also helping to reinforce the tube.
6). Place the couplers on the finished intake tube (3" on the MAS side, 3"-to-2" on the turbo side). You will need to wrap the end of the MAS with tape or something, to make it larger so you can have the extra diameter to place the coupler on it (what I actually did was cut the section of the stock rubber intake pipe that fits there and used that, it works perfect). You will also need to cut a small section in the 3" coupler to make wat for the vacuum hose conection. Just cut a small line/strip out with scissors so that it slips over the vacuum connection.
7). Place the finished intake product back on the car. You will need to use the rubber section that fits on the turbo as well in order to properly fit (you should see the section when you took the stock rubber pipe off). I found I have to put the intake pipe on first, then place the MAS on after its installed. You MAY have to do the same. Tighten all clamps.
The intake will slightly be pointing up due to the fact the pipe is straight, not an "S" pipe. Make sure your filter clears the hood line. If not, go back, loosen up the clamps, and make sure the pipe is as far in as it will go. If its still a problem, you may need to cut another ½"-1" off the pipe. The measurements I gave you should work perfectly though. Your finished product should look simular to stock if left black. You can opt to paint it if youd like to.
REVIEW
Spool and BOV are MUCH louder. Seems to be better throttle response and accelleration. I did a K&N at the same time and made a huge difference over stock. Appears stock to the untrained eye. Definitly worth $20. KEEP IN MIND that this was done on a 14B powered 1G so other applications may vary slightly. Hope it works for you as well as it did for me. Good luck
Disclaimer: Im not responsible for something getting fawked up on your car if you somehow mess something up. This mod wont work with a stock air can being used as well
Okay enough crap. A while ago, someone posted up on what parts they'd need from Home Depot to make a home made intake. I said that I'd be the one to make out a prototype to see if it works. Well, if you read my mods, I did it about a week and a half ago, and it came out quite nice. Its not a completely perfect fit (I used straight pipe for better flow), but it certainly does the job and Ive had no complaints or problems over the past 2 weeks with it. Do not pay $100+ for an intake from Dejon Tool, Mach V, or anywhere else. This project will cost you less than $20.
Ill list the stuff you need below, as well as the steps youll need to take. I will also post pics on here in a day or two. All the parts I list are from Home depot, so for instance, if you have rubber reducers/couplers of your own, the measurement of the pipe may slightly have to be shorter or longer. So this is my vfaq on how to make one....
Parts youll need from Home Depot:
-1 foot of 3" ABS plumbing pipe. Dont worry, its quite thick and does the job (its black, found in the plumbing section where all the pipe is at).
-1 rubber 3" coupler. Black, and has two clamps on it (also found in the plumbling section)
-1 rubber 3"-to-2" coupler. Appears the same as the above coupler.
-1 1" drilling bit (you will need to drill a hole for the dump tube)
-1 tube of sealant or bonding adhesive (I used sylicone sealant, but Id recommend something stronger like JB Weld, caulking, rubber cement, ect...)
-1 roll of black tape. Can be duct, plumbers, electrical tape, ect... This is mainly for a cosmetic purpose, but also does serve in keeping the dump tube inside/in place.
A hack saw or something to cut the pipe
Making the intake pipe
1). Remove your entire stock intake unit. Then seperate the MAS from the stock intake tube.
2). Take a flat head screw driver can carefully pry the metal dump tube out of the stock rubber intake piece (you can use sealant to seal the tube back in there if you ever want to switch back to stock).
3). Cut about a 6" section of the ABS pipe. Try to get the ends as straight and flush as possible. Sand or file smooth if desired.
4). Decide which end will be the MAS side, and which will be the turbo side. On the MAS side, about 1½" from the end, CAREFULLY drill the 1" hole for your dump tube. Then take a file and begin to smooth and slightly enlarge the hole. File the hole JUST big enough to squeeze the end of the metal dump tube into. By no means do you want to make it to large.
5). With the dump tube hole done, take the tube back out, take your sealant/bonding adhesive and carefully line the end of the dump tube with it. Stick it in the hole you just drilled and place another coating over the outside also to seal the tube in place and make it air tight. Allow at least 30 minutes to dry (will vary with what product you use). After it drys, take your black tape and neatly wrap around the whole intake tube, as well as the bottom of the dump tube and the area you sealed. Do a neat job, while also helping to reinforce the tube.
6). Place the couplers on the finished intake tube (3" on the MAS side, 3"-to-2" on the turbo side). You will need to wrap the end of the MAS with tape or something, to make it larger so you can have the extra diameter to place the coupler on it (what I actually did was cut the section of the stock rubber intake pipe that fits there and used that, it works perfect). You will also need to cut a small section in the 3" coupler to make wat for the vacuum hose conection. Just cut a small line/strip out with scissors so that it slips over the vacuum connection.
7). Place the finished intake product back on the car. You will need to use the rubber section that fits on the turbo as well in order to properly fit (you should see the section when you took the stock rubber pipe off). I found I have to put the intake pipe on first, then place the MAS on after its installed. You MAY have to do the same. Tighten all clamps.
The intake will slightly be pointing up due to the fact the pipe is straight, not an "S" pipe. Make sure your filter clears the hood line. If not, go back, loosen up the clamps, and make sure the pipe is as far in as it will go. If its still a problem, you may need to cut another ½"-1" off the pipe. The measurements I gave you should work perfectly though. Your finished product should look simular to stock if left black. You can opt to paint it if youd like to.
REVIEW
Spool and BOV are MUCH louder. Seems to be better throttle response and accelleration. I did a K&N at the same time and made a huge difference over stock. Appears stock to the untrained eye. Definitly worth $20. KEEP IN MIND that this was done on a 14B powered 1G so other applications may vary slightly. Hope it works for you as well as it did for me. Good luck
Disclaimer: Im not responsible for something getting fawked up on your car if you somehow mess something up. This mod wont work with a stock air can being used as well
Ghetto Style
