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take a look at this list (supporting mods for L3R)

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greathuskie

20+ Year Contributor
2,666
4
Sep 10, 2002
Hollywood, Florida
ok ive been perfecting a list of supporting mods for this turbo or similar ones, so let me know if im missing anything (im taking a loan out pretty soon to get my car running and buy most of these parts)

Venom Intake Manifold – (M29-378)
Venom Adjustable Cam Gears (C29-137)
Unorthodox Pulley Kit - 382
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com
HKS 272 Cams - 560
http://www.adfxracing.com
Crower Springs and Retainers - 250
http://www.crower.com/cgi-bin/detail.cgi?prod_id=84175
FRH Stage 2 Head + Bronze Guides - 1250
http://www.forresterracingheads.com
Auqamist 2s Water Injection Kit - 660
*[email protected]
DN Performance Exhaust Manifold - 600
http://www.dnperformance.com
Indy Racing Cores FMIC - 1350
http://www.indyracecores.com/
1G 60MM Throttle Body - ???
http://www.dsmtrader.com
HKS SSQ BOV - ???
http://www.dsmtrader.com

Venom Fuel Rail (F29-133)
SX Fuel Pump - 315
http://www.extrememotorsports.com/g2cat/fuelmgt.htm
SX Fuel Pressure Regulator - 175
http://www.extrememotorsports.com/g2cat/fuelmgt.htm
Clinic Fuel Injectors, 850cc - 445
http://www.diamondstarmotorsport.com/fuelparts.shtml

RMDSM Sway Bar Kit - 300
http://www.rernetworking.com/rmdsm/
Eibach Sportline Lowering Springs - 215
http://www.roadraceengineering.com
Tokico Illumina 5 Way Adjustable Shocks - 425
http://www.roadraceengineering.com
Baer Big Brake Kit - 695
http://www.automtosports.com

AEM EMS - 1350
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com
GReddy Turbo Timer + Harness - 115
http://www.diamondstarmotorsport.com/elecparts.shtml


2 things im not sure about are the intake and exhaust mani, for the intake my other option is a FRH cast mani, and for the exhaust mani the other one is a SFP cast mani

so let me know if im missing anything
 
What BOV are u gonna use to hold that much power? And do u have an exhaust system, i dont see one listed. Does the EMS work as a boost controller also? is the L3R you're getting gonna be internally gated? Also you'll need a clutch that can handle that much power. And if you plan on going fast you better be able to stop fast. And does that EMS log data? i've heard good things about it but never read up on it.
 
the list isnt complete

id like to get the baer big brake kit from automotosports.com (awesome price)

i havent decided on a BOV yet so i didnt put one, either tial or HKS....probably tial

my friend is making me a 3" turboback and im getting externally gated, so an o2 housing from victory performance should be on the list as well

we are ordering an ACT 2600

edited original post with these changes
 
Some Fuel system issues:

You're running an external pump, which requires either a sumped tank or a cell to work correctly. Secondly, are you going to use stock feed and return lines or upgrade to -6 or -8 ? How about a BIG fuel filter to match the rest of that upgraded fuel system?

Other issues:
The SFP is not cast, it's tubular steel.

If you're running an L3R, a turbo designed to work around your stock cast manifold, you should save some money and use the stock manifold, ported as necessary. If you really want to spend money on a manifold such as the DNP or SPF, then you might consider having them weld a T3 flange on the manifold instead of the mitsu flange, so that you can use the less expensive full garrett BB turbo.
 
I agree. Why bother buying a LR3 if you ae going to change the manifold. That is one of the nice things about it. YOu dont need to. If you really want to change the manifold. Buy the SFP one, and get a full Garret 60-1 or 62-1. If you do decide to buy the LR3 then you would need to go extrenal wastegate. So get the 46mm tial.

About the fuel. Get a 255lb high flow pump. Change out all the lines to -6 or -8. Get a high flow fuel filter as well. Or if you really want run a fuel cell. The Aem is all you will ever need for tuning. Yes it also does data logging. Now for the BOV. Dont even think that the hks ss is gonna cut it. You would need two for them. Either get the tial, or the greddy type R. I really would not bother with the pulley kit, and the cam gears. But if you want go for it. I just think money can be spent in better places.

One last thing. With the power you are going to be pushing. You would be crazy to run the stock flywheel. Brian (Green FWD from magnus) just lost his tranny, motor, and some other things from the stock flywheel blowing up. Get and aftermarket one.
 
Add in at least about $3-$4 thousand dollars for shit you won't think of months into the buildup. This is the little crap that adds up.

Mid way through, realize 50% of the parts you have currently, are junk, and sell them at 75% of what you paid for them. Easily lose $2 grand.

Now factor in your time/labor, and how much it's worth to you. It will take a week to put everything together, a few days to drop it in and get ready to run, 2 days of troubleshooting as to why it won't run, and about another week figuring out WTF you did wrong.

The first month your car runs will NOT be fun. Sorry, no one said it was easy. Throw another $500 dollars on parts you ruined during the initial instalation.

Now pay someone to tune the EMS. Will take a day to tune for the strip, and about a week to tune properly for the street. Sorry if you're asking about a modlist, you will have NO CLUE how to get your car running.

After adding all those up, hopefully you'll just decide to go with a 20g sized turbo, and a stock motor. WAY less expensive, and way less headaches.

FACT IS, many of us who went "all out" did it to good running cars. I know 95% of us, would never do it again. I know I wouldn't. The things I quoted above are real life examples from a fairly knowledgeable DSM'er.
 
One quick question for you -- are you buying the "package" deal from AGP with the SFP manifold, L3R turbo, external wastegate, etc?

You may want to stock up on axles....there's no way you'll build that and then resist temptation to drive it like you stole it.
 
Good point ^ We all forgot about drive line mods. Beefed up tranny, with spool, welded ceter diff, or 4 spyder gear. 4 bolt rear(Im not sure what year your car is. Didnt check) Maybe performance axles, and hubs
 
Originally posted by greathuskie
DSMu4ia, take your own advice

"If you're gonna do it...

DO IT BIG!"

If I didn't take my own advice, I wouldn't be giving it out to you asshat.

If you don't think I gave you truthful advice, then go sit on a rambone.

I have a list of everything I've purchased in the last 18 months for my car. It's complete. From A-Z. I was going to post it, and have one of the mods make it a sticky, so all you n00bs can take a gander at what it really takes.

Only thing I pondered was turbo choice. 95% of the stuff I bought using my own head. Some parts I asked advice on, and other parts I had to ask around to get the right part numbers (like external oil cooler, and misc. metric to standard adapters). If you can't do a buildup of this nature by yourself, then you don't deserve to do it. You will be sitting on a 12-second car, that could have been much more fun, and probably faster, with a near-stock 16g/20g setup.

Within 8 seconds of reading your post, you need at least another $2500 of stuff to make the parts work. Another 10 seconds would fine another $1.5k or so.
 
I am interested in what you have to post now. It would also be good to the unexperienced to look at how much and what all it takes to build a sub 12 second car.
 
A 12 second car is not hard to build, well for the AWD cars anyway. Intake (just a filter)
Exhaust (3") with high flow cat
port work
Boost Controller (17-20 psi)& monitoring
ACT2600
Walboro 255 Fuel Pump
Maybe a BOV

Thats it. For extra security I would go with a 16G. I have all these already though I haven't taken to the track. I friend of mine has similar mods, and since I peiced together my car. I have taken him done a couple times. (50/50) Both of us are pretty good drivers. He ran 12.5's at the track. I was running 14.6 on a stock car.
 
go suck a ####ing dick you flaming piece of shit, i didnt invite you to reply in MY post to flame me

instead of being an asshole why dont you actually try to help

i can tell you dont have any friends
 
Dude, I hate to burst your bubble, but you had a hard time pulling your motor out of your car now you are talking about building a fully built car? If you honestly go for it I say more power to you but I would keep things realistic.

Tony is right about most things. Both my brother and I have both gone too far on our dsms. If i had the choice I would have stopped at the 20G level. I love my car and I love driving it but there is only two settings of power on my car, slow (no turbo spool) or WOT. The car has lost a lot of the fun of driving. It is bad a$$ to roll around on the street and know that less than 1% of cars on the road can even touch you but the fun still isn't there. Most dsmers I know, would not do it as big. There is a big difference in doing soemthing big and doing something right. I am going to step off my soap box now.

Your setup looks pretty clean except for the things mentioned. I would also set aside at least 400 dollars for dyno time for your EMS to get the car running.
 
none of this is permanent obviously, and i am using the L3R as an example, i could go with something like a 20g or L2R and have full spool around 3100 RPMs and have a badass street car, i just wanted people to look at the supporting mods list since i plan on using it for any turbo that i go with be it a 20g or L3R or whatever
 
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