Front control arms need replacing?

[91Bomb]

When I turn the steering wheel from center position left or right with car sitting still I get a slight click/notch type feel before the tires move like something is loose or worn out. While driving at Interstate speed I can feel that slight shuddering like something is loose so I took the car to pep boys to get an idea what's going on and with the car on the lift the guy grabs the tire and moving it up/down/in/out shows how it has play due to worn out control arms. Does that sound right based on limited description here? Car is 1g fwd turbo 5-spd. Estimate is $750 for parts + labor and I refused to get it done because of cost. On a severe budget since car is worth maybe 2k and I have no long term plans for it. Any suggestions or anybody in nj have a garage and can help out for some bucks? Would like to get all worn out bushings replaced for safety concern mainly.

 

[Auto RS T]

You can replace just the control arm bushings and not the arms themselves, as long as they are not severely worn or have rust holes in them.

Once you get those in there you can address if the suspension needs more work.

EDIT: Added a link to my old "how to"

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...1g-front-control-arm-bushing-replacement.html

 

[91Bomb]

Thanks for that link!

Is that all straight forward or can it be a major pita trying to do that in my driveway in the wintertime?

 

[Auto RS T]

The install is pretty easy. Just make sure you get the car jacked up high enough to get in there. The most difficult part will most likely finding the right pieces of pipe to remove the stock bushings from the arm, or get creative.

Remember you only have to do one side at a time, that way you don't have to do them both in one day, or can warm up between doing sides.

 

[91Bomb]

I do appreciate the help, thanks.


Btw, what replacement parts are good? This a free/cheap modded 1g Turbo fwd 5spd with no plans on further modding. Don't want to use cheap crap and don't need anything stiffened up or at least not too much..

 

[My1GLaser]

Moog are good parts, but a little pricey compared to TRW at Adv auto. I've even gotten suspension parts from Ebay for many cars over the years. Tie rods and ball joints are pretty simple by design.

While it is apart it would be a good time to check your ball joints. If they are fine, then be careful separating them from the steering knuckle. If you use a pickle fork they normally get mangled. There are other ways to separate them.

If the joint is in good shape but the boot is torn, then Energy suspension sells just ball joint boots. They didn't have one specifically for a 1g DSM when I got mine years ago, but if you measure the size yourself you can get ones that fit well. They have a whole bunch listed by size. Suspension Restoration Parts Co. - Polyurethane ball joint boots and tie-rod boots.

You can also buy the whole ball joint from a parts store and press the old one out and the new one in. There is no need to buy a whole control arm for that either. You need a good bench vise, some large sockets & a 3lb sledge to get the ball joints out.

 

[91Bomb]

I actually have a parts car in my backyard and car is the same year and model as my car - fwd 5spd 2.0 - but it's non-turbo. Now I'm wondering if the control arms are exactly the same on my turbo car



edit:


According to advance auto they are the same part so I'm going to pull the control arms off the n/t parts car, inspect them, and replace bushings if needed, then do a swap on my good car. Plus I'll get to see how everything goes on the parts car 1st.

 

[steve]

Things to consider.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...t-lower-control-arms-dorman-vs-raybestos.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-suspension-brakes/267287-front-balljoints-easy-way.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...g-fwd-front-control-arm-bushings-install.html

From what I remember all 1Gs except those with 1.8L NA engines share the same LCA.

 

[91Bomb]

Ok I removed 1 control arm on my parts car and f'ed up the ?ball joint? from steering rack (i think that's what it was attached to) and couldn't get the tie rod unbolted either so I cut it. So it was a pita for me and on the other side couldn't get something unbolted and that control arm went to scrap yard with shell.

So now I'm reluctant to try removing these off my DD to change bushings, ties rods + ball joints (as needed) because scared of messing things up. Should I just get all these parts and look for someone with air tools and get help with this -OR- can I get some tips here to make this go smooth. Car is 1g fwd. Thanks!

 

[2slow4now]

I think you just answered your own question there. After fighting and ending up ruining parts just to get them off I usually just look at suspension parts on an untouched old car like ours as if they will all be replaced. If you have money and the time my preference is to take it all apart clean it all up replace all wear items and reassemble and be done. CAR OCD I guess.

I had some bolts in the rear of my 2g that I had to cut every single one to get the control arms off the car. I had one car the front axle was stuck so bad in the hub I just tossed the whole thing. I did attempt to get it out with plenty of heat, lubed and set for weeks, and beat the living shat out of it. A good tip on assembly is use plenty of bushing grease and anti seize so next time it will be easier. Same thing with the axles in the hubs. I'm not trying to scare you just saying to be prepared and have a back up plan if it will take longer than expected.

 

[serviceguy]

You can rent the tool to do the job at autozone (I added links to the HF ones for reference), that is what I've done when I did mine. No air tools are required for this job (even though are always nice to have by).

You need their ball joint service kit

Ball Joint Service Kit

and a ball joint separator

Ball Joint Separator

I replaced my bushings with Prothane, not expensive and good quality parts, for the ball joints I used the Moog ones as somebody else recommended earlier. I used the same links that Steve provided, I would only add that the front bushing can be removed using the clamp from the ball joint service kit.

 

[My1GLaser]

Loosen the nut on the tie rod and ball joint and spray PB blaster around the stud. It should work its way down into the area where the stud wedges into the steering knuckle. It can get pretty corroded in there. It doesn't always work, but it can help sometimes...

 

[miliman13]

sorry to step in, does any one have pics on how to do the same to a 2G . ? (replace bushings, and 2g guys have to replace their hole arm correct.) (ball joint isn't removable)

i ask because this just happened recently.

 

[GSLENK]

The 1Aauto.com LCA are very nice pieces, and prices. Its $110 out the door for the pair, and they come with the lower ball joint pressed in already.

Then, go buy Ball joints and links. Rock auto has very nice prices on these as well.

You can do the whole front end suspension (links, ball joints, LCAs) for under $200. Adding stiffer bushings may hike that price a little, but not too much over $200 I don't think.

Just buying the pair of LCA from parts stores will put you very close to $200.

Also it is sooooooo much easier to replace all of those together and literally just cut out the old crap. IF you are having difficulty separating the lower ball joint from the hub (spinning) put a jack under it, and load it up, then get a wrench on the nut.

I did my whole front end suspension minus struts and bushings in less than a day.

 

[91Bomb]

UPDATE:


Went and bought energy suspension bushings set and moog ball joints. Found a fellow dsm'er to help with install AND THEN found out both my existing control arms had holes in them from being rusted out being 20+ yrs old. Since car was apart and 20 miles from home we decided to reuse them anyway being car isn't going to be run too much longer (fwd 190K semi-junker). [I also had brought along a control arm from my parts car which was unusable due to metal worn from age].

So the reason for this update is to remind others that buying new control arms with bushings + ball joints already installed might be the better option as these cars are quite old now. You'll save time + hassle on install and won't have to worry about taking everything apart and finding out like I did that the extra 100 bux (over cost of bushing set + ball joints alone) would have gotten you 2 brand new control arms with bushings + ball joints included and ready for a quicker install.

 

[nelliott500]

I agree, 91Bomb. Just buy replacement control arms. When I pulled my trans, I replaced the front balljoints and lower control arm bushings since I had to pull them anyway. Not long after putting everything back in, I found that my driver's balljoint socket on the arm was worn and the balljoint would spin around. I ended up having to replace the whole arm. With the money I spent on a new balljoint and bushings, I could have just spent like $20 more to replace the whole arm.

If anyone is interested, 1A Auto sells both front arms for $106 for the turbo cars and $110 for N/T. It's a better deal than buying individual arms but they are available for $60-70 each.

 

[91Bomb]

If anyone is interested, 1A Auto sells both front arms for $106 for the turbo cars and $110 for N/T. It's a better deal than buying individual arms but they are available for $60-70 each.

Excellent link! As long as that's a quality part that's less than what I paid just for the bushing set + ball joints alone Although I did get energy suspension bushings and moog ball joints so not sure how much difference that makes over what comes with this part?

Things to consider.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...t-lower-control-arms-dorman-vs-raybestos.html

Just realized this WARNING!!! was in an earlier post. The link for $106 control arm pair seems like they're for Dorman's which the warning is saying they're substandard to Raybestos.

 

[90gsxjuice]

Dorman did update the control arms to fix the issues.