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I didnt want to open a new thread: MBC

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campos_racing

10+ Year Contributor
197
1
Aug 10, 2011
Laredo, Texas
Okay fellow tuners, before anything I read alot of threads and searched but there are no resolved threads. I bought an ebay mbc to do for now because of my budget and the fact that this car has been sitting for 1 year, I just want it back on the road again.

I took a look at this thread and the last guy says I dont need the check valve? Can anybody confirm this? Its the last post

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341158-mbc-external-wastegate-need-help.html

I have a 16g with a external 38mm wastegate if that has to do anything. I have read not to tee the bov, hence why I am asking this.

Or any body have pics or info on how you hooked up yours?

Thanks for any help guys.

This is similar to what I have.
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(Okay guru's correect me if I am wrong) No the vacuum line to the BOV should be a dedicated line. Genereally I see (and on my 91 TSi) the MBC connected from the vacuum line off the nipple of the turbo outlet then to wastegate. I think it should work the same internaly or externaly waste gated. Also you may check VFAQ... They have lots of great info for thing like this and a bunch of other issues as well.
 
I bought that mbc once. Closed was closed and one click open was 8psi or mani pressure. J-pipe nipple or a pressure line to it and other side to actuator. There is no bleed hole so a check my may keep the actuator open after throttle release.
 
Just an FYI that MBC sucks absolute balls. My 1g came with that same one, didn't matter if the check valve was hooked up or not, turn the knob "up" boost went down, turn it "down" boost went up. Only problem were the increments were- all the way open (no boost other than wastegate), right in the middle (maybe 16psi on a 16g), and all the way closed (wastegate never opens, max boost). It didn't matter how many clicks you turned it, you had either no boost, middle, or all boost. No adjustment at all. I've had the same problem with multiple of that exact MBC.
 
I thought for sure the title was a joke... I didn't want to open a new thread, but do it anyway. Reminds me of the saying 'with all do respect...' And follows up with something disrespectful LOL.

Anyway. This actually has been covered before, but I don't mind helping out. Yes use the 'check valve'. The check valve will help marginally with spoolup in two ways. Keeps the WG from cracking open and bypassing exhaust energy before target boost is achieved. Two, it doesnt allow boost pressure to 'bleed' until the check valve ball has been cracked open.

It also helps keep things predictable and can be more finely adjusted.

Lastly get rid of that crap and get a full on ball/spring type MBC, none of this hybrid bleeder BS. Jeez you could make one yourself that works better/less complicated than that thing.
 
Thank you spoolin Talon! Also saved to my computer!
 
Thanks guys, I just bought it without looking up about it. Ill try the voodoo then. Looks to be a ball & spring mbc. Thanks for the heads up.

I grabbed one too because it said in-cabin LOL. I don't have it hooked up, I just have it as a collectors item. The hose it came with is handy though.
 
I was just reading about putting a mbc in the car, but some say cable others to route the long ass vaccum line in the car. We'll see what I can get next week.

Ideally you wan the line as short as possible so it can actuate as quickly as possible. There are some remote in-cabin MBC (ie hallman) that allow for that. I personally wouldn't suggest taking a standard MBC and running 6'+ of vacuum line into the car, but I've seen some people do it with no "noticeable" drawbacks, however, get a hole in that line and you've got a lot of line to search through to find it.
 
Thanks guys, I just bought it without looking up about it. Ill try the voodoo then. Looks to be a ball & spring mbc. Thanks for the heads up.

Good plan. I mounted mine to one of the radiator tabs. Try to keep the vaccuum lines short as possible, as others have said. The mbc itself should be firmly mounted, you need clamps (or zip ties) to secure the hoses at the wastegate and j pipe, and make sure that the hose going to the wastegate isn't getting pinched. I have even had my intake clamp rub through my hose to the wastegate because it was in a bad spot. Not good!
 
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