JDM or Rebuild?

[Mo-Bo0st]

So my Tbelt decided to take a 6-7 tooth walk that resulted in all the intake valves being bent, several of them are in the head. The pistons have some damage to them as well.

Should i buy a JDM motor and just throw it in? if so where should i buy one from? anyone know of a reputable importer?

OR, should i rebuild my motor? What are your guys thoughts on this? I need some suggestions, and what some estimates of what you think your solution will cost me.

Thx.

 

[DSMAddict]

I have a 6bolt RS Galant edition 4g63 sittin around, 510 cc injectors, big 16g turbo, with the awd tranny, estimated under 50k miles, didnt end up having the money to do the 6bolt swap on my 2g so its up for sale

 

[Enigma_Man]

Why not save yourself some money, and not get a JDM engine, because they are exactly the same thing as we have over here (with minor unimportant differences that often don't come with the shipped block), except you can sometimes find out where the engines came from here.

Find someone with a clean engine like DSMAddict there.

-Jesse

 

[Mo-Bo0st]

im not looking for a JDM motor for any "reasons its better". I am wondering what the cheapest option is in my scenario. Trust me i could care less if my motor is JDM or not. Im am the last person to care about ricey shit like that. I just want my car to run again. Ill pm you about that motor.

Any other opinions?
Any estimates of what a rebuild would cost me?

Thx guys.

 

[Mo-Bo0st]

^^

 

[zac83]

I guess people still havent figured out the reasons why JDM motors own the USDM ones...

i got a big16g full motor/tranny/ecu/harness/turbo for less than 1300 bucks, how can you beat that with 240 horses at 12 PSI?

 

[Mo-Bo0st]

i was under the impression that getting a motor with the 510cc injectors and the 16g is a gamble when you order JDM motors. am i mistaken? do you know of a place that can garuntee these things?

 

[Mo-Bo0st]

i PM'd and emailed DSMAddict and have yet to get a response from him. If you see this Addict please get back to me.

 

[rdrkt]

Originally posted by zac83
I guess people still havent figured out the reasons why JDM motors own the USDM ones...

i got a big16g full motor/tranny/ecu/harness/turbo for less than 1300 bucks, how can you beat that with 240 horses at 12 PSI?

Because only a tiny % actually come like that.

 

[purplehazetsi]

DO NOT GO JDM, JDM IS VERY BAD the motors are garbage, but you will will get a good one of your lucky or you will get a bad one. They are horrible motors!!! moitures damage and they are beat to piss before they are taken out of the cars in ###. IMO go with rebuild, and do 95+ pistons and you are set, unless you wanna go forged. save your self the aches and pains of JDM

 

[PoppaSmurf]

im with this dude, you end up w/ a motor that you have no real proof of mileage on, no idea if its actually gonna start, you dont know what equipment your gonna get until you actually get it, by rebuilding your own motor, you know everything thats gone on w/ it

 

[slowpokin699]

rebuild definately

 

[zac83]

did you ever think about finding an import company that would take a picture of the motor before you bought it? How about before they even shipped it over? how do you think i got a big 16g and 510s? and just how do you think they are garbage?

Yeah, I'll admit that the rear roll stop (motor mount) sometimes wont fit, but if your putting a motor in, youve got your old stock one, and guess what.. boo hoo... the igniter pack is often crushed. use the one off of your old motor. You need your upper thermostat housing too. american o2 sensor is needed if your using the american harness (which works perfectly unlike what alot of people believe...) and the manifold is gets you awesome milage and just as much power in the top end.

You want to look at the gains of a JDM motor? exaust outlet from the american ex-manifold is 1.75 inches rougly (talk about a bottleneck...), exaust outlet on the JDM is 2.05 inches. think about porting the JDM one out a tad... A used 16g can net you 400+ bucks towards some big stupid turbo. not to mention you'r getting a low milage motor thats STILL factory assembled (to spec, alot better than rebuilt unless a professional is turning the wrenches).

Now people bi*** about low milage and how can you prove that... I just want to say that gasoline in japan costs 3-5 times more than it does here... also the emissions system in japan is very stringent and its cheaper to replace the motor with a crate unit after anywhere from 30-60k miles. thats why pretty much any motor you get from over there is still fresh with low milage. If you're REEEEEEEEALY picky, we can take an odometer picture from the clips (alot of times, they just sell the cars instead of replace motors). As far as getting documentation of how old motors are that werent pulled by the junkyard: where in america are you going to find a moderate milage big 16g/510s and a ported exaust that ran only on 93+ (up to 106 octane) fuel all its life and had to stick to strick emission laws keeping itsself prime and clean? and for less than 1200 bucks, also including ecu/harness/turbo/o2 housing (lancer one...) etc etc?

if anyone has any ?s give me a shout, i can point you in the correct direction to get one of these motors.

 

[DSMAddict]

yall are retarded, you show me where u can get the galant RS for engine for 1300 with a tranny, starter, and the turbo. Theres also something much nicer when going JDM for non ricey reasons(Assuming you inspect it). An entire original longblock that has less than 50k miles on it in any shape or form WILL be better than a rebuild on a motor with 100k plus on it. Yes some people have gotten jipped going with JDM but if yer not a freaking retard and inspect what you get first its not a problem. Yes the cyclone intake manifold blows, but who gives a s*** go buy a 1g for 50 bucks and be done with it. And unless u do the work yerself a entire rebuild will end up coming to around the same price amount, and rebuilds arent even worth it unless u go with aftermarket internals... which again will add even more money. So before u respond like someone who thinks they aren't a ricer, understand that there are reasons to go JDM other than saying "Yeah yo check out my JDM sheet".

 

[DSMAddict]

Oh.. and wheres the gamble when going for a block that came stock with a big16g and 510cc injectors? Im tired of freaking idiots claiming JDM sucks JUST cause it has the cyclone and people struggle with getting it to work.

 

[purplehazetsi]

Originally posted by zac83
did you ever think about finding an import company that would take a picture of the motor before you bought it? How about before they even shipped it over? how do you think i got a big 16g and 510s? and just how do you think they are garbage?

Yeah, I'll admit that the rear roll stop (motor mount) sometimes wont fit, but if your putting a motor in, youve got your old stock one, and guess what.. boo hoo... the igniter pack is often crushed. use the one off of your old motor. You need your upper thermostat housing too. american o2 sensor is needed if your using the american harness (which works perfectly unlike what alot of people believe...) and the manifold is gets you awesome milage and just as much power in the top end.

You want to look at the gains of a JDM motor? exaust outlet from the american ex-manifold is 1.75 inches rougly (talk about a bottleneck...), exaust outlet on the JDM is 2.05 inches. think about porting the JDM one out a tad... A used 16g can net you 400+ bucks towards some big stupid turbo. not to mention you'r getting a low milage motor thats STILL factory assembled (to spec, alot better than rebuilt unless a professional is turning the wrenches).



OK dude, JDM is a ripp no offence, 4 of my friends went JDM, they got there motors with severe moisture damage....... ok all for of the got bad motors, and they all went through differnet places...... In japan there isnt many highways so all the miles on the motor ae city driving... and if you had to get a new motor in 30k miles would you honestly drive that car nice and not beat on it.... cmon dude you know that they beat the hell out of them.... IMO stay with your motor and rebuild, at least everyhting is new and you know what is in your motor.......

 

[DSMAddict]

Thats the purpose of inspecting it...... before u decide to put it on... Yeah there are the horror stories but there more good turn outs. think of it this way, how many people do the SR20 swap nowdays? Hundreds, and they take the same chances, and you hardly ever hear about them having problems. JDM is trash if u leave the cyclone on yes, if u dont then its fine.

 

[Mo-Bo0st]

thx for the opinions guys.
if anyone knows any links to some reputable places that sell JDM motors i would be interested in looking at them.
or if any of you are selling anything like 2g pistons, or a good head, let me know cause i will be looking to buy relatively soon here.

zac83 i pm'd you.

thanks again for the opinions guys, keep em comming.

 

[rdrkt]

Originally posted by DSMAddict
An entire original longblock that has less than 50k miles on it in any shape or form WILL be better than a rebuild on a motor with 100k plus on it.

How do you figure? Lets see here. A balanced 91 rod overbored 95 piston motor with the balance shafts eliminated a fresh oil pump and head gasket etc vs a motor that has been beat to hell for the past 39-60k. I fail to see the advantage here. Please explain.

zac83: If getting the motor with the 16g larger injectors etc was as easy as you say it is A LOT more people would have them.

 

[DSMAddict]

And how do u know its been beat to hell from 39-60k? its chance u take will anything, just like buying a used car. Just make sure of what yer getting first.

 

[rdrkt]

Originally posted by DSMAddict
And how do u know its been beat to hell from 39-60k?

If you knew that you more or less HAD to replace the motor at that mileage range how would you treat the car? Compare this to a NEW motor. I cant believe people are actually arguing this.

 

[Mo-Bo0st]

i see where people are comming from on both sides of this arguement. I would like to research a little more where zac gets his stuff from.

If you could pm me that information that would be great.

I am still considering the rebuild though.

Thx guys. More opinions are welcome.

 

[Batty200]

I def have to agree with RDRKT here. A rebuild is the way to go! Now dont be a moron and try to rebuild without machining anything or checking clearances! Anything done poorly will suck ass.

I do however disagree with the 91rod/95 piston motor. Forged pistons are cheap enough why would you do anything else? After the cost of machining a set of 1G rods for 2G cast pistons you coulda had any compression ratio forged piston you wanted. Again this is my opinion so do with it whatever you want.


Later