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Is "Flow" the same for an air filter as an intercooler?

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9!'clipseDOHC

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Aug 24, 2003
El Paso, Texas
I am locating my air filter to the stock side mount intercooler location. I know that with an intercooler, you want airflow though the core. Which is why on my SMIC I had cut out the tire well liner and added mesh to increase flow though the intercooler like this:
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Now that my air filter is going there, I am planning on enclosing the bottom and side and was wondering if the back should be left open with the mess to increase flow though the filter or if it should be solid. I know the filter will be sucking air in but I'm wondering in theory, which method would be preferred.
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I would say enclose it from the back side. Especially if you see rain alot cause it will get water in and potentially hydrolock the motor. I say seal the back and bottom for these reasons.
 
I would say enclose it from the back side. Especially if you see rain alot cause it will get water in and potentially hydrolock the motor. I say seal the back and bottom for these reasons.

+1 The old Iceman intake for the Dodge Neon located the filter in a similar place and there were quite a few people that experienced hydrolocking.

Just be sure that you are careful if this is a daily driver car. :thumb:
 
It's not my only vehicle and I don't drive it when it rains (which is only a few times a year here anyways). I'm only concerned with getting the most air through the filter with it in that position.
 
I think you would benefit more from making a duct work to the filter in the stock location. I was trying to do a similar thing and was told about the pressure differences between the vacuum created and the airflow going past the filter.

Basically it wouldn't work as well if the airflow was directed straight to it and stopped so the motor could suck up the higher pressure air.
 
I think you would benefit more from making a duct work to the filter in the stock location. I was trying to do a similar thing and was told about the pressure differences between the vacuum created and the airflow going past the filter.

Basically it wouldn't work as well if the airflow was directed straight to it and stopped so the motor could suck up the higher pressure air.

This is good info too. As I stated I would block all sides but front, that way it all collects and is forced into the filter.
 
I think you would benefit more from making a duct work to the filter in the stock location. I was trying to do a similar thing and was told about the pressure differences between the vacuum created and the airflow going past the filter.

Basically it wouldn't work as well if the airflow was directed straight to it and stopped so the motor could suck up the higher pressure air.

Weren't you trying to come in from the hood though? Or exit air through the hood, right? I may be thinking about something else.

I'm going to give it a try, I've already bought the stuff and committed to it. Just wondering if it's better to have air flowing past the filter or not.
 
I believe that it really doesn't matter if the air is going past the filter or not. As long as there is fresh, cooler than underhood air availiable like you're going to have, it will get the job done.:D The turbo will be able to slurp up the air.;) I would cover the splash shield just to keep stuff from splashing up into the air filter though. I actually have mine in the same position and don't drive in the rain unless I have to like last year's DSM shootout. I was glad I had the splash shield installed.
 
Replacing the stock ic cover that passes air through it will give a slight ram effect since the air will bottle up in the area, if it's sealed well enough.

As the tire spins it litterally creates low pressure in the wheel well; clicky here. This makes the air want to not stay in the ducting to the intercooler. This is why sidemount ICs work ok. But this is also why the air will not want to bottle up there at all and no "ram effect" will develop. . . But if you're just in it for cooler air. It's not neccesary to replace that piece.
 
Good read Matt. So a fully enclosed ducting with a cold, ram air effect is good.

Here's what I've made so far this morning. Now I'm just going to need to work on covering the back. Filter and 90* elbow will be here on Thursday.

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It took me about 2 hours to fab up and I only had to use one little screw on the bottom, the rest bolted up with factory hardware and mounting locations.
 

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Looks good Nate.

Thanks Scott! Here the finished product (minus the filter)!

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Turns out the back piece took about as long to make as the other three put together. However it turned out better then I expected and its pretty solid. I sure hope it helps!

If anyone is interested I built the whole thing out of one 24" x 36" sheet of 24 gauge sheet metal from Home Depot that was $19.99. (plus a few nuts and bolts I had lying around the garage). Took me 3-4 hours all together.
 

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Just a suggestion, how about lining the edges with silicone or some sort of sealant so it's airtight, forcing air to go exactly where you want it to and not seep through some of the seams? Air is forced in through the front and has nowhere to go but into the intake. I like that idea.
 
Just a suggestion, how about lining the edges with silicone or some sort of sealant so it's airtight, forcing air to go exactly where you want it to and not seep through some of the seams? Air is forced in through the front and has nowhere to go but into the intake. I like that idea.

I thought about that but to get to the filter I will have to remove the back panel. I'd rather not have to reapply silicone every time. I may put some silicone around the sides though, who knows. However when I made it you will notice that all of the edges overlap so it's pretty tight. It wouldn't pass a boost leak test but It's pretty solid non the less.
 
Just got to home depot and buy some weather stripping and use it to line where the metal meets up. It won't glue anything together, it will seal well, and it will be cheap (which seems to be a DSMers top priority LOL).
 
Instead of silicone you can use vacuum line with a slit in it so you can put it over the edge of the piece. I was finding .05psi at 55mph, so I don't think the seal is critical, but you've done such a nice job so far, why not?
 
.5 psi would be nicer than .05psi :( . Who knows the seal may make that kind of a difference. I'm thinking of huge boost leaks and what they do to manifold pressure.

It is absolutely a great job so far! And at least you've guaranteed cold air and plenty of it. Isn't there some way where you can fit a shorty screwdriver and your hand into the duct from the front and just feel around to remove and reinstall the filter? Then you really could seal it.
 
You need to make a "kit"! Looks good.
 
.5 psi would be nicer than .05psi :( . Who knows the seal may make that kind of a difference. I'm thinking of huge boost leaks and what they do to manifold pressure.

It is absolutely a great job so far! And at least you've guaranteed cold air and plenty of it. Isn't there some way where you can fit a shorty screwdriver and your hand into the duct from the front and just feel around to remove and reinstall the filter? Then you really could seal it.

You need to make a "kit"! Looks good.

I second this!

Thanks guys! I would be able to get my hand in there to tighten the filter but I don't think that the filter itself will fit though the bumper opening. I'll find out for sure tomorrow when it arrives. This is the filter: K&N RE-0910 - K&N Universal Performance Air Filters - Overview - SummitRacing.com

I don't know about a "kit". First of all, I'm one of the few people with the "N/T" bumper so if would be a little different for you guys. Trust me though, If I can make it, you can make. This is only the second thing I've ever really made with sheet metal, the other was a heat shield for my N/T headers. All you need is a pair of tin snips and a drill.

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