2g, 6 bolt ARP install and cometic HG, look over this make sure im doing it right

[2GEEZEY]

I just got my block back and put together. Resurfaced and everything. Im installing my ARPs, cometic headgasket and putting on the head. I know theres a million threads about this and people using different methods and what not.
why cant there just be a set sequence and torque spec?.. anyway heres what im doing:

Finger tight the headstuds into the block ( with no ARP moly lube)
put on headgasket
Put on the head
lube both sides of washer and thread on headstud and bottom of nut.

Tighten 30-60-90 ft. lbs?

...confused about sequence. engine bulders chime in this is my first engine build.
thanks

 

[RedVengeAPX]

sequence should be if your looking at it with the cam gears on the right

7 5 2 4 10

9 3 1 6 8

I can't remember if I torqued mine to 85 or 90, but I think I also took an extra step and did 15-30-60-85/90

 

[gst96spyderman]

^+1. Had a problem getting valve cover gasket to seat properly. But this is a pretty straight up process

 

[2GEEZEY]

sounds good, just still confused on the sequence

 

[GIRman67]

Here you go I rotated the picture so that front of the engine is on the bottom of the picture and the cam gears are on the right. It made it easier for me. According to ARPs instructions that I recieved with my 7 bolt studs:

"Following the maunfacturer's recommended torque sequence, tighten the nuts in three equal steps to 80ft/lbs. with ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT."

That's the direct quote from ARP installation instruction sheet.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[2GEEZEY]

okay thanks so much! so basically do one row first, then the next?

and you dont have to re torque these because there new correct?

 

[GIRman67]

completely incorrect. look at the illustration it shows the order to torque them in

7 5 2 4 10

9 3 1 6 8

as it shows in the diagram and numbers posted by me and RedVengeAPX:
starting from the bottom center of the head torque bolt 1 to ~25ft/lbs, then 2 which is just above 1, then bolt 3 which is to the left of bolt one etc.

Then repeat that process torquing them to ~50ft/lbs in the same sequence as listed above

Then repeat once more torquing them to 80ft/lbs in the same sequence as listed above

Then they recommend to retorque them to 80ft/lbs after 250Miles and 500 Miles, once again following the torquing sequence shown above.

The torque amount is for 7bolt blocks however seeing as you have a 6 bolt the torque spec may very well be 30-60-90 where I say 25-50-80 just replace with 30-60-90

2 more jobs that are recommended for these are the 2 oil port mods outlined by BogusSVO
here are the links
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341028-4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/341885-oil-port-mod-2-4g63t.html

The first link is helpful for both 1g and 2g heads. The second is beneficial for 1g heads due to the fact that the ARP studs for 1g's are apparently slightly wider than OEM and can cause a slight blockage IIRC.

One more suggestion that has saved my a$$ in many occasions no matter what the repair; Research, Research, Research, Read, Read, Read. Doing that helps you prepare as much as possible for a job that you have never done before. It helps you understand what you will be doing and not mess up as easily.

Go to VFAQ and suck up as much info as you can from it, it's one of our members' best resource for information along with the technical archives on this site.

I'm sorry about the giant post. It was the best way I could convey the steps

One request I have for you is to click the "tag this post as helpful" on the bottom on the posts for both me and RedVengeAPX

 

[gofer]

why cant there just be a set sequence and torque spec?

There actually is, Mitsubishi wrote it up actually and these are what you should check before you log onto tuners to find the info. There are a lot of posts around here that might not have the info necessary or be 100% accurate but you can count on the service manuals. Download them, they're worth their weight in gold...

• 2g Technical Manual
• 2g ('95-'96) Engine, Chassis & Body & 2g ('97-'99) Engine, Chassis & Body
• 2g ('95-'96) Electrical & 2g ('97-'99) Electrical

 

[2GEEZEY]

thanks so much, sorry for the confusion, but I got the head on amd everything done correctly. just have to time it now.
and thanks gofer for the links, I havnt seen those before. I was using moror all data at school because we have that in autos at my high school.