Best Setup for the RoadRace?

[toshi128]

I currently have the following mods:
Big16G clipped, 660cc's, holley 255 FP, SAFCII, Injen intake, HKS dragger exhaust, Greddy big FMIC, Eiback prokit springs, KYB AGX shocks, and tower bar, and rear upper strut bar. planning to get sway bars, etc...

1. My car tends to run warm/hot with the FMIC on... and I want to hear people's opinions. Do you think I should change back to SMIC? or drill holes or cut a piece out of my front bumper to send more air to the radiator?

2. How about suspension wise? What are your recommandations of better shocks and springs combinations?

3. How about my SAFCII set up??? It is more set for drag racing at this moment, and my EGT climbs up pretty quickly, since I use higher RPM all the time while driving through mountain roads. What do you think about this??

Thanks in advance.

 

[2-0turbo]

Originally posted by toshi128
I currently have the following mods:
Big16G clipped, 660cc's, holley 255 FP, SAFCII, Injen intake, HKS dragger exhaust, Greddy big FMIC, Eiback prokit springs, KYB AGX shocks, and tower bar, and rear upper strut bar. planning to get sway bars, etc...

1. My car tends to run warm/hot with the FMIC on... and I want to hear people's opinions. Do you think I should change back to SMIC? or drill holes or cut a piece out of my front bumper to send more air to the radiator?

2. How about suspension wise? What are your recommandations of better shocks and springs combinations?

3. How about my SAFCII set up??? It is more set for drag racing at this moment, and my EGT climbs up pretty quickly, since I use higher RPM all the time while driving through mountain roads. What do you think about this??

Thanks in advance.

Engine seems good.

1. This is a problem. Even RRE has problems with this and to my knowledge, none of their guys runs FMIC's for this reason. I am doing an air/water setup for this reason.

2. I use DSS CO kit, AGX shocks (AGX sucks, BTW) and RM Racing rear bar, ES bushings all around. I'm pretty happy with my setup. YMMV.

3. Track use will require more fuel that 1/4 mile pulls. On a ported 14B with stock SMIC and 450's, my 450's were maxed out at 13 PSI. Going to 100% duty cycle down the straights I still had to short-shift 4th and go to 5th to try and keep EGT's from pegging.

 

[toshi128]

1. This is a problem. Even RRE has problems with this and to my knowledge, none of their guys runs FMIC's for this reason. I am doing an air/water setup for this reason.


Where did you get the air/water I/C? Is it still streetable with that I/C?? since this is my daily (not so daily) driver/commuter, so i want this to be streetable, and prefer to be street legal. I definately want more information on the air/water I/C.


2. I use DSS CO kit, AGX shocks (AGX sucks, BTW) and RM Racing rear bar, ES bushings all around. I'm pretty happy with my setup. YMMV.


What does YMMV mean? I do not like my AGX KYB shocks... or the combination of Eibach pro kit springs and the shocks... It is too rough for me... I have my shocks set at 1 in the front and 2 in the rear. What is your set up like?


3. Track use will require more fuel that 1/4 mile pulls. On a ported 14B with stock SMIC and 450's, my 450's were maxed out at 13 PSI. Going to 100% duty cycle down the straights I still had to short-shift 4th and go to 5th to try and keep EGT's from pegging. [/B][/QUOTE]


So basically, you can't gas it all the way on the 3rd gear, so that's why you shift to 4th or 5th? but then you don't benefit of speed at the same time, especially for me, since i have a bigger turbo and i want to benefit from it as well. I was thinking about getting a dual stage boost controller, either MBC or EBC, so i can set lower boost for the mountain drive.

 

[NDgsx]

1. Cut out the black portion of the bumper above the opening, that opens up a lot of airflow. Make ducting between the IC and radiator, that way all air that flows through the ic HAS to go through the radiator. You can use sheets of aluminum, plastic, etc.. this is a home depot project, get creative.
Look at the bottom of the front of new GM vehichles (quite a few of their cars) and notice that small plastic air dam. This creates a low pressure area behind your radiator and helps pull air through. Another home depot job.

2. You guys are doing an apples to oranges comparision, he has a 2G. Personally I would get JIC coilovers from RRE and a set of RM sway bars.

3. Monitor your REAL water temps (the stock gauge is worthless you can be at 230 degrees and the needle on the stocker is still up halfway) and knock (well timing just timing since it's a 2G). If your coolant temps stay in check and you are not getting knock then you're all good. You have to be very careful with knock on a road course, remember you are at WOT with a lot of thermal stress on the engine for about a half hour straigth. This is a hell of a lot harder than just a 12 second blast followed by a cool down.
I just run my car the same as I would on pumpgas, but add about 7 gallons of VP C16.

 

[2-0turbo]

Originally posted by toshi128
Where did you get the air/water I/C? Is it still streetable with that I/C?? since this is my daily (not so daily) driver/commuter, so i want this to be streetable, and prefer to be street legal. I definately want more information on the air/water I/C.

What does YMMV mean? I do not like my AGX KYB shocks... or the combination of Eibach pro kit springs and the shocks... It is too rough for me... I have my shocks set at 1 in the front and 2 in the rear. What is your set up like?

So basically, you can't gas it all the way on the 3rd gear, so that's why you shift to 4th or 5th? but then you don't benefit of speed at the same time, especially for me, since i have a bigger turbo and i want to benefit from it as well. I was thinking about getting a dual stage boost controller, either MBC or EBC, so i can set lower boost for the mountain drive.

Well, I'm still working on the air/water intercooler. I don't know of anyone that sells a system off the shelf. Spearco sells assemblies, but you would have to put together the pump, reservoir, piping, etc. I think it will be better for the street. It's only deficit might be road courses where I'm putting a lot of heat into my water and cannot reject it to the atmosphere quick enough.

YMMV=your mileage may vary. I don't like my AGX either. I am running 400F/350R springs, AGX on 2 in the front, 1 in the rear. Yes, it is too harsh. AGX's have too much compression damping. When you turn that knob, it increases the compression and rebound damping. You really only want to increase the rebound, but these are cheap shocks.

I can gas it all the way in the 3rd gear. I would start get alarms on my EGT's at the top of 4th gear. Instead of stretching 4th so far, I'd shift at about 5-6K and then go to fifth gear. I ended up finishing the straights at about 120-125MPH at VIR. I had to keep turning my boost down during the course of the weekend to try and control my EGT's. I started with 16 lbs. and it felt great! I was able to pull a bit on the V8's down the straights. Later, I dropped back to 12-13 and started adding more fuel to keep things cooled down.

 

[dsm_illicious]

Koni Yellow & H&R Race = decent stiff setup. KYBs are also good if you don't wanna spend as much. But if you don't mind go with the A'Pexi N1 kit, they gotta hugeass piston, had them in my itr, before it got stolen =(

 

[toshi128]

Off topic: ya... what's up with Honda's being stolen man? i used to own a 2000 SI, and got broken into, all that was stolen was my stock valve cover and stock spark plug wires.... two of my friend's Si got stolen... totaled... GSR got stolen... etc... so much BS with those thieves...

How much does H&R race springs lower?

 

[toshi128]

I forgot to add: I have the fluidyne Radiator, two spal fans in the stock locatoin... i think they're sizes are 10's and 8's... or 12's and 10's, forgot... then i have another one in front of my A/C condensor for the long drive as well... but my car still runs warm...

I'll try making the air duct between my I/C and radiator tho...

 

[RipperXX]

Well although some ppl have good sudjestions about the ducting wouldn't just puting some high flowing electric fans behind the rad and a switch inside to turn them on and off be easier?

Redline water wetter of corse.. and what about a lower than stock thermostat

 

[toshi128]

and i think there's a different reason to put a fan or a duct, because so far i only have one fan on the right side... so for the left side part... it's still nice to make a metal/plastic duct... and maybe it's about time for me to clean my FMIC... so more air will go through...

 

[swordfish]

Get a good radiator. That will also help along with the suggestions Nick made.

jeff

 

[NDgsx]

Originally posted by toshi128
I already talked with many dsmtuner members on another thread about the redline water wetter, they said it doesn't work. and it's a POS... not to offend you.. i might try it...

Got a link?

 

[Unreal]

Roadrace likes water wetter. If you want a road race car, call road race.

Stoptech brakes, JIC coilovers, and have it all setup by RRE. Good as it gets in a DSM.

 

[toshi128]

I have the fluidyne radiator and fans RRE recommanded me to get... However, my car still runs warm... say... driving at 90 mph constantly with A/C on... my water temp goes up to about... 220, or 230... depending on the outside temp as well.

As far as mountain drives, my temp went up to about 220, and i slowed down.

I got the temp readings from my pocketlogger with the logger cable.

 

[NDgsx]

Another coolant tip, don't run 50/50 if you don't need to. In the summer I run 10% antifreeze, 90%water, and one bottle of water wetter. Water transfers heat much better than antifreeze.
This does lower the boiling point of your coolant mixture though. The easiest way to counteract this is to get a higher pressure thermostat cap (greddy, blitz, etc.. most are 18-20psi). Make sure all your hoses are new though, you'll quickly blow old ones.
Oh one more thing, for the little oil cooler and turbo lines don't use normal worm gear hose clamps, they don't put much pressure on the hose and you can blow them off with the higher pressure. Go into napa and ask for "3/8" fuel injection clamps". They look pretty much like T bolt clamps.

 

[AWDGSX415]

Toshi128 something else to look for is make sure your not leaking any coolant. I had a slow leak in my lower radiator hose. I noticed my temp rise slowly from day to day. Check that out too.

R.

 

[toshi128]

Originally posted by AWDGSX415
Toshi128 something else to look for is make sure your not leaking any coolant. I had a slow leak in my lower radiator hose. I noticed my temp rise slowly from day to day. Check that out too.

R.

Thanks, but my car isn't leaking any coolant anywhere.
So, I'll probably do the followings, duct from I/C to radiator, drilling holes or cutting a piece from my front bumper for the air to go through, and the water/coolant mixture...

 

[toshi128]

NDgsx: I want to try less coolant and more water mixture, what do you think is the optimal? for a climate such as Santa Cruz, CA, where it is next ocean, gets steamy hot in the summer and also wet cold during this season... i do not think it reaches as nearly as the freezing temp for the water... So, probably try 20-30% coolant and the rest with water, plus a bottle of water wetter? Can you give me your opinion on this?

 

[NDgsx]

I'd run 20/80, does it even get bellow 40 degrees down there? Just run some antifreeze to help avoid corrosion.

 

[2-0turbo]

Originally posted by NDgsx
I'd run 20/80, does it even get bellow 40 degrees down there? Just run some antifreeze to help avoid corrosion.

And lubricate water pump seals too.

 

[toshi128]

and... it's better to run distilled water from some hardware store right??? since it's cleaner than normal tap water...

 

[NDgsx]

Yes

 

[strykersgsx]

I have never really experimented with coolent mixture. But, if I where you I would really play with the mixture. Because, you have to remember that coolent only works under pressure. So if you use more water the pressure is going to go up, therefore increasing the effectiveness of the coolent. It would be a really cool experiment to find the perfect coolent mixture. Sorry, about the lack of experiance with delusion of coolent, but from working at Jiffy Lube I just know way to much about coolent.