engine rebuild components

[BryanK]

Hello, I've got a '95 gsx, completely stock. For some reason or another, my gsx is slower than a friends gsx, both same year, completely stock, but his has quite a bit less mileage than mine (40K vs. 100K). I know its not driving ability, because I've turned out quicker times in his car than he has. I'm thinking my engine is just getting tired from the mileage, so I'm looking at a complete engine rebuild. First, what are the best aftermarket parts as far as internals go. I know the most popular is Crower rods with JE pistons, but are there any others out there? Second, should I rebore my engine, say .020 over? Third, are there really any benefits from a knife edged crank? I know lightening up the rotating assembly will do nothing but good things, but should I dish out the extra cash for one, and where can I even find them? Fourth, should I swap to a 1G head and replace both cams (if so, which cams should I go with). I know 1G heads flow better on the exhaust side, but should I just have my heads ported and whatnot. Fifth, later on as $$ permits, I'm planning on a turbo upgrade, and was thinking about a super 16G, or a dual ball bearing turbo.... I know how the conventional 16G works, but am pretty ignorant as to how a ball bearing turbo works. What are the pro/cons of going with either one? I'm wanting to run around 25 psi max, should I change my compression ratio to compensate for that much forced induction? (Obviously I'm planning on the supporting mods, like full 3" thermal R&D exhaust from turbo back, K&N filter + cold air box, Apex'i front mount w/ all new intercooler piping, HKS SSQV BOV, HKS type 1 turbo timer... yada yada yada). I really want to protect my investment... I know the turbo timer is going to allow the turbo to cool down, but I also know that most of all engine wear occurs at start up. I had a chevelle that would start circulating oil 5 seconds before start up as a means for keeping the engine more durable. Has anyone heard of anyone doing this on an eclipse? Would it even be a worthwhile mod, as these eclipses have much more refined engines than my old '70 chevelle. Last, I'd like to do all this work on my own, but realistically I'm pretty sure I'll have to have someone else do the work. How much do you figure the labor would run me at a good shop? I'm sorry for such a long post, but I honestly searched through exhisting posts for quite some time and couldn't find the answers to my questions. Thanks for all your time.
Bryan

 

[larryd]

sorry if I missed anyting but I stopped reading half way through.. dont worry about rebuilding your engine.. you rebuild it if it blows up.. start modding and your car will be faster..

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/2gupgradepath.htm

 

[cmc]

Originally posted by larryd
you rebuild it if it blows up
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/2gupgradepath.htm

"If you build it they will come"

 

[NDgsx]

Do compression on leakdown tests on both your car and your friends. Then ask about mods, unless you have crankwalk or low compression then the engine isn't your problem.

Also go to dsm.org and vfaq.com, do all the tune up type things they list. Oh and it will take a few times for the MPCC process to work, at 100k you have a lot of carbon the top of the pistons.

 

[BryanK]

can anyone answer my question about the difference between the ball bearing and standard 16G turbo? I've been told that MCCC can be harmful to your engine, and burn your o-rings. A friend that builds engines for sprint cars (closest thing to high performance shop as it gets in Iowa) told me that that stuff is basically the same stuff that alcohol funny cars run on, and that it wouldn't be a great idea. Anyone ever know of someone having a bad result from this?
Thanks,
Bryan

 

[NDgsx]

The 16G killer is an IHI turbo. It is an ok turbo, but not even close to being worth what they charge for it. The shaft is supported by a ball bearing instead of riding on a film of oil like a standard turbo. I am not sure exactly what the cartridge is like on the IHI turbos.
Ball bearing cartridges aren't all created equal. For example the crap that turblontetics sells as a "ball bearing" cartridge only has one ball bearing. The other is a standard bearing. It does not support the thrust loads very well and they wear out quick. Their effect on spoolup is negligable.
If you want a ball bearing turbo get a GT30xx from garret. They use a true ball bearing setup. They are downright amazing. A local shop put dual HKS GT2835 (thinks that what they were) on their R33 skyline. They keep on spinning for 30 seconds after the engine has been shut off!

How much power do you want to make? What is your focus with the car?

What o-rings is your friend talking about? Did he mean piston rings? Yes the mccc will strip oil off the cylinder walls. It isn't a huge issue with our engine. We have oil squiters spraying the bottom of the pistons. There are holes drilled through the oil expander ring area to get oil directly onto the cylinder walls. After you start it up rev the engine a few times to get some oil up there.
I did the MCCC on the engine in my old 91. When I tore it down the cross hatching on the cylinder walls still looked good.

 

[BryanK]

Thanks for the explanation about the ball bearing turbos.... pretty sure I have a good idea about what you're talking about. Right now I'm looking to make it a daily driven, low to mid 11 second car that will last me through college (so durability is a big issue). I just got more scholarship $$ than I expected, so the $$ I was saving for college I can now devote to my car. All my friend knows (and all I am really knowledgable about) are Chevy 350's.... V8's, so he is accustomed to some pretty primitive engines when compared to the 4G63.

 

[NDgsx]

I'd go for a 20g (my personal preferance) or an FP green. Both are proven to get you there.

Do make sure you measure the crank thrust play before modding though.

 

[swordfish]

I tried to read the original post but it hurt my eyes. Please try some paragraphs.

jeff

 

[BryanK]

Sorry Swordfish..... its too late to edit it now though.
I was really leaning more towards a good ball bearing turbo.... like the GT30xx you mentioned or other like turbo because I've been told ball bearing turbo's..... the better designed ones anyways..... will last longer, hold boost better and spool up quicker, and are more durable?? Can anyone confirm? Could you give me a few links with more info on the FP Green and the GT30xx??
Thanks for the help
Bryan

 

[NDgsx]

They will last longer, that is one of the things they were designed for. Normal turbos can last well past 100k though.
Considering you are in college I would stick to the tried and true parts, plus they are MUCH cheaper.

http://www.forcedperformance.net/dsm_turbo_green.htm
http://www.dsmtimes.org/