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Head work, valvetrain, cams, etc. plz help

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BoostinAWD

Supporting Member
818
17
Feb 14, 2002
Layton, Utah
Ok I currently have my head, flywheel, 1g big rods, and 2g pistons sitting in the machine shop.

They tore the head apart to inspect everything. The head is not warped and only needs a new set of exhaust valve guides, and valve seals.
They quoted me $650 total for all work to be done. Which is:

Resurface the head
Valve Job
New Exhaust valve guides
Upper gasket set
Machine the rods to fit the pistons
Press the rods on to the pistons
Resurface my flywheel to a .610 step height
Retap 2 of my broken exhaust studs
Cleaning of the head
Fitting the valves and pressure testing to make sure they seal properly
And reassembly.


Well heres the deal I went ahead and purchased a set of used valves on ebay, because mine looked like ####. They are stock valves that have been cleaned, resurfaced, and cut. Not sure what that meant but they looked good so I figured what the heck and bought them.
here are some pics:
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I haven't actually received these yet, they are being shipped. But will these be good to use?
I am NOT going to use the stock cams. I want a set of HKS 272's but they seem to be non existent anymore. And they only places that seem to have them want $600. I want to maybe eventually bump my rev higher.

Should I get a set of crower springs and retainers or are my stockers fine? This is basically what got me thinking well if I get hks 272s why not get an upgraded valve train, and get some oversized valves while I'm at it. But I am sick of tired of waiting, waiting, and waiting. My car hasnt ran since august. I am not made of money. And the bill to be from my machine shop it a huge chunk of change for me. My next turbo is going to an L2R no doubt. But it's gonna have to wait. I still need to finish my fmic, get an act2600, prothane motor mounts, remove the balance shafts, etc, etc. DAMN this car :(

I've spent the past 3 hours going through dsmtalk and dsmtuners. And all the post seem to lead me nowhere.

Somebody give me some insight please.
I'm all ears tell me what to do... :thumb:
 
$650 for all that sounds about right. as far as valve springs go most would recommend at least new valve spring, retainers, and keepers. the cam manufacturer should have a correct spring recommendation with the kit. as far as over sized valves, there are people running in the 11's with untouched heads so save your money and just use stock valves.the valves being cut means that they have had the angles on the valve head recut to fit the valve seats.
hope that helps a little.
 
Well I just gave the machine shop a go-ahead to start on everything. They said that I would be better off just using the valves I already had in the head. And they would beadblast them, and cut them. etc.
3 angle valve job to go along with it.

So now that leaves me with a set of good valves. The stupid things I do :mad: If anyones interested in them shoot me a pm.

Now on whether or not to upgrade my springs and retainers. Ugh springs and cams alone will cost me another $900
 
factory cams are pretty good for most performance people and there are alot people that question using aftermarket cams for anything but all out drag cars.that is alot of cash to throw down on a couple of bump sticks. get a mild port and polish job while the heads off and that will increase the performance a bit, and just crank up the boost a couple of lbs...
 
p.s. there are a couple of more milder grinds that you can use factory spring and what not with but they are just as much as the bigger grind. i guest it really just depends on what you are looking for and what you can afford to do.
 
You don't have to upgrade the cams right now. They are pretty easy to swap with the head on the car. Plus the stock springs are pretty good at the stock rev limit. If you plan on upping the rev limit then definately get stronger springs and titanium retainers.
 
I dont understand your desire for the ability to rev the car over the stock limit? Unless you are running a very beefy turbo, have a sheet metal intake manifold, alot of boost, and alot of other misc junk that Ive managed to build up over time its pointless.

You will make plenty of power up to the stock redline and save yourself alot of $$ as well. In regards to cams you dont need to purchase them right now because you will be throwing your $$ away. Save cams until you have everything else done and taken care of.
 
So how difficult is it to install springs and retainers with the head in?
But crower springs and retainers are only $209 which isnt bad at all. So I will go ahead and put them in now.

I "guess" I'll hold off on cams until my motor is broken in.
Sheetmetal, L2R, etc. Will all be in by summer. OMG

oh btw my rev limiter is only 7k rpms not 7.5. So was my cousins 90 fwd. Not that I ever rev that high because of my pos 90 cams. I tried my last time at the track lost 3mph in the 1/4, compared to shifting into 4th earlier.

Thanks for the help :thumb:
 
I think you shoudl do everything to the head your going to do except the cams Chance. I woudl like to see the car drive before I grow old and die;) Cams shoudl be fine until you really feel you need them. Just get yo shite together so I can see this bad boy....

crower valve train w/HKS cams:D
 

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you can use the web street cams i think its 272 intake and 256 exhaust with the stock valvetrain and there only about $400. i've been using them with a big 16g and its been a pretty noticable increase in power on the top end. but also i met this guy this week who has buschurs rwd talon and he said he ran 10's with an awd 1g with a stock head but he also had a 20g and so on. but like i said the web street cams are pretty good, and they save you money to. i know how it is to be on a budget.
 
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