The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

stroker ideas...

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

out there

20+ Year Contributor
1,276
2
Nov 8, 2002
Fargo, North Dakota
i've been thinking about going for the stroker mod as one of the first things i do to my engine... but i'm a little unclear about what i'd need to do it.
k&n w/out aircan (rest will be done after summer arrives and car comes out of storage)
3" turbo-back, no cat, o2 elim
boost controller
high-flowing fuel pump (supra, skyline or 300z, can't decide...)
evo7 ported exh manifold
with these things done already, what else would i need before diving into the whole stroker thing? i'd need some sort of fuel control wouldn't i? any other items that are absolutely necessary?

ok, assuming i'm prepared to increase the displacement... what do i need for the stroker project? i would like to know the individual items because i think i can get them cheaper than the kit.
4g64 crank is a must, but wouldn't it be cheaper to get my 90 rods machined to fit the crank? aside from the installation of the new crank, pistons, and rods... is anything else needed??
i realize a stronger clutch will be necessary, but that will just have to wait until the stock one is lifeless ;)

all input is welcome, i'll even tell you what i figure it out to cost if i can get around buying a kit

please don't hesitate to pm me with anything you think i should know about this project, i welcome all (unbiased, necessary, well-thought out) criticism.
 
ok, i've been talking to a couple of people, and i now know why different rods are necessary, and pistons are a given. why do companies charge so much for different rods, pistons and a crankshaft? the rods and pistons (without machining) wouldn't cost more than 1200 (being very generous), and the crankshaft from a 6bolt 4g64 is less than 250. because no one else has repsonded yet to tell me that some sort of fuel management is necessary... i'm just going to assume an afc will be sufficient.

please? some insight would be appreciated
 
Having a stroker engine will shorten your engine life, because of the rod angles I believe.

Mike from DSS also recommended not using stroker engines for road racing because it would not be reliable enough to run for long periods of time.

But in any case, I believe FFWD and Magnus have stroker kits that you can buy eith everything you need.
 
hes right. the angles are different on the rods and the life of the motor will not be as good. you can use the big rods though but i would go with a set of eagles forged because its gonna be about the same to machine the big rods.
 
can someone please explain to me in little more detial about the rod angle problem?

I understand that the piston has to travel more hence shorter life period, but how come the stock 4g64 lasts forever?
 
call magnus and talk to marco. he will tell you pretty much every thing you need to know. a regular rod will work, but not really well. you SHOULD get a decent set of after market rods. you can the rods and pistons as a set. buying them that way you can get the wrist pin in the piston moved and the rod lengthaned or shortened to fix that rad angle problem. to try and explain it is over my head. it seems that spending the extra 3-400 on a better set of light weight rods has helped the cranks survive a little longer. thats what they have found out at magnus. I personaly am haveing my assembled next week. paulter rods and ross pistons. I am using the 4g64 block and crank with the 4g63 head. the block had to be clearenced a little for those rods but I was assured that the reduction in weight for those rods would be worth it. the crowers will fit with but they are heavier. I'll let you know how it goes.
 
i think i might call up magnus and see what i can find out... i'm just hoping that a 4g64 block isn't necessary... because i can get forged (i think) pistons, high-quality rods, and a crankshaft from checker auto at a discount. if that's all i need to do this, then i'm definitely going to go for it. not only that, but my friend is building up a chevy 305 to a 383, and i can always ask him for advice or help.
 
You can get a 2.3L kit, but you'll need a 4g64 block for the extra .1L Don't forget to ask them about daily drivability and engine lifetime.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top