will this end it?

[superboost]

im about to buy a 95 GSX and i was wondering if the FFWD Connection the Butcher Crank would fix the crank walk issues. i fig. thaat it would but jsut want to get some other peoples opp. and i also believe that this would work with a AWD eclipse and a FWD. right?


now if those statements are true then what pistons and rods would work bet with that crank?


and last but not least but cams / vavles adn valve spring do ou thing would work best as well?

 

[crashed97tsi]

the stock block is good for 400 hp. I would get the exhaust, intake, intercooler, turbo, all that fun stuff before even thinking about upgrading internals. And to answer your question, people have tried to just replace the crank and had the engine walk again within 10k miles. Only surefire way to get rid of it is to put in a 6 bolt.

I know the hks cams are real popular, I think its 264 intake, 272 exhaust. I'm not sure on valves, but a popular piston/rod combo is 1g rods with 95 pistons. BTW did you mean a burschur crank?


Check out this link http://www.dsmtuners.com/tuning-guide/

 

[superboost]

yes i ment teh bushur crank


that wont get rid of CW for good?


it says in part profile that its a stronger crank and lighter

 

[superboost]

wair i did mean the butcher crank... on the performance parts list of this site it has the crank in it

 

[FastRthenU]

From what i have read, if you want to get rid of crankwalk for good. Either put in 1g oil squirters. Or block you stock ones. If your wondering why im sayin this. Go to the magnus Website, and read up on the theory. It makes the most sense i ahve heard so far.

 

[superboost]

i have been to that site.... but i still believ that cw is from the clutch being to "sporty" for these crapy mitsu cranks... i mean if mitsu would of jsut made a stronger crank tehn we wouldnt have to talk about this crap. so has any one swaped this crank into there engine?

and if so how has it worked or hw did it work for u?

 

[nine5raptor]

it isn't the weakness of the crank, nor is it the oil squirters. It is weak thrust bearings and people standing on their clutches with the car running-neutral is there for a reason, use it.

 

[crashed97tsi]

I agre with the weak thrust bearings. The point i'm trying to make is if you have a 7 bolt, you will always have a chance of CW. If you just replace the crank on a block that has walked, the chance is in the 90's that it will walk again. There are tons of theories about why it walks, I think the magnus one was found not to wrok because he tried it on a few cars and it didn't help. The one that i think makes the most sense was Noslaser's theory. I forget what it was, But it had somethin to do with the 7 bolt blocks not having dowel pins or somethingalong those lines.

The only proven way so far to get rid of CW is to drop in a six bolt

 

[nine5raptor]

tru dat!

 

[FastRthenU]

I would have to agree with magnus on this one. I think it has to do with the crappy oil squirters, and were there position. The only differance in the blocks really are the squirters, and were they draw oil from.

It makes complete sense that it is the oil squirters. Because they get oil supply from the crank and thrust bearings. Go back and read it again. i think it the cause for sure.

 

[Ikestaa]

I am looking at a 2G Tsi (would go 1G but I want something with fairly low miles). Can you just pull the squirters out or are they threaded? Also, to block them, if they are not thread, should you tap threads and just install bolts into the holes?

 

[BoostinAWD]

It's not the thrust bearings, its the damn blocks. They are weak. So when you torque the head on it basically warps the block. Thus leaving everything else out of spec. If everything in the crank area isn't lined up perfectly it will walk.

 

[Ikestaa]

I don't mean to be an ass, but can you name any changes in processes or alloys used in the block.

 

[BoostinAWD]

They have less nickel content.. Quality control, heat treating (non existent) on 2g's.. Little things like those.

Why do you think they use torque plates so you can simulate when the head is torqued on. That way when you get the cylinders honed and the motor assembled everything is true with all that extra stress being placed on the block.

Basically what I'm saying is when the head it torqued on it stresses the block enough to misalign the crank bearings or thrust bearings just enough to cause them to eat away at their journals, therefore causing crankwalk. I think NosLaser had a post about this way back when. On how they tried to resolve this problem.

If I remember correctly they installed the head withouth the crank. Once it was torqued to spec they installed the crank, bearings, and torqued the gurdle, etc. So that everything was at perfect specs. Which may very well work only time will tell on their test car.

Just my .02 I'm just going off the top of my head if you'd like you can search for this article.....

Enough trying to explain for me..

 

[turbotalon92]

You guys shouldn't spit out theories, unless you understand them completely. How can you believe in one theory more than another, and not even know what the other is?

No one knows for sure what causes crank walk, or it would be a thing of the past.

I am not trying to be an ass either

 

[BoostinAWD]

Better to have an understanding as to how this problem could be solved.

Seems fairly logical to me, install a crank in a 7bolt and torque the head on. I am willing to bet the clearances will no longer be the same. It may be off by .0001 of an inch. But like I said things need to be perfect or you'll get abnormal wear. And walla things might start moving around when they shouldnt be.

Don't worry about being an ass no offense taken

 

[Ikestaa]

Damn, I was planning on selling my VR4 and getting something a little lighter. I figured the problem could be fixed by plugging the squirters, now I am not sure.

 

[fwd4g63]

Originally posted by Ikestaa
Damn, I was planning on selling my VR4 and getting something a little lighter. I figured the problem could be fixed by plugging the squirters, now I am not sure.

Talk with Magnus, I don't believe they have had any problems with the motors they have built with 1g oil squirters installed. Don't give up yet, keep trying new stuff and good luck. Not saying that is the answer, but it looks promising.

I thought a torque plate was used just to simulate a head on the block for boring the cylinders. That way you could get closer tolerances for forged pistons? I didn't realize that it would affect crank wear.