Installed Evo3 16G - Couple of questions

[oplix]

I just finished installing my MSI evo 3 16g yesterday and I had a few questions.

First thing my mods:
Intake
TurboXS Bov
Boost Gauge
Joe P IL Boost Controller
Accel 300+ 8mm wires w/ NGK BPR7ES plugs
MSI Evo 3 16G Turbo w/ (i think it's either 1g or Evo 3 manifold)

Ok Question 1:
I'm running 15 PSI and I blew my stock rubber LICP off the jpipe side two times yesterday. I'm on a budget so I have to stick with that pipe for now. I was wondering if and where I should buy some heavy duty hose clamps to maybe prevent it from blowing off.

Question 2:
When I first started the car up, I was circulating oil and coolant through the car and I noticed that there was smoke coming up underneath the intake manifold. I drove it around a little more and eventually my CEL came on. I don't know what the CEL is relavent to. Now when I got home, my neighbor came over to look at it and he is pretty experienced with cars. He said it might just be all the oil that happened to leak under side of the engine or maybe some coolant burning off.

The smoke doesn't really smell like anything..maybe like steam. I did use 1 gallon distilled water + redline waterwetter at first but then decided to add 50/50 to top it off.

Any ideas of what the smoke could be? I'm hoping it's not the turbo.

Additional information: I am boosting like i said at 15 psi and there doesn't seem to be any boost leaks (20-18 vac during startup).

Any suggestions would be great. Thank you.

 

[ndsti]

First of all where did you get this MSI turbo? A ture evo 3 16G is from MHI (Mitsubishi Heavy Industries). Keep running the car for a little bit to see if the problem goes away. As for the hose clamps go an buy some good T-bolt clamps, try to get away from hose clamps all they do is cut the hose while tightening them.

 

[housegsx]

I just finished installing my MSI evo 3 16g yesterday and I had a few questions.

Ok Question 1:
I'm running 15 PSI and I blew my stock rubber LICP off the jpipe side two times yesterday. I'm on a budget so I have to stick with that pipe for now. I was wondering if and where I should buy some heavy duty hose clamps to maybe prevent it from blowing off.

Additional information: I am boosting like i said at 15 psi and there doesn't seem to be any boost leaks (20-18 vac during startup).

Any suggestions would be great. Thank you.

Yes, get T bolt clamps. NAPA carries them.

Doesn't seem to be any boost leaks??? That's not good enough. Unless you do a proper boost leak test you do not know it isn't leaking. I've thought my setup was leak free before, but as soon as I pressurized, I had two severe IC pipe leaks and a leaking BOV.

As for the CEL, if you don't have dsmlink you need to take it to an auto parts store that does free diagnostic scanning. Autozone should still do this.

 

[oplix]

autozone does not do pre 96 cars. I'll look into the tbolt clamps, thanks. And I'm sorry I meant MHI not MSI.

 

[housegsx]

autozone does not do pre 96 cars. .

That's what they say but DSMs went OBD2 in 95, earlier than the required 1996. So it should still work. Have you made them try?

 

[oplix]

To be honest, no. I can't even find my diagnostic port for the life of me. I'll take a look again right now.

EDIT: Ok I think I found it. Is it the white port with like 20-24 pins?

 

[slipstream808]

I don't think so. It should be under the driver's dash above where your right shin would be.

 

[ndsti]

The port is black and looks like a trapazoid with rounded corners and is in the location mentioned above.

 

[jrohner]

My luck using regular hose clamps has been fine, and I run 20+psi all the time (I've had it to 31). Some hosed I did have to put 2 clamps on. If the pipe doesn't have a bead on the end to hold the hose on, you will need to take the pipe to a grinder and go around it a couple times to rough it up so the hose has something to grip to.

Do a boost leak test at a couple psi higher than the boost you will be running, then you know it will hold. It's a lot easier and more reliable to test your connections that way than just driving and seeing if it holds, plus you can't tell if the connections are sealed or not without a boost leak test.

Good luck. You will love that 16G when you have the proper supporting mods to run 20psi. I have 370AWHP at 23psi and I can't really feel a difference going down to 19-20psi, yet my car feels really slow at 15psi.

 

[spyderturbo007]

This is where your OBD-II port is on your car.

Although federal mandate required the switch to OBD-II in 1996, all 1995 DSM's were OBD-II compliant, so the scanner will work. Did you use any penetrating fluid when doing the installation? After I fixed some snapped exhaust manifold studs, mine smoked for a good 30 minutes while burning off all the penetrating fluid.

 

[whiteflash]

If you used any type of pb blaster, wd-40, etc., it will take some time to burn it off. perfectly normal.

 

[optional187]

have you tried the hairsray trick for the hose? spray a little hairspray then slip it on and clap it down...takes a few seconds to dry and will hopefully hold a little better.

i just finished my 16g install yesterday too, smoked for a little bit both out the exhaust and under the hood. its all gone now and it seems to be running good.

 

[oplix]

i went to autozone to do a diagnostic and it ran three codes.

p0125
p1400
p1500

i also noticed my idle does not go under 1100 rpms now.

any suggestions?

 

[93_tsi_fwd]

p0125 - Insufficient warm up time
Low engine coolant level
Leaking or stuck open thermostat
Faulty coolant temperature sensor

p1400 - intake manifold pressure differential sensor

p1500 - Generator FR Terminal Circuit Malfunction (alternator)

 

[oplix]

ya i know what the codes mean. I just don't understand why im getting those after doing a turbo upgrade. I can kinda see the coolant one because i flushed the radiator but the other two are confusing me. There is an open plug coming from my alternator but i dont ever remember unplugging it. Maybe that's what is causing it?

 

[slipstream808]

Check the alternator wires. There are a two of them I believe. One is bolted on and the other is a plug. Also, make sure the bolts are all tight. Could be an exhaust leak for all you know.

Voltage problems with my alternator caused ALL sorts of problems. To include the battery exploding. Make sure there are no loose wires.

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

you probably tweaked the sensors or shorted some while you were doing the install. clear as day thanks to those codes, investigate those components.

 

[Afroclipse]

I cut my alternator wire while putting my O2 heat shield on.