My Battery Relocation Project

[Notstock]

Why? To free up room in the engine bay for my future custom intercooler piping and catch cans.

I used the Summit battery relocation kit, part# - SUM-G1231-K, Rockford Fosgate AGU Fuse Block 1/0-2-4 AWG 4 outs, a 150A fuse block, and a JEGS 10305 - JEGS 125A Master Disconnect Switch.

If you have any questions on the install, PM me. Here are some pics. Running great and no problems to report. Just make sure you grind all the paint off where the grounds are. The place I mounted the battery box, you do not have to worry about pulling out the gas tank or worry about drilling into the cross member under the car. It basically straddles that cross member.

 

[Black_Bullet]

Nice battery box...

I relocated my battery to the rear right corner of the hatch.

 

[slipstream808]

Is that one pic of a distribution box?

 

[Notstock]

There are two pics of the distribution block in the engine bay where the battery used to be. The distribution block I bought is fuseable because I cut the big bulky fuse holder that used to connect to the battery. The fuse block by the battery is just a regular inline fuse holder.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Thats a nice set up, kinda want to do mine now.

 

[turboglenn]

Very clean install, I wish i was AWD so it would actually benefit me to move mine into the back and clean up the engine bay, but oh well.

How much did you spend in total or do you even care to add it up? I know somethings i do, I will just refuse to let myself know how much i spent total

 

[Boosted98gsx]

Very nice install.

 

[DSM Jeff]

Did you rewire the alternator too? Does the switch actually shut the car off while running?

 

[Jeff99GS]

Looks nice! What kind of battery are you going to use? If you use a standard Lead/ Acid battery you will need to add some vent tubes that go outside the car. There is Vapors that come off a stadard lead/acid type battery.

If you use an Optima or any other dry cell battery you don't have to worry about the vents.

 

[RedTalon95]

Wow, that looks really clean. It sure as hell is better than mine, that's for sure.

Nice work!

 

[RoasT BeeF]

If you care to get technical, the correct place to mount the battery is the right rear corner (passenger side) to equal out the corners. The heaviest part of the car is the left front. Of course this really only applies if you care about handling and having your car corner balanced - like me. If not, it doesnt really matter and the average person probably wont notice a bit of difference.

I used the same JEGS disconnect switch on mine but chose to ditch the "on off" back plate since I didnt like the way it looked. You did a good job. Nice work

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

Did you rewire the alternator too? Does the switch actually shut the car off while running?

Was wondering if you did this also. Due to the fact that if you do not the car will continue to run on it's own power made by the alternator. Test it!! If you didn't, you will have to in order for switch to do it's job correctly.

Basically what I did is take the two wires that come off the alternator and followed them to the fuse/relay box under the hood. Disconnect these wires and connect them to the positive cable going to your cut off switch.

If you did this. Disregard my advice.

BTW, get ready for your friends to start messing with you. My buddies would get out of their car at an intersection and flip my switch killing my car. On multiple occasions I would have to get out, flip it back on and restart my car. Then I had to reset all of my radio stations and settings. Good thing SAFC's retain their settings otherwise my buddies would have gotten a beat down!!

 

[Jeff99GS]

What is the point of the switch? seems like a Weird spot to put a kill switch. I have seen those switches used before, but usually I see them inside the car somewhere.

 

[Zmann42087]

Nice work man! I'm still trying to decide if I want to relocate my battery to the rear or just get the JM Fab. mini battery kit. Either way looks great.. nice job!

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

What is the point of the switch? seems like a Weird spot to put a kill switch. I have seen those switches used before, but usually I see them inside the car somewhere.

NHRA rules state that if your battery is remotely mounted there is to be a cut off switch mounted on the outside of the vehicle. If you were to be in an accident the likelyhood of a fire starting with a battery mounted in the rear are higher due to the fact that sparks can fly from the positive wire which can catch your fuel on fire. A cut off switch is to be placed on the positive side of the battery so that an official of the track can run up and flip the switch to kill all of your power it is to be clearly marked ON/OFF. Then the only sparks that could fly would be between your battery and the kill switch. That's why in videos that you see on You Tube where people wreck, you always hear people asking "Where is your car's kill switch?!?!"

The switch also acts as a circuit breaker I believe mine was rated at 75 amps. That way if there is a short in the + cable it would trip the switch killing power also.

 

[RoasT BeeF]

Or use this.

Painless 50105 - Painless Charging Shutdown Relays - JEGS

 

[DSM Jeff]

Basically what I did is take the two wires that come off the alternator and followed them to the fuse/relay box under the hood. Disconnect these wires and connect them to the positive cable going to your cut off switch.

If you did this. Disregard my advice.

I got a little crazy and rewired my charging system. I have a high strand 2 gauge coming off the alternator through an 80amp breaker (since the stock fuse is 80) back to the battery. From the battery I have another 2 gauge that runs to a Flaming River push/pull kill switch that is mounted where my hatch key cylinder was. 2 gauge from the switch back up to a Stinger fused distribution block. 1 lead from the power side goes back up to the fuse box on the old alternator side to power that and still actually use the fuse. Also I have a marrosso battery box mounted in the right rear with a yellow top inside. Car has been like this for 2 years.

Oh and if you don't want to mount the key to your reverse lens or any lens, those silver knob type switches actually fit behind the reverse light lens on a 1gb. Hell you can pull the key cylinder and use that hole. Theres a cover for the reverse lens and 2 screws, remove them, pull the lens towards the license plate. Remove the key cylinder, mount your switch. Then when you're driving and not racing, put the lens back in over the switch and no one will know.

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

This is how my white 1g's kill switch looked when I did it. I just used the key hole for the hatch. It was the perfect size and everything. Just had to trim some of the metal behind it.

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[Notstock]

Thanks for the compliments. I spent probably around 160 dollars. I found the fuse block and distribution block on ebay and got a good deal on them. I only ran one 1gauge wire to the rear and it works great. No heat, good voltage. I chose the Jegs switch because it was one of the cheapest and has the same functionality as an expensive one. The switch will kill all power to my car and is actually nice because if you want to work on your car, just flip the switch and power is gone. As others have stated, the switch is an NHRA requirement if you race at NHRA sanctioned events (as I will be) if you relocate the battery. You can also remove the handle on this switch if you use it as a DD and don't want people killing the power to your car. I don't autocross so I wasn't really concerned with mounting it in the back corner. I am using a standard lead/acid battery now with a vent tube. The vent tube is in the box and goes straight down out of the box.

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

Looks good!! Very neat and clean Install!!