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2g throttle body elbow on 1g

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asd_gst

15+ Year Contributor
936
1
Mar 31, 2008
port royal, South Carolina
i have look for this but didnt really find anything helpful, i want to put a 2g throttle body elbow on my 1g, but the 1g hoses from the bov hard pipe to the elbow is to small. so this is what i was thinking. get the hose off of a 2g from then bov to the elbow. but im not sure if it would work, if its the same shape, i know it would be bigger so i could just get hose clamps and tighten it down to the bov hard piping. so would this work?
 
Never.

The 1G BOV pipe is somewhere between 1-3/4" and 1-7/8", and the 2G elbow and rubber piping is around 2-1/4". There's no way you're clamping down 1/2" without blowing the connector off.

Why are you going to a 2G elbow if the rest of your piping is stock 1G anyways?
 
Depending on what size your piping is with the FMIC you plan on installing, you may want to lose the 2G elbow in favor of a 2-1/2" elbow.

2G elbows are 52mm to match the smaller 52mm 2G throttle body. 1G's have a 60mm throttle body, which better suits 2-1/2" intercooler piping.

If your intercooler piping is 2-1/2" and you run the 52mm 2G elbow, you'll have a bottleneck right at the throttle body.
 
Completely agree with Justin. Just installed a 1G TB, and there was no way in hell I was bolting on the 2G TB elbow (even if I did ever choose to port it). Didn't make any sense. Installed a 2.5 inch elbow instead. I'm much happier. :)
 
He!! if you're going to run custom intercooler piping, just install a 1g 4g63 n/t throttlebody. A 2.5" coupler will fit over it. You can tie in 2.5" intercooler piping there easily since there's a nice fat bead on the inlet. . .

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You'll have to pull the TB seals, flip them around after installing 50 cent o-rings. Clean and pain free. And the N/T TB bore matches. No need to port a small 2g elbow.
 

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Soon as I can find my digital camera software, I'll download some photos to my old thread. :D I knew my bitching, whining, and complaining wasn't completely off track. The new shit looks chweet, BTW. ;)
 
You know what I'm asking for
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. I wanna see pics of that sexy evo3 intake manifold and some results, baby!!!
 

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You know what I'm asking for
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. I wanna see pics of that sexy evo3 intake manifold and some results, baby!!!

+2 show me da pictures :D
 

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Actually had to put the "sexier" one in (with the badge). The others don't have the EGR hole filled-n-milled yet. I would have prefered the first one I bought to be in there. Much more OEM-esque. Ah well. I think next summer I'll put on the ol' 2G mani (and hopefully find a 2G TB) and do some before & after logs. Doesn't look like anyone else will.

Have to remember to take measurements of the runner mouth/throat (where plenum meets runner). Glanced inside the 2G and it looks much smaller.

Also trying to do some interesting photoshop stuff between the two manifolds. :shhh: Where is that f**king CD?

Sorry for the OT chitchat. Well, not really.
 
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WTF Am I seeing a giant H1C Holset drawing through a 1G MAS in this image? I was under the impression that a 1G MAS was maxxed out around 17psi with a Big 16G!
 

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You know what I'm asking for
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. I wanna see pics of that sexy evo3 intake manifold and some results, baby!!!

So far from the results for me from switching from a 2g elbow, tb, and intake to a 1g tb, ported elbow, and evo 3 manifold have not been that great. Boost holds a little longer afrs are a little RICHER (not happy about that). Have a few more things to do and I am hoping that something will show the difference between the two. If nothing works then it was atleast worth it to get rid of the map sensor and the EGR valve.
 

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WOW! running richer and holding boost longer definately suggests a LOSS in airflow.

yeah we aren't certain yet because there might be an intake leak. Won't affect the tune too much (map based standalone) but it for sure will hinder any gains that might be there. I am lead to believe that something is wrong because we swapped to a 1g throttle body and a different manifold that "should" work better. We fixed one small leak and managed to get back our AFR while maintaining a steadier boost pressure, so that suggest that something WAS wrong. Now I just need to determine if there is more wrong or not. I also honestly think that the 2g elbow might be holding us back. I did a very awesome port job, shiney and smooth with a very gradual taper but there is still that bottle neck at the bend. I did my best to open it up, but you just don't have enough metal there to play with.

Another reason that I think something is wrong is because I just put one on my fiance's car and that thing pulls nice and strong. Haven't went balls out yet because the motor has 140 miles on it but it still gets the job done before I have to let out because it starts to creep (I let out around 13lbs).
 
I also honestly think that the 2g elbow might be holding us back. I did a very awesome port job, shiney and smooth with a very gradual taper but there is still that bottle neck at the bend. I did my best to open it up, but you just don't have enough metal there to play with.
This is, in purity, the reason why I believe the n/t 4g63 1g TB is the best bolt-on TB. Not for what it is. But for what it can allow.
 
This is, in purity, the reason why I believe the n/t 4g63 1g TB is the best bolt-on TB. Not for what it is. But for what it can allow.

I agree with that. I ran one on my car and loved it. The coupler offers a leak free seal (less headache) and it has a nice size opening with a gradual taper. But this car is a 2g with a stock battery. There isn't any room for something like that.
 
dsm-onster said:
This is, in purity, the reason why I believe the n/t 4g63 1g TB is the best bolt-on TB. Not for what it is. But for what it can allow.







Even better than the Evo 8 TB? All you need is Link, and that's just a good idea all around.
 
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