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Bolt-on Tech Intake, exhaust, intake manifold, ignition, fuel system, cooling, etc - specific to 4G63 turbocharged DSMs.

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Old 05-15-2008, 11:05 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Lots of boost Leaks On Throttle body! Options? Opions?

Well I just did a boost leak and it seams the WHOLE throttle body leas from everywhere....

I just wonder what mods and what improvements I could make to it while its down getting rebuilt...

I want to strip it down to only what is NEEDED to control Idle and throttle, Possibly Make it bigger witch I understand can be done from Throttlebodys.com
Will this hurt me in the long run or be better overall? And Is it worth the Extra $$$ to do these mods or should I just go back with a stock rebuild.
How hard IS it to rebuild yourself?
Witch TB is best for a 1g 90 or the 91+ ones, Can they work both ways I have a 91...

I live in Oklahoma and although winters can be mild sometimes they get kinda bad but this car is NOT my daily driver so cold starting should not really be a big issue...
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Old 05-16-2008, 12:54 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I have a 90 and decided to convert to the 91- style basically for the ease of getting replacement parts. The 90's have a different ISC but use the same plug. The TPS uses a different plug and also mounts differently than the 90 style because the throttle shaft is also different. I sent my TB to throttlebodys.com for the rebuild and had it bored out at the same time. I am very satisfied with their service and price. As far as rebuilding it yourself, it can be done. I have rebuilt one before. It really isnt to bad. Really the only modification you can do to the TB other than boring is to block of the FIAV, which TBs.com can do for you as well.

Here is a pic of mine after I got it back from throttlebodys.com
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Old 05-16-2008, 11:51 AM   #3 (permalink)
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what pro vs. con of blocking off the FIAV?

I will deff send it out to be rebuilt, and modded, just for fun i may just rebuild one to stock.
anyone offer a gaskit/rebuild kit for them...
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Old 05-16-2008, 07:05 PM   #4 (permalink)
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2g FIAV Elmination/Block Off
This thread has some good info on reviews of fiav blockoff plates that should shed some light. The fiav is notoriously known for being a culprit of idle surge and many have had success eliminating it.
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Old 05-17-2008, 12:25 PM   #5 (permalink)
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How do you control idle without the ISC?
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Old 05-17-2008, 01:34 PM   #6 (permalink)
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They make FIAV bypass plates which retain the ISC; that's what I use personally. The only issue I've had with it is that sometimes the car will stall if you jump into neutral from too high of an RPM (usually above 2K), but my lightweight flywheel could also be to blame for that because it wasn't doing it as often before I upgraded the clutch.

Just make sure you silicone the surfaces or you'll have a sizeable boost leak since the rubber gasket is no longer sealing the lower portion of the TB.
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Old 05-17-2008, 02:30 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thx this is some good Info.... Im all about Eliminating any part of the stock Mitsu Electronics for reasons we all experience at one time or another....

What is required to Get rid of the ISC?
I have a MAFT, and a Apexi NEO, I would sell the Neo and go DSM link if it would do this...
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Old 05-17-2008, 02:40 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Without the ISC, you'll have nothing to automatically compensate idle RPMs for increased electrical load. If you don't mind running a higher idle than normal (probably 1200 to 1500 RPM) and holding the throttle open during warm up, then you probably won't miss the ISC. You can adjust the BISS to increase your idle as needed.
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Old 05-17-2008, 05:37 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Here's something I did on mine. I eliminated a bunch of the extra vacuum ports that were causing some minor boost leaks. I cut the bungs off, tapped the holes, and sealed them with screws.
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Old 05-18-2008, 12:14 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Avionixx View Post
Without the ISC, you'll have nothing to automatically compensate idle RPMs for increased electrical load. If you don't mind running a higher idle than normal (probably 1200 to 1500 RPM) and holding the throttle open during warm up, then you probably won't miss the ISC. You can adjust the BISS to increase your idle as needed.
What if I upgrade my electrical system, I would be doing this Ne way for the system requirements , when its all done ill have 3 Stinger Sp44 * 1600 Amp * batteries Stinger 250amp custom wound alt, and 2 Stinger 2 farad caps...

Does this mean I will get NO Idle surge from amp draw, I notice its is Electrical load related
just thought that it was changing because the IDLE was causing it to just changing duty cycles from injectors, advancing timing ect..basicly the motor was loading the electrical to keep the car at idle........With what I want to do i would be surprised if my Volt gauge ever went below 13.8....

Does the ISC need to stay plugged up though? just not installed....

Thx for the block off tip also... I will do that one..
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