boost creep... stock turbo + RRE downpipe

[BryanK]

I just got a new exhaust setup... its the RRE downpipe mated to a thermal catback. Its completely 3" from the flex section on, eliminating the cat, and 2.5 from the turbo to the flex section. I've got the stock t25 and have done nothing to it to increase boost (no MBC or solenoid removal). Do you think I'll see a lot of boost creep with this setup if I dont go ahead and port the O2 housing?
Thanks,
Bryan

 

[darthfoul]

You sould see boost creep. i had the same set up a while back, and i experienced boost creep/ spike. The boost gauge read 17 psi spike and held at 13-14. it was kind of inconsistant though. Just call up RRE or another company and get a manual boost controller and set yer boost to 14-15 psi max. I think a fuel pump re wire would be in order too.

 

[CHILAM]

i want to know how many bars is 14-15psi thanks

 

[2gTurboS]

1 bar = 14.7psi, I have read some others say its 14.9psi but you get the point.

 

[SD GST]

You will definately get creep.. I added an RSR downpipe and Catback at the same time. I didn't touch the boost controller at all, left it stock. The boost would hold at 13-14 psi, and then in 3rd gear would it would hold 13-14 around 4,000RPM and from 4k up, it would creep until it reached 18psi at around 6,000...

 

[BryanK]

But do Manual boost controllers even help at all? Or do you absolutely HAVE to port the O2 housing? I've even heard in some cases that porting doesn't work. What is the best, most sure method to stop the t25 from creeping with an aftermarket downpipe?
Thanks for the help,
Bryan

 

[SD GST]

I installed an RRE MBC and it stoped the boost creep all together. However, I have heard that installing an MBC normally does not do this. The best way is to port the O2 sensor.

 

[BryanK]

would an electronic boost controller make a difference?... as opposed to a manual.

 

[darthfoul]

I think either one would do the trick, but keep in mind that an Electronic Boost controller will be a lot more expensive. There are a few EBC that are good. Blitz makes one so does greddy. the range from 300- 450 bucks. where the manual couts no more than 90$ at MOST!!!!
dude, get a manual until you need to step it up with more boost and a bigger turbo AFTER support mods.

 

[BryanK]

Well the thing is, after you figure in the cost of a boost gauge, and the actual controller itself, you're right up there around the cost of a decent used EBC like and AVC-R, which has tons more features than a MBC+boost gauge will. Figure its about $100 for a good MBC, and then another $60 for the boost gauge... that puts you at $160, and I've seen used AVC-R's go for about $300. Yeah, thats twice the cost, but you also have a whole lot more features with the AVC-R, and you have one less gauge taking up space on your a-piller. I like having two boost settings, and being able to select gear or speed dependent boost values. Just a personal opinion I suppose...
Bryan

 

[darthfoul]

Thats tite the cool thing about making "DSM"'s or cars in general for that matter is the fact that you can take any path you want and add any extra doo dad. you are about due for a boost gauge anyway, so an avc-r is perfect, i was just thinking simple.
im using a manual boost contrller but i think, in the future that i want to get an avc-r later too.
anyway,good luck
james

 

[BryanK]

Any idea if ported 1G 02 housing will work for my application? I'm thinking not since there was a big difference between the 1G 14B and the 2G t25. Here's a link... I'm thinking about buying this guy's 02 housing but I don't know if it'll work on my car.
BryanK
http://www.gopartstrader.com/cgi-bi...ion=display_sub_list&session=3e26fccb4f8a956e

 

[TSiAWD91]

Figure its about $100 for a good MBC, and then another $60 for the boost gauge... that puts you at $160

ummm NO.hallman MBC is 50.autometer boost gauge is 45.thats UNDER 100.and yes the hallman is good.

 

[BryanK]

Yeah I guess I was thinking more of the turbo xs controller that has two adjustment knobs... the coarse and fine adjustments just to be able to really nail down what psi you're running without spikes. You're point only validates mine... that there are many different routes to go with choosing boost control (especially with the new JoeP E-MBC). And actually, since we're being picky about pricing, your basic autometer boost gauge does go for $60 (according to extreme's website, http://www.extrememotorsports.com/g2cat/bstgauge.htm ). Top that off with at least $20 for the gauge cup (again, according to extreme, http://www.extrememotorsports.com/g2cat/gaugecup.htm ) and you're at $80 + $50 = $130 which really isn't too far short of my earlier statement. Of course all these parts can be had off dsmtrader.com, but who cares, we're both right.
Anyways, anyone with anything helpful?
Thanks,
Bryan

 

[nine5raptor]

make your own mbc or $10 and buy a used boost guage for $15-$20 (very easily had for this amount)

 

[BryanK]

But will a manual boost controller stop boost creep? I don't care about pricing all this crap... that was a dumb argument that we were both right. Do I gotta step up to a ported O2 housing, step up the wastegate, install a MBC, or is it all/a combo of all three? Or hell do I just gotta bite the bullet and step up with the turbo?
Thanks,
Bryan

 

[LightningGSX]

Originally posted by 2gTurboS
1 bar = 14.7psi, I have read some others say its 14.9psi but you get the point.

Actually, a bar=14.50377