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Dirtiest cooling system ever! How do I deal with it (besides a flush)?

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Daveed

15+ Year Contributor
231
0
Feb 25, 2005
Olympia, Washington
Check out the water pump I just took off! The vehicles been sitting for 2 years. I've never seen one this bad. OMG
Seeing how much corrosion and sludge is in this part of the cooling system makes me a bit concerned about clogging the radiator and heater core as soon as I get this thing back together. :notgood:
Anyone got any ideas on how to deal with massive amounts of corrosion in the cooling system? Yah, a flush is obvious required but DANG! Is there anything else I can do to help minimize the clogging that is likely going to occur?:confused:

PS I have it up on jackstands in the garage right now doing a mini rebuild of the motor (head off etc) so I can't easily roll it outside yet.
 

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Finding the source of the problem is what is needed, not a way to decrease the possibility of clogging. Can you tell what that shit is? Actual corrosion or dirty oil or what? What does it feel/smell like?
 
Theres rust, then white corrosion in the pipe to the right (on the top), then that greenish black stuff in the bottom is a mystery right now to me.:confused:

As you can see the pump is new...well it was new and used for about 10 minutes two years ago. Then my new tensioner failed, the timing belt slipped, and the valves got bent. I got a little frustrated and parked it. It only had water in it so I drained the radiator to keep it from getting damaged...looks like I shoulda fixed it sooner but it was a toss up between parting and fixing it. I'm now motivated to build the motor and drive it.:dsm:
 
I would do a couple flushs of the whole system. Replace the pump, t-stat, temp. sensor, ect...

PS: Ive seen worse...I've seen the fins on the pump have been completely gone.OMG
 
I was going to say, other than all that crap the pump looks to be in very good condition. Perhaps you could also try some pressurized flushing.
 
That's insane, I'd probably flush it with lacquer thinner, then put all new seals and water pump in it...all hoses too! The cooling system will probably break one part right after you fix the other so if you have to rebuild anything (including the engine ) this might be a good solution *shrugs* never tried it, but in my business, we use ONE thing to get off weird/odd sticky stuff or to flush out something thats got god knows what in it and it's gooey LOL LACQUER THINNER!! might mix in some "rust converter" to aid in killing any rust in the system... I honestly don't know what this would do, but if i had to pick 2 things to put in that MIGHT clean up and fix what you have and not damage anything(except rubber seals), that would be the 2. Good luck man, I'm sure even a flush and a new pump and some seals would make a worked of deifference..fluch it , then if it clogs, take it to a radiator shop and have it professionally cleaned.
 
Thanks for the suggestions.
Once I get the head bolted back on I'll put the tires on it and roll it outside. I'm thinking a primitive flush with the garden hose through every heater/coolant hose I can find might work. I'm gonna leave the radiator disconnected so none of that crud gets into it. Then I'll put a new water pump on it and when its running I'll flush it several times.
PS The lacquer thinner is something I haven't heard of but I see why it would break crud loose!
 
^^^ Sounds good, et us know how she runs after you get 'er flushed and running again!
 
I would flush the heater core seperate. Take both lines off and flush water one way and then the other. I'd also try and flush the block out and the radiator out. Once you get the car running pick up some of the flush detergants they sell at the auto store and use that. Then drain the whole system and fill with actual antifreeze and water. Maybe also use some of the lube that they offer for cooling systems, it could help with the rust issue.
 
if that is stop leak your in for a real treat as it is almost impossible to get that stuff out, as for laquer thinner I don't know if that sounds like a great idea, but I guess its worth a shot, let us know on that one.
 
That block should be hot-tanked. Short of that, you're counting on band-aids and luck.
Hook up a hose to the heater core and see if it flows, and what all crap comes out of it- flush it backward. You may have lucked out, and limited that corrosion to the block; if the engine wasn't turned over and that crap wasn't pumped through the system.... well, we're back to the luck part of the equation. Of course be wary of the radiator as well. New ones just aren't that expensive, and the plastic in yours is on the edge of complete rot and failure anyway.
 
Thanks again for the suggestions.:thumb:

Once I get the new head bolted on I'll be spending some time with the garden hose flushing and reverse flushing the block, the heater core, and the radiator. None of which will be connected to each other. Don't want to spread the contamination problem if it truely confined to the block like I think it is. Then I'll mount up the water pump, finish the engine, and do a flush or two with the "coolant flush" type additives.
The radiator was drained and the car hasn't been turned over in two years so I'm pretty sure the block is the only trouble spot. Oil was put in the cylinders so they are in excellent shape.

I'm gonna go do a search on what the heater core is made up...plastic or alloy.

I've been addicted to this forum since I started back in on my TSI. This place rocks :thumb::rocks:

EDIT: 12/26---the green stuff at the bottom has now turned rust colored:confused:
 
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