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11 sec. PSI

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UndergroundR32

20+ Year Contributor
664
0
Jun 6, 2002
I'm building a GSX and was curious as to what the boost pressure would be, give or take a pound of pressure on an 11.5 or so second car?
 
The question you asking is completeley relative as to your mods and what turbo you are going to be using. There's no magic number to get to 11.5. Some have done on 25psi some maybe on 28-30psi.

Later,
 
Well put it this way... I am clueless to boosting a car... Always had a N/A car. I got into a BAD car accident this past christmas eve... Broke 2 vertabrae, my jaw in 3 places, my collarbone...... All from black ice and a really small tree... Anyway I got a nice settlement from this of which I am going to take hopefully no more than 20,000 or 22 and buy a 95 GSX... Rip the motor apart, new pistols, valves, springs, port job..... Slap if back together and stick a blitz or greddy turbo on it... Not sure which one yet because like I said I have no experience with a turbocharging.
 
Sorry, not "really" wanting to be a dick w/ that reply. That's just a VERY difficult question to answer (should probably be in the NEWBIE section). It all depends on your setup. Larger turbos will be able to make it on lower boost than smaller turbos. Plus it depends on all your other "supporting" mods as well (engine, exhaust, intake, intercooler size, fuel system, etc, etc, etc). Not to mention how well your car is tuned. There are a LOT of factors that come into play.
 
Well I would much rather run a smaller trim that spools up quickly then run a LOT of boost that lags horribly until i hit like 35 or something.
 
Check out a 20G mitsubishi turbo or a Green turbo...on a smaller turbo like a 16G its going to take alot of tuning to make a 11 sec car. You will need larger injectors, fuel pump, full exhaust no cat, S-AFC, boost controller, Front mount intercooler, alot of tuning and some wieght reduction. good luck. but make sure u do some research on this site and www.vfaq.com
 
why exactly is it that you get more power out of a bigger turbo than a smaller turbo if they are booth running the same psi? What other factors are there besides psi and how do these come into play? I don't want to sound like an idiot, but i just have to know.
 
Originally posted by dsmtrance
Larger turbos will be able to make it on lower boost than smaller turbos.

Not entirely true. Some smaller compressor wheels may beat the pants of larger ones at say, 20psi. But at 30psi the larger one may totally destroy the smaller one. It's all in the map. 11.5 is going to take a lot of boost pressure on any turbo. If I were trying to run 11.5 and I wouldn't even bother with less than 25psi on any turbo. I'd just set it to 25psi and see what happened. Then I would go from there.
 
Yeah well that's what I figured. I'm looking to run about 28. I'm going to rip the block apart before I even get a turbo and put lower compression pistons in. What compression ratio would you find ideal for 28 psi or 30 psi? Also if I'm going to run that much boost it's best for me to get titanium valves and springs and basically replace everything in the valve train right?
 
If you can afford it go for it. All that stronger/lighter weight valvetrain stuff will help you rev higher. I'd go with an 8.5:1 compression if I was building a high boost drag motor. Maybe 9:1. Probably not any higher.
 
Well put it this way... I have more but am only looking to spend 15 thousand on building it. I'm going to get a 6 point cage and suspension as well as fuel pump and stuff like that aside from the motor.... How much would you give as a ballpark price for completely new valve train
 
To build the full motor and do it nicely....I'd estimate $5000 in mods/machine work...

Then add on another $3-5k in suspension/power mods/miscellaneous mods/and labor.

I'd say for $10k in mods you could have an 11sec car if you knew what you were doing. :)

Laters
Jason.
 
want a "quick recipe" for 11's?

engine Wise... turbo:20g, FP Green, or FP red.
660cc injectors, walbro 255lph fuel-pump, and AFRP
"big" FMIC ie: buschur's old "big" one. 2.5" pipes
ported evoIII manifold, o2 housing, and 3" mandrel
turbo-back exhaust. buschurs CAI. MSD ignition
1g head/intake manifold, 6-bolt block(big rods) =0]
if you choose to stay 2g, get DSM link, or similar
now, you will need act 2600(or similar) 4-bolt
rear-End(if you happen to get an older 1g)
upgraded diffs, and tranny. you'll also need a
certified roll-cage, and 5-point harness.
and All the *little* stuff like: HBC, aftermarket BOV
external Wastegate gauges to make sure you're
not blowing **** up. also, 4 good Drag-radials, too!
dont' Forget balance shaft elimination

I'm *SURE* this is not a complete list.. but it gives you an Idea of what you have Ahead of you. although DSM's are "EASY" to modify, it's not as easy as some people think.

there's also the scheduled maintenance.. and *CRANKWALK*
if you buy a 2g for the "sexy curves" anticipate swapping To a 6-bolt motor, and using DSMlink, or a Stand-alone to make it daily-drivable.

good luck..... and godspeed(or Something)
 
If i had that type of money to throw around i would rip the stock engine out and sell it and then order a racing short block and racing head from a tuner like www.extrememotorsports.com or busherracing or boostedperformance then have them put a huge turbo on it at the shop then when you get it in the mail take it to a shop around you area have them drop it in put in a fuel pump and a few other tuning parts and turn the boost up like a mother and you would be running very fast enough to kill yourself if you arent careful oh ya then you would start to fix **** you broke like driveshafts and trannys ect. Just an idea

Drew
 
I think everything I have read in my DSM'ng experience tell me to Stay away From Extreme-built "stuff"
this isn't to Start a turf-war... they have run some *DAMN* impressive #'s, and the couple conversations I had with sean were friendly, but I have heard too many horror stories.

and no... it's not As easy as "slapping a bunch of stuff together" And Running good times....
 
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