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rm2932

Probationary Member
8
0
Dec 22, 2002
New Berlin,
I was doing some turbo research and I came across a Garrett turbo engineer (Rob Cadle) talking about the disadvantanges of the 60-1 compressor wheel. So I thought I would pass the word on. Here you go:

I don't know why anyone would run a 60-1 on a small-displacement high-boost engine. Many of the maps that Turbonetics has on the web site are bogus. However, most of them originally came from Garrett, and if they have not been doctored by Turbonetics, then they are pretty accurate. The map for the 60-1 that is on their website:

http://www.turboneticsinc.com/comp_maps/fig9.html

is an accurate map, but notice that none of the efficiency contours are labeled. That peak efficiency contour is about 74%, and look at how low a boost pressure it peaks at: less than 14 psi. By the time you are running 23-24 psi of boost (2.7 or so pressure ratio), you are in the mid-60's for compressor efficiency PEAK. Low efficiency means more power-robbing detonation producing backpressure and reversion.

The 60-1 does flow a lot. It flows more than the 60 trim T-04E, as Louis said. The T04E flows about 50 lbs/min versus 60 lb/min for the 60-1. However, lets look at what you have to do to flow that much.

An SR20 running 26 psi of boost, turning 7500 RPM with a 120 degree F intake manifold temperture will flow about 50 lbs/minute at 100% volumetric efficiency, which you will not achieve. At the 90% or so VE that is obtainable with headwork, cams, etc, you are talking about 45 lb/min. In order to flow 60 lbs/min you will have to run 39 psi (3.7:1 pressure ratio) at 120 degree F intake manifold temp. Even with an ice water/air charge air cooler, you will have to run 35+ psi of boost to get that kind of air flow into an SR20, at which point you'll be blowing head gaskets left and right unless you do a lot of work.

The only way you'll get that kind of airflow is through revs, and very high VE. To get high VE, you'll have to run in crossover, and that will take very high overall turbocharger efficiency, which you won't get with a 60-1.

I'm not saying it isn't possible to make good power with this turbo. But, you have to get out of the 'follow-the-leader' me-too habit of doing what someone else does just because he turns a fast ET. If the guy running the 60-1 would listen to what I say, his car would be faster. Period.

Rob Cadle
91 SE-R
 
Yeah whatever. The problem is all the “educated” :rolleyes: talk doesn’t hold up in the real world. There are so many people making HUGE power on a 60-1 that its not even funny.
 
The point of the conversation is not to elicit negative responses. I was merely just throwing out some info from someone who actually helped design/build these turbos. He does know/understand alot more than just about anyone else in the world about these set-ups. Also, you can make massive power on this turbo, that's not the argument. BUT rather, you would not be blowing your headgaskets/ruining motors by running into massive bouts of reversion. Try looking at the flowchart of a 60-1 compressor listed by Garret and you'll see that, that blade was designed for low rpm (blade speed), high lb minute function, or big displacement low boost set ups. We neccessitate a much higher rpm function to create such flow, throwing this blade way out of it's effeciency range. YES it will make power, but at what cost to the user. There are better options that is all I was pointing out. It should also be stated that ALL street turbos run into reversion...FACT, but the reason why big turbos make so much power (basically) they run into less reversion coupled with the ability to run very efficient at high rpm making large amounts of power.
 
There are some things call "race gas" that will counter most of the problems he mentioned. Besides, that turbo push so much air you dont need to run high boost on the street with pump gas.
 
Originally posted by rm2932
The point of the conversation is not to elicit negative responses.
If you don’t want negative response don’t start a debate plain and simple. I would be the first person to admit that it isn’t an ideal turbo on paper but a lot of the numbers that you posted from that source don’t fit with real world data. Many people have made 500 wheel hp at around 27lbs of boost which would total conflict with that guy’s “calculations”.

rm2932 if the 60-1 sucks so bad can you recommend a better wheel combo?
 
Well, I ran a 60-1 for a while, about 8 months. It never once blew a HG, or had massive amounts of detonation, and I ran up to 40#'s on it. I love theory land, because everything works there. People need to wake up, so what if it was designed for a different purpose then what people are using it for. It works, and thats all there is to it, I made 526.6WHP without nitrous on a 60-1, I would say it works pretty well. I don't really understand the point of this post, so what if it isn't as efficient as another wheel, I don't see those "other" wheel's making as much power as a 60-1. As I said, I made RELIABLE power off of this wheel, and would recommend it to anyone.

I thought this was old news anyways, oh well.
 
Originally posted by mclaren55
Well, I ran a 60-1 for a while, about 8 months. It never once blew a HG, or had massive amounts of detonation, and I ran up to 40#'s on it.

Holy crap, 40psi? OMG

But calculations are just that...they help you get to where you want to go. Theory and equations are not absolute in the sense that everything will do exactly what's on paper. That's the whole point of reading compressor maps...you get a picture of what the turbo is capable of, and try to match it with your motor's capabilities.

But, anyways...have fun. :thumb:
 
For a T3/T4 turbo I would go with a 60trim, Stage V turbonetics exhaust wheel, and a .82A/R.
 
I don't believe I just wasted my time reading this garbage. 50 trim and 60-1 are by far the best wheels you can buy in a big turbo. Why do you think you FP sells so many Greens and Reds??? I'd much rather go by real world evidence than some wankers theory
 
Good luck running a stage 5 wheel. I have seen logs where it takes half the next gear to get thing to spool up. I've never used it, but I've seen the lag it creates, and probably never will use it. :)

It seems to me that one of the most successful turbo builders tossed a whole lineup of turbo using the 54,47,60 etc trim wheels in favor of just two. The 50 trim and 60-1. I'm no turbo expert, just my observations.
 
Yep, I know, 40#'s may seem like a lot, but on a daily basis on the street I ran her at 33#'s on C16, which is also the PSI I hit 526.6WHP on. The only reason I ran 40#'s was due to a situation where it was do or die, and I won the event because of it. Car was running extremely rich (10.0-10.5 A/F Ratios), so I upped the boost all the way. It worked. hahahaha.
 
Originally posted by SOURCE1064
Slowboy Racing G60-1 same turbo I'm going to be running.

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Nuff said. :D

What boost level was this dyno at? And what was the horse at say 10 or 15psi? you can see if the turbo stays effiecent with this equation:

low boost horse * (desired psi + 14.7) / ( base psi + 14.7) = desired horse

If your car dyno falls off this pattern you are maxing something out.
 
If I remember correctly it was in the upper 20s. A fellow NEDSM member recently did 495 HP on a red, in fwd mode. That was at 30 psi.
 
>For a T3/T4 turbo I would go with a 60trim, Stage V turbonetics exhaust wheel, and a .82A/R.

OMFG!!! Do not even think about running this turbo in a DSM!!! I wasted ½ of last season using 60-1, Stage 5, w/.63 a/r and it was simply unbearable! This turbo is only appropriate on NOS spraying Automatic cars! As in, forget about closing your throttle!

I would not get 20psi of boost until around 5000rpms and the lag between the shifts was terrible! Check out this log behind this post.

Now, I know that this was not the problem with the 60-1 intake and .63 turbine housing was also very reasonable but Stage 5 exhaust wheel was a MAJOR contributor to lag! I can’t even begin to imagine how bad the lag will be with a .82 A/R housing…

Hope I can help others avoid the mistake that cost me half of season and a few hundred $$$…

RM, you seem to have a lot of Toyota experience. How long have you been into DSM’s? Our cars have often disproved very solid experience from other car worlds… I am not against new ideas, but please understand that many DSM old timers have seen numerous experts from other camps make total fools out of themselves applying “non-DSM” practices, no matter how sound they might be…

Edit: I guess I had to shrink it to a tough to read size, the first line is boost. Check out almost 1000rpms lag after closing the throttle!

Leon
RR
 

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Ah yes.... the dreaded stage 5 turbine wheel. Its like having a brick attached to the turbine shaft. Well, not the weight, just the aerodynamics.

jeff
 
Well I like to do things on paper before it hits the road. I think his explanation just states that better efficiency could be found else where, not saying it doesnt work!!mind you. I think maybe with this statement there may be an even better trim that flows the same, or more, but runs more efficient. Just imgine running 40 psi and that being the industry standard!!:) I think its a posotive statement... I, for one, would love to see this car march in competition with the 6cyl 6-900 hp monsters we read about. Just imagine 1st and 2nd gen DSM on the cover of turbo.... top 6: 600 whp MONSTER 2.0!! Possible... :confused:.... anything is possible... thanks for the info...
 
40psi may sound too much for you but the Supra in town at ARD is running 40psi on juice with a T88.

They are building an AWD with T66. We have to see how that thing spool on a 2.0 ;)
 
60-1s work at low altitudes plain and simple. They have a lot of trouble here in Denver though. The two Red equipped cars in Denver just plain do not perform. Maybe it's the owners but others have gone over their setups and nobody can come up with ANYTHING. I think it's the turbos. But we're in a whole other world here where ambient pressures can be like 11.5psi. It sucks. But I chose a 50-trim to fight that.
 
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