1Gin2G - Tuning Issues - Exhuast Mani Leak + Logs & More!

[GSXeclipsePSI]

- Hey guys -

I have been having a hard time with this 1g in my 98GSX. I can't get the base timing set with the timing light I used. It wouldn't show the timing mark anywhere near the marks on the t-belt case.

And the strobe would skip out now and then could this be a bad coil or wires? There the 10mm Magncore's. I also dont have a afpr upgrade and no re-wired 255hp fuel pump 550cc injectors and AFC.

I went to the track. I ran a 13.5 at best . Before my FMIC, 6Bolt & UD pulley I ran a 13.2 so something isn't right.

I have the logs from the track. They are below. I can't get this car tuned well. It builds boost b4 3k and it starts pulling back, like boosting but not going anywhere since I didn't open the throttle anymore then to drive normal.

I have the setting on the afc to -37 after 4000rpms to get the 02's close .89 to .911..

I'm confused, 1g's have a different 02 voltage to target then 2g's but I have a 1g motor, so I been doing 1g tuning. The car runs like crap to say the least.

Boost leak tested to 4-5psi. Leaking at TB elbow. I have XS Power FMIC with elbow and you can't get to the 4th bolt closes to the TPS .. bottom of the 4 bolts.. Right bottom. So I get air out of there. I put the CR3930's in and rebuilt the TB shaft seals already, replaced TB gaskets.


--------------------Exhaust Manifold----------------------

RED - is exhuast gas carbon = Leak

GREEN - is missing studs

WHITE - I couldn't get this stud in any futher!

BLUE - This in missing a nut (stud has oil on it)

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LOGS
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22PSI - 110 Octane working its way in
-37 above 4k
1st Log ever with .0 at top end . I know it wasn't working good.
Could be CAS be 180* out?

TIME COOLANT RPM TIMING AIR TPS 02's

1.69 207.0 5008 16.0 14.7 100. 0.96
2.13 207.0 6281 22.0 17.81 100.2 0.96
2.56 207.0 7297 35.0 3.09 9.82 .16
3.0 207.0 6516 28.0 13.54 100. 0.94
3.85 208.0 4266.0 14.0 13.54 100. 0.9
4.28 208.0 5465.0 20.0 15.28 100.2 0.92
5.99 208.0 6262.0 20.0 15.28 9.82 0.6
6.42 210.0 5180.0 26.0 10.24 100.2 0.96
6.86 210.0 4797.0 15.0 13.74 100.2 0.92
7.29 210.0 4953.0 15.0 14.24 100.2 0.9
8.97 212.0 5488.0 16.0 15.67 100.2 0.9
9.84 214.0 5750.0 14.0 17.84 100.2 0.9
10.27 214.0 6180.0 14.0 17.01 100.2 0.94
11.11 214.0 6180.0 13.0 19.03 100.2 0.92
11.55 214.0 6750.0 14.0 19.47 100.2 0.92
13.23 216.0 7395.0 30.0 12.62 100.2 0.02
13.67 216.0 7148.0 38.0 12 9.82 0.4
14.1 216.0 5074.0 19.0 13.37 100.2 0.92
14.54 216.0 5418.0 16.0 16.08 100.2 0.88
15.39 217.0 5281.0 35.0 16.08 9.82 0.28
16.23 217.0 5281.0 34.0 0.94 9.82 0.28
16.67 217.0 4988.0 34.0 0.71 9.82 0.24
17.1 217.0 4824.0 34.0 0.56 9.82 0.22
17.95 217.0 4824.0 34.0 0.51 9.82 0.12
18.38 219.0 4316.0 34.0 0.46 9.82 0.1
18.83 219.0 4180.0 33.0 0.47 9.82 0.1
19.26 219.0 4004.0 33.0 0.51 9.82 0.12
19.7 219.0 3852.0 33.0 0.49 9.82 0.26
20.13 219.0 3691.0 33.0 0.49 9.82 0.42
20.56 219.0 3586.0 23.0 0.5 9.82 0.02
21.39 219.0 3020.0 23.0 0.5 9.82 0.0
21.84 219.0 4719.0 24.0 0.5 9.82 0.0
22.27 219.0 4402.0 24.0 0.48 9.82 0.0
23.11 219.0 4258.0 24.0 0.48 9.82 0.0
23.54 219.0 3938.0 23.0 0.5 9.82 0.0
23.99 219.0 3770.0 23.0 0.49 9.82 0.0
24.84 219.0 3609.0 23.0 0.5 9.82 0.0

Log software beta 2 - TPS on V.1 = 10% V.2=7-9% -voltage 1.040

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Someone please help. I don't need to be told the samething over and over... Input would be great.

 

[Batman™]

Not sure if this is going to help or not, but here goes. Although you are running a 1G motor, you're running a 2G ECU, sensors, etc. You need to be tuning just like a normal 2G. I'm sure you followed Magnus's 1G in a 2G tech article and swapped the injector wires at the ecu and either the two blue wires for the coil plug or just the spark plug wires themselves. Make sure you didn't accidentally put your CAS in 180* inverted too. I thought I did mine right, but in the end it was wrong. That could be a large part of your problem.

 

[turbosax2]

You better resize that picture before mods come in screaming.

 

[GSXeclipsePSI]

According to Magnus if you have a 97+ you dont need to swap injector wires or plugs.. maybe someone else can give a opinion on this.

The car doesn't even move with the 02's around .92 or higher.

I figured since the motor in designed with a different compression ratio I would have to tune for a 1g not 2g. but thanks for the feedback!

I swapped the CAS 180* from what I had, the car was shutting off at 4000rpm or higher like fuel cut... popping etc. and it ran alot better this way.

The CAS is set in the middle of its adjustment range. No matter which way the CAS was, the base timing DIDN't match up to the T-Belt case at all.

Its hard to see also with the ## UD crank pulley.

 

[viprez586]

Fix that exhaust leak. It'll help trust me.
A lot of vendors sell new stud+nut kits. I recommend it.

Tip: A good way of getting out a frozen stud is when the engine is still kinda warm you take the nut on there
and drive it down a little so you can get the second nut on and lock them together. This will allow you to turn
the second nut and in turn spin the whole stud out.
good luck

 

[GSXeclipsePSI]

i uploaded the picture to my geocities account so i dont see there being a problem of a up close shot to show detail. but thanks for the concern.

 

[Spoolin98]

I just got done doing the same swap. Are you using the 1g or 2g coilpack?
Im pretty sure with the 1g coilpack on our year cars you still have to swap the plug wires, you just dont have to do anything with the injectors.

Im using my 2g coilpack and I didnt switch anything.

As for your tuning method, you should be tuning the 2g route like said earlier. The 1g motor doesnt matter.

First off, get another timing light and see if it does the same thing. If so, its not your light. I cant help you with setting your base timing bc I havent set mine yet. Are you trying to match your timing light to what your logger reads +/- 3* from 5*BTDC?

Fix your known problems, like your exhaust leak.
Im confused about your first post...do you still have a boost leak or did you fix it?

 

[GSXeclipsePSI]

fix my boost leak from 0PSI to 4-5PSI of pressure with leak, holds steady!

The base timing is above the marks on the case, like towards the firewall, so I dont know what that reads. Its past the marks on the cover, I can't get it to match or come close to the marks on the case, unless I advance it all the way then it gets close. Maybe someone has a diagram of what I should be seeing. The chilton manual doesn't help much with the picture.


I'm using the 1g Coil pack, with I belive the 2g power trans I dont know, which one is which they got mixed up... What wires would I need to switch, could that be why at 180* one direction it was cutting out??

 

[Batman™]

Something that just hit me:

With my car to set base timing I had to go into my DSMLink user functions and "ground timing." this gave me a stable timing signal to run the timing light against. I've done a couple logs on my car at idle already, and timing can jump at high at 16*. That may be why you're not able to set the timing. I don't know if there's a way to ground timing or not with Link, as I've never needed to do it. You may want to search around here and see if it's possible. Just my .02.

 

[Batman™]

This should hopefully shed a little light.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=184807&highlight=ground+timing

 

[GSXeclipsePSI]

as far as I know. The only way to ground base timing on a 2g 97+ is 2 use a mitsubishi computer or ScanTool to ground it out to set base timing. But its not on 97+ since base timing was set at 5*BTDC and was no adjustable.

 

[Batman™]

Wow. Guess there's still a lot to learn. I'm still somewhat based in 95 land...

 

[GSXeclipsePSI]

nah, thats straight bro

 

[Spoolin98]

fix my boost leak from 0PSI to 4-5PSI of pressure with leak, holds steady!

The base timing is above the marks on the case, like towards the firewall, so I dont know what that reads. Its past the marks on the cover, I can't get it to match or come close to the marks on the case, unless I advance it all the way then it gets close. Maybe someone has a diagram of what I should be seeing. The chilton manual doesn't help much with the picture.


I'm using the 1g Coil pack, with I belive the 2g power trans I dont know, which one is which they got mixed up... What wires would I need to switch, could that be why at 180* one direction it was cutting out??

.

First off, why are you pressure testing to only 4-5psi when your running 22psi?

Do some research on running the 1g coilpack, Im pretty sure you need to switch the plug wires? Im not sure about the 180* thing

As for setting the base timing, there is no way to ground what you need to ground on our cars without DSMlink. Without link, The only way to set the base timing is to use your logger and get your timing light reading to match your datalogger reading +/- 3* from 5*BTDC.

 

[GSXeclipsePSI]

4-5psi cause the FMIC and Piping held boost fine. The intake elbow and manifold I could only get to 4-5psi and hold. I tried to fix all the leaks. I have a 2g TB on 1G Manifold so I got the 2g gaskets since its smaller. I have a leak at the elbow. But with the FMIC I have I can't get the 4bolt to tighten. There is no way to get any type of tool in there, its hand tight. I switched the TB studs to the bottle to try and make it easier. But TB is leaking. I never took the motor apart, and my friends 1g it came out of was anal about his car, he said it pressure tested fine for him.

 

[Spoolin98]

Go to http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/tech/1gina2g.pdf

Read page 9 of 11 shows you how to make sure your CAS isnt 180* off and also shows you how to set your base timing.

 

[Spoolin98]

4-5psi cause the FMIC and Piping held boost fine. The intake elbow and manifold I could only get to 4-5psi and hold. I tried to fix all the leaks. I have a 2g TB on 1G Manifold so I got the 2g gaskets since its smaller. I have a leak at the elbow. But with the FMIC I have I can't get the 4bolt to tighten. There is no way to get any type of tool in there, its hand tight. I switched the TB studs to the bottle to try and make it easier. But TB is leaking. I never took the motor apart, and my friends 1g it came out of was anal about his car, he said it pressure tested fine for him.

Your not making much sense to me. You said you fixed the boost leaks and now your saying the elbow and manifold only hold 4-5psi. So technically you do have boost leaks. Just because your FMIC and piping isnt leaking doesnt make everything ok. Your car is not going to run right if there is a leak anywhere. You need to fix EVERY boost leak and do a boost leak test and get it to hold 22psi solid.

 

[GSXeclipsePSI]

any suggestions for elbow tho... I can't get it here is a picture. its the bottom right in the picture. I can't get it sealed. Should I try some RTV between the gaskets?

The Manifold TB gaskets?

I'm stumped to why its still leaking.

I think the TPS is fine or no? It should read 1.00v idle and upto 5v at WOT...
Biss is almost all the way in. Its new also.

*** also would the 2g TB make a difference in sealing? They look to be fine 2gTB on 1Gintake, but not the other way around.

I will be at work til 9:30pm so I wont reply til then again.
ttyl

 

[Batman™]

So the front bottom corner is the one you can only hand tighten? If so I'd highly recommend taking the nut to Lowes and finding youself a allen head bolt in the same thread diameter and pitch. Take the TB back off and apply thin lines of ultra grey RTV to both sides of the gasket around any openings so as not to clog them. Then reinstall the TB elbow after first inserting the long allen head bolt. An allen head wrench should allow you the clearance you need to tighten it down, and the ultra grey RTV will completely seal it up just in case.

 

[Spoolin98]

Did you try using a bolt instead of a stud there?

Call Dejon tool and see if they will sell you the 4 bolts they sell with there elbow. They are bolts like you have in the upper right corner, buy with smaller heads for you to get a socket on when using an extension under the TB elbow. Or do like the previous poster said and find an allenhead bolt or another bolt with a smaller head. I personally dont use RTV on those gaskets. Its not needed when installed correctly.

 

[Batman™]

I always use it as an extra precaution. And imo, why wait for shipping when Lowes is just around the corner in most cases? Those allen head bolts hold up to a lot of abuse. I'm using them right now for my TB and to bolt my turbo to my exhaust manifold. Good stuff.

 

[Spoolin98]

I always use it as an extra precaution. And imo, why wait for shipping when Lowes is just around the corner in most cases? Those allen head bolts hold up to a lot of abuse. I'm using them right now for my TB and to bolt my turbo to my exhaust manifold. Good stuff.

Im not stepping on your toes here bud, Im simplying giving the OP other options besides the one you gave him. As for the RTV, like I said, If installed properly you dont need it. A simple boost leak test will prove that, and you dont have to clean the surfaces everytime you take the TB off. In fact, some TB seals I have seen come with an RTV like seal already on the gasket so RTV is not needed.

 

[Batman™]

Nah man. Wasn't trying to get in a pissing match with you. Just stating my own personal ways. Everyone has theirs, and they all seem to work pretty well. Friends? Lol.

 

[Spoolin98]

Nah man. Wasn't trying to get in a pissing match with you. Just stating my own personal ways. Everyone has theirs, and they all seem to work pretty well. Friends? Lol.

Friends

 

[GSXeclipsePSI]

I had tried the bolt but the angle is not right with that elbow. I will try a allen, i just hate to take all that crap off again.. thanks for the input tho, great ideas!

If the bolt is too long, it won't clear the elbow thats the only thing, the factory one wont fit... damn Ebay FMIC kits.. Good shit, but get what you pay 4 !

Thanks guys!