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boost gauge installed

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jb talons

20+ Year Contributor
176
1
Sep 19, 2002
Latrobe, Pennsylvania
I did it. I finally did it. This past weekend I installed my new boost gauge and a/f gauge.

I want to extend my biggest thanks to all those who post indtructions and suggestions.:thumb:

here are a couple pics.
 
I know it's not cool to leave an open hole, I'll cover it and save up for the next gauge.
 

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I have a question now. The only thing I've done as far as boost control is to remove the restrictor from the BCS. I've done a couple of wot pulls in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. I'm seeing the gauge spike at 20 psi and settle at 15 to 16 psi. Is this right? I was not expecting to see these readings. I thought it would read around 11-12 psi.

Any thoughts? Did I install it wrong?:confused:
 
It's reading about right.
My advise to you is get a boost controller, you don't want to have boost spikes that high.
A manual boost controller is only $50, and you won't get any spikes.

I have a Joe P. Boost controller, is set at 15psi and it doesn't go over or fall below.

If you need help installing the boost controller go to my wesite it explains in details in how to do it.

http://awdpower.tripod.com/
 
jb talons.. gauges and pod are looking good.. i have similar ones.. as for your boost spiking.. with the mods i have.. same thing happens to me.. i get 20psi spikes then regular boost is 15-16 psi.. this is with no mbc.. so it should be right.. where is ur vac reading? make sure when the car is off its at 0.. and when its on and at idle.. that it reads around anywhere from 15-20 -hg vac

Idiot Stick.. are you sure ur a/f gauges is hooked up properly? despite it being useless.. it gives u an "idea" of how ur car is running.. at idle it should cycle from lean to stoich/rich.. at wot it should be pegged at rich.. if all that goes on are the 2 red lights pointing at lean, and the gauge is installed properly, and u go WOT.. check out ur car man..
 
I still remenber the first time I installed a boost gauge.

but it's fun.

I'm stalling the ten one Tomarrow. LOL!
 
Originally posted by RedTurboEclipse
jb talons.. gauges and pod are looking good.. i have similar ones.. as for your boost spiking.. with the mods i have.. same thing happens to me.. i get 20psi spikes then regular boost is 15-16 psi.. this is with no mbc.. so it should be right.. where is ur vac reading? make sure when the car is off its at 0.. and when its on and at idle.. that it reads around anywhere from 15-20 -hg vac

Idiot Stick.. are you sure ur a/f gauges is hooked up properly? despite it being useless.. it gives u an "idea" of how ur car is running.. at idle it should cycle from lean to stoich/rich.. at wot it should be pegged at rich.. if all that goes on are the 2 red lights pointing at lean, and the gauge is installed properly, and u go WOT.. check out ur car man..
Click to expand...


When the car is off, at the zero mark there is a little square, the needle sits at the top of the square. At idle, it reads 14-15 in/hg vac. When decelerating it reads 20 in-hg.

That also seems to be the way the a/f gauge works for me. One of the reasons I put it in was to know that my O2 sensor is working. If your not getting any reading or stuck on the bottom, could this be a sign that your O2 sensor is bad?
 
Originally posted by Vinnie
It's reading about right.
My advise to you is get a boost controller, you don't want to have boost spikes that high.
A manual boost controller is only $50, and you won't get any spikes.

I have a Joe P. Boost controller, is set at 15psi and it doesn't go over or fall below.

If you need help installing the boost controller go to my wesite it explains in details in how to do it.

http://awdpower.tripod.com/
Click to expand...


I have a Turbo xs boost controler. I just wanted to get the gauge installed first. I was just suprised to see these spikes. You think the mbc will help though. Thanks.
 
The hoses are much shorter, thereby decreasing the chance that you'll get boost spikes. Not saying you definitely WILL if you hook it up the other way, but spiking should minimized if you hook it up with as short of a hose routing as possible.
 
I tried both setups from the BOV and the Housing Nipple, I find it that doing it from the BOV is more accurate and it also spools up faster, but, that's just my opinion.

I used velcro to attached my pillar, on the sticky part of the velcro where the glue is, I had to use crazy glue, on those hot summer days it used to come apart, a little crazy glue, worked like a charm, if I ever need to take it off, all I have to do is seperate the velcro.

The third gauge you should get an EGT, it tells you more how your engine is operating than the Air/Fuel gauge
 
Originally posted by Airpoppoff

make shure you have an egt gauge before you get an oil press
Click to expand...

Negative. IMO EGT's are close to worthless. I've seen EGT's higher during highway cruising than at the track. The Probes that come with the gauges read too slow, and the ones that read quickly enought to be useful are very costly.

The only Gauge I will be running next year is a Boost gauge, every other useful reading will be datalogged.
 
yea its funny cause i dont think my boost controler is working and im almost 100% sure i hooked it up right, maybe i have a leak , ssssssssssssssssssshhhhhhhhhhhhhiiiiiiiiiiiiiiitttttttttttttttttttttt
 
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