Advice with lower IC pipe and BOV adjustment

[_Madman_]

I tried to search, but I couldn't find the answer so here I am...

I tried to replace factory lower IC pipe with the one from the Greddy kit today, but when I finally got all the joints in place I came to conclusion that the pipe is pretty much boxed in between IC and Turbo. The thing is that there is like 0.5mm gap at one side and 0.5mm at the other. Given the fact that engine tends to move more than 1mm during overloads I decided to stick with the factory pipe till I find a solution.

Has anyone experienced problems like this before? What solutions did you found? I think I will have to turn off part of the pipe to make the gap larger, because I'm not too keen on getting metal splinters inside my engine. Or shoud I just bolt the pipe in place and forget about that?

And while I'm on the intercooling and air topic. What does the compressor surge sound like? I tried to adjust the bov as good as I could, but I'm not quite sure I did it right. The thing is that it still whistles when I am at high boost, but the sound is strange if I let throttle off during mid-boost. Is the compressor surge sound short, or does it sound like pigeons taking off for 5-10 seconds?

Sorry for my bad english and terrible wording

 

[Rocket Boy]

Compressor surge sounds like a turkey getting raped, I think this is what you are hearing with the partial throttle let off. A good way to fix this is to do the gus mod or for an even better way is to add a WOT switch into the mix. I have mine set up a little different but it works great, here's the link.

http://newengdsm.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6904&highlight=gus+mod

 

[romeen]

Wow, 0.5mm is really tight. It would probably be a good idea to cut or grind a bit off to give it more room. If the pipe is beaded then cut off some from one end only to preserve the bead at the other end. Then I would make a bead on the end you just altered to keep from blowing off your couplers. Here are some tips for doing that:

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclipsetech/icpipebead.htm

I have used the epoxy method described at the bottom with very good success. I like to use the quick setting 5 minute epoxy ("JB Kwik" here in the U.S.) since it is easier to work with in this context. Additionally, you can consider using hump hose couplers instead of the more common straight coupler. The hump hose allows for more movement.

BTW, you have some truly beautiful ladies there in Latvia.

 

[Clay]

Hump hose or a longer coupler on both ends of the lower IC pipe.

 

[_Madman_]

Thanks for the replies!

Yea the pipe is beaded, but i think it will be all right to just put those clamps on after i take off like 5mm or so. It's REALLY tight there, so i doubt anything is going to fall off anyway. I just wanted to make sure that 1mm of clearance is too little.

Concerning BOV, i adjusted it 1/2 turn to soft side today, but still, the sound is there. Kinda like metalic, dull hit or something... Maybe the Greddy RS is just supposed to do that when recirculating/venting in low boost situation...

When is the surge most likely to happen at high boost values or low ones?

[UPDATE]
I tried searching for compressor surge on you tube and from what I found:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=MkkA-vfGWg0&mode=related&search= Sound is not like this
http://youtube.com/watch?v=Y4Eme4GGXwA and not like this
http://youtube.com/watch?v=iwtrFlTOeds&mode=related&search= and not like this either

http://youtube.com/watch?v=ox06dFRijMw&mode=related&search= It's a little similar to this, if there is a surge at all