Right way to hack 2g mas

[91-gsx]

I was reading through the dsmlink's user manual and noticed that they give you a table setup already on the manual for a 2g hacked mas with the lower and 2 side combs removed. I was wondering, would the car run well with these settings and a hacked mas? Will this thing flow closer to a evo 8 mas once its hacked? I would like to take full advantage of opening up any bottle necks in my 4" cold air intake, and removing 3 combs should make the turbo spool faster and hit harder. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[pneumo]

Hacking a mas tends to make it idle worse. DSMlink gives you the tools to make it run well, and wot will be better due to the lower restriction. Just make sure to compensate for the hacked maf by raising the maf comp sliders, otherwise the car will run lean. You'll have to re-tune for the maf changes.

Watch the mafraw hz when the car is idling and fully warmed up, if it goes much lower than 25hz after hacking the idle quality will begin to suffer. You can get around this by raising the idle speed. Also do a wot pull with the stock maf and log the barometer. IIRC a baro reading of 94-95 is about 1psi of pressure drop, which is a good reason to hack it.

I'm using a very hacked 2G maf and the car doesn't like to idle much lower than 1100rpm, but that's OK with me, as long as it flows well enough for 10 second timeslips and 135mph traps!

 

[91-gsx]

Hacking a mas tends to make it idle worse. DSMlink gives you the tools to make it run well, and wot will be better due to the lower restriction. Just make sure to compensate for the hacked maf by raising the maf comp sliders, otherwise the car will run lean. You'll have to re-tune for the maf changes.

Watch the mafraw hz when the car is idling and fully warmed up, if it goes much lower than 25hz after hacking the idle quality will begin to suffer. You can get around this by raising the idle speed. Also do a wot pull with the stock maf and log the barometer. IIRC a baro reading of 94-95 is about 1psi of pressure drop, which is a good reason to hack it.

I'm using a very hacked 2G maf and the car doesn't like to idle much lower than 1100rpm, but that's OK with me, as long as it flows well enough for 10 second timeslips and 135mph traps!

I thought that there must have been a performance gain from freeing up the mas. So they say on the dsmlink user guide to follow the above maf settings if you remove the bottom and side combs, do you agree with that or did I misunderstand something? Also, how hacked is your very hacked maf? Last questions I have are, once I get the maf settings above on dsmlink and the car runs fine, will the lbs/min be calibrated? Or does a hacked maf automatically mean that the lbs/min is off?
Thanks for the help

 

[pneumo]

I thought that there must have been a performance gain from freeing up the mas. So they say on the dsmlink user guide to follow the above maf settings if you remove the bottom and side combs, do you agree with that or did I misunderstand something? Also, how hacked is your very hacked maf? Last questions I have are, once I get the maf settings above on dsmlink and the car runs fine, will the lbs/min be calibrated? Or does a hacked maf automatically mean that the lbs/min is off?
Thanks for the help

Are you sure that's the recomended calibration for a hacked 2G maf? It looks more like the curve of a hacked 1G maf. If that's what they're telling you on the dsmlink forums, then go with it. From what I've seen, a hacked 1G maf has large curve like the compensation you've posted. A 2G maf is more linear. For example I'd use +40 at 50hz and +20 at 800 and 1200hz, you know, just level it out so it's still higher at low airflow, but the sliders come down evenly.

My maf has the lower and side honeycombs removed, adjustment screw backed off until it's flat with the bottom, removed the two dividers alongside the adjustment screw, then I used a porting tool and files to remove the step that the honeycombs sit on, and I thinned the plastic piece that holds the honeycombs in place. My maf comp curve shows it flows about 12% more than an EVO maf.

I'm not exactly sure how dsmlink calculates lbs/min, I assume it uses the total maf comp settings so it should still be as accurate/inaccurate as it always was.

 

[dsm-onster]

That is a 2g hacked maf comp curve. I've run this 'comp curve' on a friends 2g w/ a hacked maf (lower and side honeycombes removed). It purred like a kitten. Stop second guessing and trust the dsmlink guys .

There is no performance gain from hacking any maf then calibrating. Only if you don't calibrate. If you don't calibrate. Then your stock ecu is *fooled* (like an SAFC or maft) and leans out the a/f mix while adding timing. . . This does great for WOT performance but really kills idle and off idle ('factory-like' performance). You have dsmlink and do not need to do this to get the same form of performance since you can just lean out your fuel mix by adjusting the *fuel* slidders and add timing by adjusting the *timing* sliders.

When recalibrating a hacked maf by adjusting the airflow sliders using dsmlink, you now will idle like stock and have a much more beneficial quality w/ your setup: a maf that will overrun at a much higher airflow then normal. This means that you can *meter* way more airflow before your maf goes "schizophrenic". A hacked 2g maf can accurately meter as much airflow as a GM maf, if properly calibrated (likely MORE accurately). . . But if you don't hack and you overrun, your maf will read high/low-low/high/low/high-high/low/high-high or any mix in between ("schizophrenic": it will pay attention to a little voice n it's head and not read what is actually flowing). . . Good for melting pistons. . . This is much more important than fooling the maf since you have dsmlink. How much airflow do you predict flowing w/ your setup?

 

[91-gsx]

That is a 2g hacked maf comp curve. I've run this 'comp curve' on a friends 2g w/ a hacked maf (lower and side honeycombes removed). It purred like a kitten. Stop second guessing and trust the dsmlink guys .

There is no performance gain from hacking any maf then calibrating. Only if you don't calibrate. If you don't calibrate. Then your stock ecu is *fooled* (like an SAFC or maft) and leans out the a/f mix while adding timing. . . This does great for WOT performance but really kills idle and off idle ('factory-like' performance). You have dsmlink and do not need to do this to get the same form of performance since you can just lean out your fuel mix by adjusting the *fuel* slidders and add timing by adjusting the *timing* sliders.

When recalibrating a hacked maf by adjusting the airflow sliders using dsmlink, you now will idle like stock and have a much more beneficial quality w/ your setup: a maf that will overrun at a much higher airflow then normal. This means that you can *meter* way more airflow before your maf goes "schizophrenic". A hacked 2g maf can accurately meter as much airflow as a GM maf, if properly calibrated (likely MORE accurately). . . But if you don't hack and you overrun, your maf will read high/low-low/high/low/high-high/low/high-high or any mix in between ("schizophrenic": it will pay attention to a little voice n it's head and not read what is actually flowing). . . Good for melting pistons. . . This is much more important than fooling the maf since you have dsmlink. How much airflow do you predict flowing w/ your setup?

Thanks for the info. In my profile it shows that I have a t3 sc6152 stage 5 exhaust wheel in a .63a/r 5-bolt housing. But... I also have a magnus intake manifold and BC 272's that I have not installed yet. So I think this setup should flow 40lbs/min+. (side note:The wastegate spring pressure is 18psi, as in that is the least I can ever run.) What do you guys think, more or less flow? The 2g mas overruns at 52lbs/min or so right?
Thanks for the help