a DIFFERANT 7 bolt question.

[TheSh111t]

I know this question may seem the same as many others asked every day here on the board... BUT IT'S NOT... My question is this. I have a 1999 GSX and will be upgrading the turbo, front mount, injectors DSMlink ect. very soon (Late January I hope) and the stock 7 bolt is supposed to be lucky to see 400 hp to the wheels so... If I buy aftermarket rods and pistons is the 6 bolt STILL so superior? I understand about the whole crank walk thing, and I understand that that may still be in the picture, but otherwise what's wrong wih the the 2G 7 bolt bottom end? Ok before people hound me about the whole CW thing. Lets forget that aspect of it durring this post. ASSIDE from crank walk, if I replace the stock 7 bolt rods with Eagles and the pistons with a set from Ross, is the 7 bolt STILL a "Time bomb"? I have not been able to find an answer to this question on the board because everytime it seems to be asked someone pulls the CW card and the whole post goes down hill. Infact I read someplace that the 7 bolt, asside from the possibility of CW is a better engine (I don't understand how, but I guess it could be true) so does ANYONE have anything to say in regards to MY question? Keeping in mind the criteria I set earlier in the post? I hope to get this cleared up soon. Like I said I will be upgrading the car early next year, but will have to keep the boost down untill I go and build another engine for the car. Thanks for everyones time.

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

No. Besides the possibilty of your built 7-bolt walking there is no difference.

 

[DSMu4ia]

There is a difference, but no need to bicker over it.

Do it right and build a 6-bolt.

 

[TheSh111t]

So assuming that I don't get crankwalk, the 7 bolt should have no problems handeling say 500 WHP? I am looking at a FP green or ETE32 and a small shot of nitrous possibly a 50 hp wet shot. I should not have any problems handeling this kind of power?

 

[GSX_RCR]

There's no other answer than to just do it and see what you can pull out of the motor. Just keep an eye out for any signs of CW and you'll be fine. There is a place that makes a "alignment" kit that supposedly keeps things in check, which can help with CW. www.crco.com

But I haven't heard any other feedback on this product, so don't take my word for it.

 

[Enraged78]

Here's a flip side:

If you bought a six bolt, you could have time to work on it and have it finished while the seven bolt is in the car. Then, after the six bolt goes in, (you're going to wind up replacing many of the parts on the seven bolt anyway), you could sell the seven bolt as a longblock on Ebay. A pristine 99 GSX motor would turn up a pretty penny over there, maybe recoup some of the money that went into the project. You could also probably get a junked six bolt block pretty cheap. If you're going to build it up anyway, you could start with an older block and bore it out, maybe even stroke it. Or, if you like, you could just keep the seven bolt as an extra motor. Just imagine the possiblities. If it were me: I've heard a couple of horror stories of seven bolts walking just after having piston and rods upgrades done. I would spend the time and look for a '92 six bolt block. That seems to be the best motor to work with on a project like this.

Excellent plans by the way, that should be a great car.

Good Luck,
Matt.

 

[TheSh111t]

Thanks for the advice everyone, I guess this post turned out like so many others before it. But maybe you guys are right. It's just that the 6 bolt into a 2G car is not exactly a direct bolt in. I have heard many times that it can be a hassle, with all the sensors and the mounts and all. I will look it up again in the search. But just to get an Idea... How does a 6 bolt swap compair to just a removal and replacment of the factory 7 bolt engine. Is there a ton of modifications required just to get it to bolt up? Like I said, I will search, so I'm not asking what exactly I have to do, but is this a difficult procedure? I mean just R&R is hard enough. Thanks for the input everytone. I think I MAY have changed my mind about the whole 7 bolt thing. Also, I have a fully ported 2G head ready to go, minus the cams (I'm leaning toward the HKS 264/272 setup) so does the 2G head in a 6 bolt engine bring any problems in itself? Do all the sensors all work and everything? Thanks for the help again everyone. I'll keep in touch.

 

[CH152]

You have to get the 1g cam angle sensor to work with 2g crank angle sensor. You will need to modify the motor mounts and other sorts.. Here check out these. I've already looked and its to advance for a hillbilly like me.

http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/1g2g.htm

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1gcasin2g.htm

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/2g6boltmotorinstall.htm

Hope that helps answer your question....

 

[nothing stock]

Yes, use a second motor for your build up. It's nice to have the spare around, and the downtime will be much shorter. I did what your thinking about and my car has now been threw a few motors and 10 months of downtime.

 

[scorpion]

IMO dong a motor swap is not any harder than replacing the factory pistons and rods. Besides, if you're planning on getting 500hp out of the car, I would hope than you are or have a good mechanic around...one that knows how to properly tune a car.

 

[GSX_RCR]

Originally posted by nothing stock
I did what your thinking about and my car has now been threw a few motors and 10 months of downtime.

Hey, I beat your record. 3 motors, 12 months downtime and still counting. Am I going to give up on this DSM? HELL NO! :laugh:

 

[TheSh111t]

Just like I was affraid. There is ALOT of special machining and tapping and things of that sort to worry about while doing a 6 bolt swap. Now I'm not sure what to do anymore. I had almost made up my mind and was just going to do the 6 bolt swap, but after reading further into the modifications required for the swap, I'm just not willing to do that kind of internal work on such vital parts. I will either run the stock engine at moderate HP levels and pray that it stays together (If not it's under warranty, I just have to take all the mods back off) or go with a built 7 bolt and hope for the best. My uncle has a 1999 GST with over 70,000 miles (Mostly stock) and he has yet to have any problems, and he has been running an ACT 2600 (Like I am) since his stock clutch went out at about 28,000. He has no crank walk problems. The possibility of CW is still on my mind, and I would hate to spend that kind of money on aftermarket rods and pistons, only to have to CW sometime down the road. But unless I want to go through all the machining (And in my oppenion...Some rigging) to the 6 bolt for the swap (Which I don't) those are my only options. Thank everyone for the help and information, especially CH152 for the links. I just hope I don't become one of the statistics. Later everyone.

 

[CH152]

Originally posted by TheSh111t
Thank everyone for the help and information, especially CH152 for the links. I just hope I don't become one of the statistics. Later everyone.

PM me on how it goes..I got my reman 7 bolt with a great warrenty that i really couldn't turn down... 12 month 12,000 mile

 

[GSX4LIFE]

Asside from the CW prob, the 7bolt is a nicer engine. Better design. I have a built 7bolt. The problem is getting it done right. Mine walked the first time, after fresh rebuild, because Extreme motorsports did not build it right. After I paidto have it done again, it has performed flawlessly. If it is built right, and the thrust bearing cap is set perfect(cut out of the girdle), it will should not walk. Even 6bolts walk if the thrust bearing is not aligned correctly.