how do i do this?

[blacktsi95]

im trying to run a new oil feed line to a bulls eye t04b turbo. i want to run the line from the head. what fittings do i need and how where do i get them?

 

[drewvr4]

dont run from the head, not enough oil pressure...run from the oil filter housing.

 

[Rice Over Wheat]

Uh no...DO NOT run from the filter housing because it is too much pressure! Bullseye designs its Borg Warner cores to optimally run with 40psi oil pressure. Take it directly from Bullseye's techs:

http://www.bullseyepower.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=113

When rebuilding engines, most people think they need a High-Pressure oil pump. Oil is great but, you can have to much. Once you go above 80psi you are probably taking horsepower from you engine. No to mention all the oil is probably going to end up in you valve cover with no time to drain back to the pan. (That's a different topic we won't talk about that.)

If you put an after market pump in the engine your turbo will probably smoke. You only need about 20psi of oil at idle for a turbo. If you are pushing up in the 60psi range, you will most likely flood the bearing hsg. The oil will not have time to drain out the return line.

You're not out of luck though. There is a simple fix. Only if you determine that you have too much oil pressure. You can put in an oil restrictor. Its just a plug with a small hole. The holes vary. I like to start out with a .100in then slowly step it down to a .075in. If the turbo is still smoking with a .075in then you need to start looking at the return side.

http://www.bullseyepower.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12

Bearing Failure:
Bearing failure is usually an oil problem. If there is oil starvation there will be an extreme amount of heat. It does not take long for a turbo to fail from lack of oil. This is probably the most popular failure in the rebuild business. The oil lines get gummed and plugged. I can stress this enough. CHANGE YOUR OIL LINES! =). Most of the oil passages in the bearing housing are less then .60in in diameter. So a chunk of dirt or coked oil can plug it fast.
Any contamination of the oil will imbed its self in the bearings, causing scoring and failure to the internal parts. This also includes coolant. Antifreeze and brass don't get along very well.
Too much oil can be a problem. If you are pushing oil pass the seals it will burn up in the turbine side. After a wile that will turn in to hard carbon deposits and coked up oil. If you have to much coked oil in the turbo, the good oil can't drain out properly.
This will cause more oil to push pass the seals. After a wile the oil will burn up on the backside of the heat shield pushing it into the turbine wheel. The burnt oil can also get a holed of the turbine piston ring, causing it to spin with the shaft.
OK enough about oil. I can go on all day. Hehe.

http://www.bullseyepower.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=78&highlight=oil+pressure

There are several factors that dictate spool up

Reduced Inertia, which is impoved by the extended tip designed compressor wheel.

A/R of the turbine housing.

Number of blades and blade pitch of the turbine wheel.

Oil Pressure at the turbocharger, optimum is 25-40 psi at redline for best spool.

 

[blacktsi95]

so whats the final word?

 

[tom04841]

Go from the head. This is what i did. I have a spare banjo fitting and -3 line for cheap if you are interested.

 

[drewvr4]

i see what it says and that could be used either way

i dont agree with pulling it from the head using an aftermarket turbo, but do what you wish.

 

[2gAWDTalon]

If you want to pull from the head you can use the front port. Get a 1/8th NPT male to -4an male adapter ten you can screw your -4an line directly into that adapter. You will get about 40psi from the head.