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FP 3" Turbo inlet pipe and EGR question

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Generation X

15+ Year Contributor
504
6
Aug 12, 2003
Asheville, North Carolina
I just installed an FP 3" turbo inlet pipe and noticed that FP doesn't add a connector, and or nipple on the intake for me to hook up the EGR line back into on the 3" turbo inlet pipe like there is on the stock 2g turbo inlet pipe. I only have the connection for the BOV to recirculate back into.

The question I have is there going to be any adverse effects of me just leaving this line unhooked other than smelling the exhaust fumes more, or is there going to be boost leaks, tuning issues etc. because I just got my first CEL light yesterday?

Also... I really don't want to have to remove my EGR system because emissions testing where I live at are becoming more strict, and I'm already running without a cat, so I don't want anything else to have to deal with when it comes to emissions testing if possible.

Mods are in my profile if needed, and I appreciate any advice that anyone can throw at me.
 
I just installed an FP 3" turbo inlet pipe and noticed that FP doesn't add a connector, and or nipple on the intake for me to hook up the EGR line back into on the 3" turbo inlet pipe like there is on the stock 2g turbo inlet pipe. I only have the connection for the BOV to recirculate back into
I assume you mean the FP 4' cast intake pipe?

The only connections missing are the one to the valve cover breather and the one to the charcoal canister (collects gas tank fumes). The latter may throw a CEL on the 2G (does not on my 1G), but has nothing to do with the EGR system :dsm:
 
I assume you mean the FP 4' cast intake pipe?

The only connections missing are the one to the valve cover breather and the one to the charcoal canister (collects gas tank fumes). The latter may throw a CEL on the 2G (does not on my 1G), but has nothing to do with the EGR system :dsm:
Yes... that's the one, and sorry for the mis-cue there I stand corrected. It is a 4" inlet pipe, for some reason I was thinking 3" since I have the coupler that reduces it down to 3".

Anyways... that sounds good, so all I will have to deal with is the added fumes that are lurking through my sunroof on warm days then, unless I drill a hole and have a bung welded on it, that is.

Thanks for the info, I really apprecaite it!!
 
DSM is correct, its not your EGR its the Valve cover breather and Charcoal Canister. Also no it won't throw a CEL.
Hmmmm... for some reason I got a PO400 CEL yesterday from it not being connected I assumed at the time, because I just upgraded from a FP Big28 to the Green a couple of months ago and I'm just now getting around to start trying to tune it, and I never got this light when I had the B28 installed.

That's not to say that there could be something else wrong, but it's just strange how the CEL all of a sudden came on after about a week or more of driving it on low boost to make sure everything was hooked up fine, and that there were no oil leaks. I've already had to replace my EGT probe, and a upstream O2 sensor. They both mysteriously crapped out on me right after the install.
 
Anyways... that sounds good, so all I will have to deal with is the added fumes that are lurking through my sunroof on warm days then, unless I drill a hole and have a bung welded on it, that is
I've heard some emissions centers test for the presence of fuel vapor when they do the gas cap pressure test, though not in my state. If really worried, a simple brass 1/8 NPT screw-in hose barb could be easily installed inconspicuously on the underside of the pipe ;)

Hmmmm... for some reason I got a PO400 CEL yesterday from it not being connected I assumed at the time, because I just upgraded from a FP Big28 to the Green a couple of months ago and I'm just now getting around to start trying to tune it, and I never got this light when I had the B28 installed
May want to check the vacume lines that go to the EGR and thermovalve (if equipped) to make sure they are connected properly as may have them mixed up / knocked off from the turbo install :dsm:
 
I've heard some emissions centers test for the presence of fuel vapor when they do the gas cap pressure test, though not in my state. If really worried, a simple brass 1/8 NPT screw-in hose barb could be easily installed inconspicuously on the underside of the pipe
Are you referring to the 4" intake pipe if I were to drill a hole in it?

I haven't ran across any type of gas cap pressure testing procedures as of yet.

They just do the regular OBD2 port scan here in NC where I live, blinkers, lights, tires etc. also.

Could I just maybe plug the hose that goes to the charcoal canister and not deal with any fumes at all, or would that cause a major pressure issue in the gas tank?
 
Are you referring to the 4" intake pipe if I were to drill a hole in it?
Yep.

Could I just maybe plug the hose that goes to the charcoal canister and not deal with any fumes at all, or would that cause a major pressure issue in the gas tank?
Plugging the line from the tank will create pressure in the tank and restrict the fuel return. Just leave it connected to the canister and remove the vac line that would other wise connect to the intake (or better yet remove the canister but leave the tank vent line open to ATM) :dsm:
 
Ok then... I think I will do what you said and drill a hole on the underside of the FP 4" intake pipe and tap it with a 1/8 pipe tap, connect a barbed fitting and then connect the hose back like how it was on the stock turbo inlet pipe, and call it a day hopefully.

I just want to be on the safe side of things when it comes to the emissions testing since there starting to get more stricter now days, because I can just swap my stock dp and cat back on if I have to for the OBD2 emissions port scan.

I just didn't want to have something else to deal with when it came to the emissions testing, and plus I wanted to make sure that by me having it unhooked that it didn't effect performance at all, just more fumes is all.

Thanks for all the info I really appreciate it!! :thumb:
 
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