2.3 Stroker Engine

[Sartuche24]

Okay this the first time that I've seen a place that offers a 2.3 stroker 4G63. I would like hear everybody's thought on this engine. It's sounds like a pretty awesome engine IMHO. They also offer Cryogenic freezing of car parts including the whole engine. It makes everything stronger and less likely to break down. I'm wondering but this might help us 2G not develope that damn crankwalk because the bearings are strengthened and the crank also, possibly making the crank less likely to wear away. If that is true then I'll probably get the block done by them. Also they due the fully connected thing on the block which means the freeze it to -300 degrees for about 36 hours which makes the block almost bullet proof. Imagine having this done to the tranny. Heres the address.

 

[AW4G63]

Thats crazy! As far as the 2.3 I think thats what they do to the evo's over sea's. they love that! I've seen it and I would like to do it when I got the supporting mods.

 

[larryd]

a stroker would be bad but damn thats expensive

 

[g96nt]

buschur has been running 2.3L Strokers for a while...and I'm fairly sure his process Is similar.

a little "interjection" :

magnus is having some luck using straight up 2.4L bottom ends, and DOHC heads. using custom rod/pistons... 9:1 CR, too!. If I remember correctly, they just built a 1gina2g making about 600 HP on street gas.
they're using an old 6-bolt 2.4L block.

doing so, utilizes a 12mm longer Stroke, and 1.5mm larger bore.

for a few years now, I've been ranting about how able the 2.4L galant/spyder motor is. unfortunately, very few have gone "full-boat" and use a complete 2.4L block, instead of just a crank in a 2l block.

there has been a rash of people turbo'ing the SOHC galant/spyder motors and doing pretty well.

I just got off work early...... I'll Check back in on this later....

 

[Sartuche24]

Well I wrote FFWD and asked them a question heres the email I sent, and with the reply from FFWD.

In a message dated 6/2/2002 11:11:22 AM Central Daylight Time, [email protected] writes:



Okay I just have a question on having the block "connected". Would this possibly reduce the chance of getting crankwalk on a 2G. I was thinking that it would since the crank and bearings are strengthened and allowing them to handle a little more stress. I just wanted to know if you guys have looked into this and if so what are the results. I would love some feedback on this because I'm wanting to have the whole block done. Thanks in advance.



I wouldn't go as far as saying it would cure the problem of crankwalk but it would reduce the chance of it if you must continue to use the 2G block. It's not really a thrust bearing failure in itself issue but more of a lack of lubrication of that bearing coupled with the fact of using high pressure clutches and whatnot.

8-10 callers inquiring about our race motors are 2G guys so what does this tell you? I would highly recommend saving your money on the cryo process of your 2G block and convert your car over to accept the 6 bolt crank motor. It will be more reliable, more effecient and pocess a highly reduced chanced of crankwalk. I look at it this way. You obviously plan or do have your 2G block stripped down so why not go a little further and eliminate the problem entirely by sticking the 6 bolt in there?

Of course, we can help you with a buildup as such. All of our motors built here are based off of the...you guessed it...the 6 bolt crank platform. Won't even touch the 2G stuff because we don't feel it to be a good thing of taking thousands of dollars of people's money to build up a 2g motor, and have it fail on them prematurely.

I appreciate your inquiry!

Darren King
FFWD CONNECTION
Ph: 918.836.FFWD
"If it doesn't make power, it's not worth the hour."

 

[AWDkitkat]

better man than me. i would hve just took your money.
hes totaly right though. just swap in a 1g and be rid of crankwalk forgood

 

[rdrkt]

Originally posted by larryd
a stroker would be bad but damn thats expensive

For a 6 bolt it isn’t as bad as you would think. I am deciding what am going to do for my next motor and I am torn on what I want to do but I am almost positive its going to be a stroker. You can get a 4g64 crank for around 150 bucks and custom pistons from Ross aren’t that much more expensive than the off the shelf piston. So you have added maybe 300 bucks more to the cost of whatever motor you are looking at not too bad for the gains your getting.

Same thing if you are a 2g guy that needs a new motor because the 7bolt sucks so bad. It isnt that much more than a normal built motor.

 

[JET]

I was looking into a stroker motor a year ago and talked to a couple of guys that had them. The one problem with them is that they make too much torque. The drive train doesn't like it and they couldn't keep them together for very long. The numbers were very impressive though. Like 430 hp and 570 lb/ft of torque. The torque came on about 1k rpm sooner than a 2.0 too.

 

[rdrkt]

Having too much torque is like having to many supermodels want to date you. I will just live with the consequences.

 

[g96nt]

everyone looks at strokers.... why not just use a 2.4L block!?
you won't have to touch bearings, or cranks... you have no oil-squirters to Worry about being "clogged" and causing crankwalk. you can use the bigger bore without Re-sleeving.and no need to shave pistons for clearance.

the only drawback to using a stock 2.4L bore/stroke is that the highest beneficial RM in the motor is only around 7900, crank-limited. However, with The setup you'd be using, you would realize all HP, and torque closer to 7000, than 8000, anyways.

this is similar To the setup jeff carpenter had used "back in the day".
=0/
and Again.. it's the setup magnus is using now.

'eh...

 

[rdrkt]

I think the big problem is finding the correct 4g64 block because there are a million varieties. If I could find a used 6 bolt block I would jump on it.

 

[g96nt]

the blocks Are all the same... it's the heads That are different...
just like there are 400 versions of the 4g63

SOHC, DOHC, and Turbo.. Even the old carb'd 4g63's

the basics remain the same.

 

[rdrkt]

Originally posted by g96nt
the blocks Are all the same.

Actually no. There are 6 bolt and 7 bolt blocks and there are a lot of variations even with those two types like engine layout. There is about a dozen Mitsu part numbers for the same 4g64 motor. Some will accept a DOHC head and fit in easily others wont. Just because your Galant had the right motor doesn’t not mean they are all the same.

 

[g96nt]

here's An example.... The 4g64 for the DOHC galant GS, and 4g64 For the sohc "everything else"

since The earliest galant/spyder motors Are from 94, they Are all 7-bolt.

colts, expos, and summits.... I have No Experience with. Soon, that may change.

however....same block, bore, Stroke

different pistons(10:1 instead of 9.5:1)
and there is an oil-drain "tube" that isn't present in the SOHC heads.
this isn't a pressurized tube, and a few people have been Able to just block it.

aside From that.. *SAME*

which Would all Account for teh different part #'s
since mistu sells them "complete" with rods/pistons

 

[Pennywise]

so you could just get the 4g64 crank with custom pistons and you have yourself a stroker?

 

[Kyle90GSX]

Originally posted by g96nt
you have no oil-squirters to Worry about being "clogged" and causing crankwalk.

Think about that before you say it. the oil squirters do more good than they ever will do bad. Those oil squirters help cool the pistons which results in you being able to run more boost, why do you think some honda's can't run as much boost as we do even with having the block completely reworked and sleeved? One of the reason's is the lack of oil squirters (with the exception of Vtec motors, but they dont do great with boost to begin with, they lean out too much in high RPMs).

As far as the 4g64 goes. Just call FP and order a crank from them and have them knifeedge it and turn it and what not. It's worth the price and you can get it and just drop it straight into your 6 bolt motor. You'll need custom pistons tho (I recomend JE, only about 100 more to make customs).

Another thing that puzzles me is what you were originally talking about with building your 7 bolt. Why oh why would you even take the chance. Building a 7 bolt is one of the most pointless things you could ever do. It's a time bomb, not to mention the ports on the head are signifacantly smaller. No matter what you do, "freezing" or whatever, it's still got the possibility of walking. It's a flawed design, it cant be corrected without going to a 6 bolt. Not all 7 bolts walk, but for the most part, they do. But for the sake of common sense, why even make the gamble?

The 6bolt into a 2g isn't new knowledge anymore. It's been done many times and basically perfected. A BIG thumbs up goes to whatever company you were talking to for being honest and telling you to just go 6 bolt. They could have just taken your hard earned cash and denied all liability if it walked.

Anyway, hopefully some of this info helps, some of it was already stated, but it's my .02.

 

[ItsStockOfficer]

so wait....Is there any reason I can't get a Galant 2.4 liter DOHC , put in forged pistons and rods, drop it into my 1g, use the a 1g cam angle sensor on the head and bolt on all my turbo #@%#@%#@%#@%?

7gina1g kinda thing?

Sean

 

[Pennywise]

what is the strength of the 4g64 crank? I'm going to get a 91 awd tsi and the first thing I was going to do is build the motor. I was just going to get ross 9:1 pistons, eagle rods, valves, springs and rets. I won't push over 25-30psi so I think those mods are good for that amount of boost. but if I could get a 4g64 crank for 200 and 150 more for custom pistons.... why not just do that? I just don't want to put it together and have it blow up. BTW is alamo autosports in arlington any good? thanks.

 

[Kyle90GSX]

ItsStock, I believe some people have used the cranks from the galants but here's where you get stuck. Your galant block doesn't have oil squirters which will make the pistons more prone to heat and it WILL detonate more often than a 4g63. Just get a 6 bolt block and put the crank in it, it'll be fine.

Pennywise, I've never heard of any street cars breaking a crank. I've got a couple friends using the 2.3 strokers and so far none of them have had any problems. Wether it's a stock crank or a stroker crank, it will hold up just fine. Our cars aren't big blocks that make massive amounts on NA low end torque, so we dont have to worry about cranks.

 

[nothing stock]

If you want it do it, cost is about equal and reliablilty is about equal. If you don't know the pros/cons you shouldn't even be thinking abou it.

 

[cprracing]

Does anyone now how much just the stroker kit costs without them putting it in? Ive been looking into it and i think that im goin purchase this and put it in my 1g sometime this year.

 

[ItsStockOfficer]

Is your engine blown? Its not a mod to go out of your way to perform...

 

[Kyle90GSX]

Originally posted by ItsStockOfficer
Is your engine blown? Its not a mod to go out of your way to perform...

Agreed, there are many worth while mods that should be done long before this one. I wouldnt recomend doing it right now unless you were making some serious power and begining to question your bottom end.

 

[trader]

do the 92 7 bolts get the crank walk like the 2g 4g63 7bolts? asking cause i plan to stroke out 92 7bolt or a 91 6 bolt? have both but leaning towards stroking the 91 6 bolt.

 

[ItsStockOfficer]

The 6 bolt is all around stronger and more reliable. 1g 7 bolts have been known to crank walk, but nothing like 2g's. I would never build a 7 bolt though, if it could be avoided