i want bullet proof hp

[Brodie]

I have a non-turbo 4g63 sitting in my garage. I did an engine swap in my esi and put the turbo motor in.

Now, i want to build a bullet proof engine to put in next.

My first question is. What do i have to have done to the block to make it a 4g63t?

Next -

- What pistons should i buy? What else should i modify within the engine?(what other internals? - crank, balance shaft, rods, anything..)

- What cams, valves, rockers, and cam gears shoud i get?

- What GEN intake should i use?

- What else should i take into consideration in making the engine what i want it?

Any and all help will be apperciated, even if its "go buy a 4g63t". thanks

 

[Nick 4g63]

4g63 with proper maintanence (timing belt, water pump, oil changes, etc) is bullet proof until ~450HP....until then no need to lift the valve cover

 

[jltcat]

- What pistons should i buy?
JE forged Pistons Pauter Rods HKS cams any cam gear


- What GEN intake should i use?
???

- What else should i take into consideration in making the engine what i want it?
Turbo (look at efficiency islands to find the one that is suitable for you)

 

[V8SHME8]

The engine that you have now is the same block yes but the internals are different from the turbo 4g63s. It has higher compression pistons so you will need to change to something like 8.5:1. I would just buy a package deal. Some of the companies out there sell rods and piston sets like www.diamondstarmotorsport.com. They sell a wiseco piston/ eagle rod combo for 835. It does not matter too much what brand you get as long as it is forged. You can get 2nd gen pistons and 90 rods from www.turbotrix.com for a good deal if you are trying to save money. You should probably go with the 1 gen intake manifold. The cams that you have now have too much overlap is I am not mistaken, so you should get some different cams also. The 1 gen cams will work fine, but after market might be easier to come across.

 

[Brodie]

ok, just to claify here. Remember i already have the turbo its in my car now. And my goal right now is to have a 12 sec car on a stock turbo.

-KNOCK SENSOR what do i do about the lack of one on the turbo block

-front end case with oil pump....they differ between the 1st gen turbo and NT

-block internals....balance shaft? crankshaft? should either of those be modified as well?

-i read somewhere that the angles on the valves can be changed to be made more efficent. Is this true and where can i get specs for it?

-Is there any reason to use stainless steel valves?

-forged pistons, rods, HKS cams, and 1st gen intake...those are what i have so far. Which HKS cams should i use? and im thinking eagle rods and JE pistons

 

[InferiorWang]

i thought the nonturbos had a lack of necessary oil lines running through the block and that made it difficult to turbo the nonturbo 4g63's and make them strong. anyone else hear anything about this?

 

[Brodie]

--yeah i heard something about that too.. I think im going to buy a bare turbo block from the junk yard. But then again i still would like to know about the cranks and balance shafts.

 

[danthman3]

the nonturbo block lacks the oil squifters and is supposedly not as strong as the nt
i would grab a turbo block (and basically a whole turo longblock but i think you have most of that)
eliminate the balance shafts
the internals you picked (pistons and rods esp) should be more than adequate for your goals (you could even go cheaper with a 90 rod 95+ piston set-up for 12's or into 11's)
def 1st gen intake
hks 264int and 272 exh is the most common (or 264/264)

my best overall advice is look at other cars that have done the times you want and take some cues off them
good luck

 

[1_vicious_gsx]

Originally posted by Brodie
--yeah i heard something about that too.. I think im going to buy a bare turbo block from the junk yard. But then again i still would like to know about the cranks and balance shafts.

It sounds like you are wanting to get more than 450hp (since you don't want to leave it stock) so buy a good set of forged rods & pistons. Get a balance shaft eliminator kit and balance the rotating assembly (pistons, rods & crank). ARP stud the block for the mains and head. If you have to buy the block & crank, then I would just buy a ready to run built short block. They can range anywhere from $2400-3000. Those deals are pretty hard to beat. Get the HKS 264/264 or 264/272 cam combinations depending on how streetable or how fast you want it to be.

 

[Brodie]

well, i dont have the 2500 to buy a ready made engine so i have to do this one piece at a time for the next few months

In that case, i just bought the turbo block. When i send my head and intake to the machine shop to get the porting and polishing done is there anything else i can have them do that will help increase my efficency?

should i use stock valves and retainers or go with an upgrade. and what are the differences in cams...264/272 and 264/264 which one will do what for me. Ive never done this before so i need a little guidance.....

 

[1_vicious_gsx]

Originally posted by Brodie
When i send my head and intake to the machine shop to get the porting and polishing done is there anything else i can have them do that will help increase my efficency?

should i use stock valves and retainers or go with an upgrade. and what are the differences in cams...264/272 and 264/264 which one will do what for me. Ive never done this before so i need a little guidance.....

There are many DSM shops that offer head work in stages (i.e. stage 1, stage 2, stage 3, etc.). It really depends on how fast you want to go, what the rpm range will be on your engine (i.e. how high you want to go with the rpm's) and how much $$$ you have available to spend. There is an advantage to doing port, seat & valve work. Just ask them what gains you will get with their stages of work. Springs & retainers are used based on the red line you plan to run with. Get over 8000rpm you should consider replacing them.

HKS cams are identified by the advertised duration of the valve being open in degrees of crankshaft rotation. When people say 264/264, 264/272 or 272/272 they are referring to which cams are being used (i.e. intake/exhaust). the 264/264 combination is a very streetable combination that works very well at making good power to red line where as the factory cams start to fall off before red line. The 272/272 combination makes alot of power, but it moves the usable rpm range up higher than what 90% of the street driven cars will be able to handle. They also reduce vacuum at idle which causes a very lopy idle and poor low rpm drivability. The 264/272 combination is a compromise between the 2 different grinds. You get better low speed driving and response with the 264 intake cam while the 272 exhaust cam will allow more power through the upper rpm's. The 264/272 is the "trick" combination everybody likes to run. Hope this helps clear that up for you.

 

[HighPsi91]

The non-turbo 4g63 block is the same as the 4g63t with the exception of lacking oil squirters and different pistons. Other than that everything else is the same. The heads are also the same except for the cams. NT cams are slightly different. I have already put a bone stock NT motor in a 91 AWD with stock turbo, injectors, IC, etc.. and its gone high 12's.