RANDOM MISFIRE help me out

[Tenacious2G]

I did a 6 bolt swap and I need to restart my car every couple minutes because the cas shuts off a cylinder. It does the same in my little brothers car and I know it is a common problem. Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

[staticbrainwash]

I had bad injector and spark issues when i first got my 92 and it did the same thing.

As for the 6bolt, i'd make sure the CAS is hooked in right and all the wiring is in order. But i'd look into fuel and spark first.

 

[Spidey]

The only fixes currently known are DSMlink(which disables the misfire check), and the Magnus method: http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/article_1g2g.htm (bottom of the page)

 

[SoonToBeDSM06]

I had the same problem when I bought myc ar with the 6 bolt in it. I went trhough a starter because of it. I tried the Pot mod but it screwed with my A/F ratio and almost screwed up the motor pretty bad. I then tried the black top CAS and it helped A LOT. But I still had RM every once in a while. Like with the 90 CAS it heppend maybe 10 times a night. It happend about 1 time a week with the black top CAS. So you can try that first and make sure the CAS isn't 180* off.

 

[v2ner]

Those things are also called resistors. You can also use it to fix the Fuel Trim Malfunction CEL too, hmmm...

 

[trebornash]

OK now either tell me in this thread or start a new one explaining how to get rid of my PO170 (fuel trim malfunction). w/resistors?O2 simulator does the same thing right?

 

[gsxtacy]

I am curious. Does altering the Barometric pressure input, affect anything else?

Curious if the Potentiometer Fix is a band-aid or a miracle. I am currently using a 91 CAS in my 98 GSX, and I get a RM CEL everytime I drive the car.

 

[Spidey]

We're going to add resistance to this value so that the ECU will see less barometric pressure than what there really is. This will also lean the car out so you should see a performance increase as well. Depending on the car and altitude you might need to add more fuel with an AFC.

And to answer your second question, I would say it is a band-aid fix, while DSMlink is the miracle

 

[v2ner]

DSMLink and Autronic are miracles.

 

[Ultimatedsm]

DSMLINK is what I used to help aid to run my 6 bolt. Well end result was it runs better then ever, even better then my 7 bolt. DSMLINK all the way baby!

 

[jasteel13]

if you are running a 2g head on a 6 bolt.. i would recommend a head swap or dsmlink... that is the only safe way i have found to get rid of the random misfire

 

[steve-o_95_GST]

What would a head swap have to do with RM? To my understanding its an issue with the sensor being from a different car. Nothing else on the head that I can think of would effect it. I just got back from the first out-of-town drive on my 6 bolt rebuild and I got RM. How much leaner does the pot. mod make your car run? I also *plan* on gettting dsm link early this summer but until then, my dsm is my daily driver.

-Steve

 

[larsrya8]

The later sensor (Hall-effect) is supposed to be more accurate than the earlier sensor... at least according to RRE. I don't know if that means that it'll cause less codes though. An earlier discussion mentioned that this will probably happen regardless because of the vibration inherent in getting the angle from the cam (rubber timing belt, cam "resistance" from the lobes, etc).

 

[Ultimatedsm]

The later sensor (Hall-effect) is supposed to be more accurate than the earlier sensor... at least according to RRE. I don't know if that means that it'll cause less codes though. An earlier discussion mentioned that this will probably happen regardless because of the vibration inherent in getting the angle from the cam (rubber timing belt, cam "resistance" from the lobes, etc).

The Hall effect (Black LID) CAS will most likely get rid of your missfire due to the sensor being a high resolution sensor unlike the other optical ones. However, they are very hard to find and cost around $300-500 USD from Mitsu and Chrysler charges around $800 USD .

 

[gsxtacy]

Can anyone straight up answer MY question here?

 

[PieEyedPiper]

I can't answer it, but I too would like to know.

I have a 7bolt that gets this Rm everytime I get on the highway. If I stay below 3krpm or above 3krpm it works fine.
But if I getg close to 3krpm (ideal hwy speed in 5th gear) I'll throw a code.

The only thing that seems to work is having the A/C on. And yes, I'm serious. For whatever reaosn keeping teh A/C on will make sure I never get the code.