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Changed belt. Now have problems with misfiring. HELP!!!!

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-DSM2NR-

15+ Year Contributor
602
12
Dec 9, 2005
Tucson, Arizona
I've just changed my timing belt, balance belt, and alternator belt. Well, I put everything back together making sure every pin and mark lines up correctly. I turned the engine 6 times manually to make sure the marks stay where they are supposed to. So then , I went for a drive and noticed that the car misfires pretty badly when I step onto it and change from 1st to 2nd. The misfiring however happens only if I floor it, not always (sometimes it doesn't even occor when I floor it).
What can be the problem? I don't know if this has anything to do with it but when I did the belt change I also cleaned my lifters and replaced the stock bov with a greddy type-RS.
There's one more thing you should know. The car did backfire even before the belt change but never as viliontly as it does now, jerking the car back and forth.

HELP!!!!!!!!!:(
 
I would recheck the marks after driving the car. If you didn't set the auto tensioner right you make have skipped a tooth. Also did you put a timing light on to see if the car is in time.
 
the timing marks are 100% correct. I didn't put a timing light on, might that be causing the problem? And where can I get it anyways and how much does it cost? Will I have to remove everything again in order to do this?
 
4g63tsiawd said:
Also did you put a timing light on to see if the car is in time.

A timing light will check ignition timing, and ignition timing is something that cannot be changed on a 2g unless a 1g CAS is installed. Valve timing is what you would be interested in after a timing belt install, but it sounds like you covered your bases there. Is it a "mis-fire" or a "back-fire?" As always, though.... Check your plugs and do a boost leak test. If the car misfired before the new BOV install and does it worse afterward, you may have had a boost leak before hand and may now have one at your BOV.
 
Any CEL's? I would also recommend a boost leak since the behavious worsens during WOT, meaning more fuel being injected but not the right amount air being present due to the leak. Head over to Home Depot and make yourself a boost leak tester, it won't cost you more than $10.
 
I'll check for boost leaks. I doubt the bov is leaking since it's a greddy. The stock bov tents to leak but the Greddy shouldn't, right? Maybe it's because the screw is all the way set to "hard"? I don't know.

And there are no CEL's. I've reset the ECU once I changed the belt and bov.
 
check your plug wires going to your coilpack,the harness connections to the coilpack,and the harness connection to the transistor since you were messing around in an area close to it......check the connections with the car off although cause them badboys can light ya up....try wiggling the connections and restart the car to see if anything changes.
 
I think it's a boost leak too. The strange thing is that it doesn't always backfire once I hit WOT. It only does it sometime.
But how can I get rid of the leak if it's coming from the stock rubber piping or any other part?

I'll leak test it this weekend since I'm busy during workdays.
 
that sounds like your ignition is having a problem igniting. so check the plug gap, check for boost leaks. and if you have a foam filter, it will suck in and block the intake. something that took me months to figure out! LOL
 
I guess I wasn't thinking clearly earlier and forgot about this... Anyway, I'll start with checking your plugs first, its easier and would exhibit those type of behavior too. Check gap (.28in) then if its more than 6months I'd say just replace them anyway. If you're unsure of the condition of the plugs just post a pic of them here. Then, if the problem persists check plug wires if possible borrow a known good one so that you don't have to buy one. Let us know what happens then we'll move on from there.

97gstnick said:
that sounds like your ignition is having a problem igniting. so check the plug gap, check for boost leaks. and if you have a foam filter, it will suck in and block the intake. something that took me months to figure out! LOL
 
As I was driving my car today I've noticed that my boost went up to 17psi instead of the normal 16psi. At some point it even went up to 18psi. And when hitting WOT the gauge arrow bounced around from 16-18psi not holding boost well. I doubt boost creep is the problem since I'm still on the T25. I guess nothing is wrong with the plugs and wires. Are these signs of a boost leak?
 
I actually got some hard pipes thinking that it will solve my problem but it didn't.

The strange thing is that the misfiring and jerking only happens when i hit full boost. If I drive the car normally there is no problem..............
 
check your plug wires and you spark plugs, some thing happend to me after i cahnged mine, my marks all lined up and it ended up just being i didn't have a spark plug all the way down.
 
since you was messing around in the area of the transistor and the coil packs I would check to make sure you didnt accidently disconnect anything or loosen a wire out of the connectors in that area.
 
Have you rewierd your fuel pump? And also, if you're running 16psi on a t-25 maybe you're hitting fuel cut if you're on the stock fuel system. Just a couple things i can think of that wern't mentioned yet. Or maybe just over boosting that tiny a$$ turbo. Boost leak test, rewire your pump.
 
It sounds like your spark plugs are gapped incorrectly. If they are gapped to much when you hit boost it will blow the spark out. Depending on how much the gap is off it could happen at different amounts of boost. Also check to make sure your bov is not leaking and the vacumm lines are all correct for it. Good luck.
 
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