Cyclone Vacuum reservoir part number??

[SolidBoostTSi]

Would anyone with a Cyclone working or not working be able to give me the part number molded on the white vacuum reservoir? I can get JDM parts from libertyville mitsu but I need the part number for any thing to happen. It starts like MBxxxxx,MDxxxxx. PLEASE help me.

 

[sweet97]

Try www.JNZtuning.com
Mark-send them an email

 

[SolidBoostTSi]

Alright, after many long lonely nights of no sleep and sadness, (stupid DSM) I've got tht part number that most of us Cyclone Intake guys need. Most of us get these manifolds for the purpose of getting better low end torque and maybe a few more MPG. The problem is, some of them don't have the vaccuum reservoir that they need to operate properly. Here is that part number. MD125817 vacuum tank the 3rd gen Eclipses V6 have dual runner manifolds that operate in the same manner that the Cyclone does. I hope this helps a few people.

Solid

 

[Defiant]

The problem is the control, not the vacuum accumulation.

 

[SolidBoostTSi]

I figured the Keydiver Cyclone controlled EPROM may already be a standard to some DSM'ers and the "Ken Inn method" may already be brought up. Too many people get Cyclones and give up because the vac reservoir is missing, so they trash them... I got 2 cyclones (one as a spare) because AMS had 2 for $25 a peice. They gave me a JDM TB too since I was gonna do the Taboo vac line removal.

 

[Agent11br]

What I did to get mine working was bought a RPM Activated Switch from summit (http://store.summitracing.com/defau...earchinresults=false&N=0&target=egnsearch.asp) part # SUM-830449

Since I run DSMLink V1 I dont have the Nitrous Controls which would be perfect for activating the FPR Solenoid. So I used the RPM switch instead. I like it because its not a permanent RPM point like the key driver chips and its not boost activating the runners. I currently have it set at 3800 RPMs w/ my b16g fully ported running 21 lbs and hitting full boost around 3100ish. From my research the EVO 3 RS came with it set at 4100.

It works awesome. I did the vacuum lines the "keydriver" way...

basically:

intake mani ------ white canister ------- fpr ------- butterfly valve


I really think people need to give it more credit. Its so typical of this board to bash something that one person either: cant setup right, cant get working right, or doesnt know anything about but "lets bash it anyways"

Around town I noticed a def. increase in low end torque, throttle response, and just overall "spunk" of the car.

I picked up the intake mani already polished, all the JDM vac lines and solenoids for $50 locally. And when I had to pull my head a while ago I slapped it on and havent looked back.

One thing to note!: with the Summit Switch is that I had to tap the white rpm wire off the igniter in the engine bay to get it to read an rpm signal correctly. Putting this in here for future searches...