turbonetics 60-1

[Slippi84]

I just got my hands on a deal for one of these bad boys with a fmic and I plan on getting 680-750cc injectors and tuning device(undecided yet). I have been searching and there isn't alot of people on here talking about the bigger turbos. I mean I see a lot of info about the 3052 and those turbos but i mean I can't find anyone with straight out experience and good info about how the 60-1's perform. The main things I want to know is what kinda WHP numbers are you guys puttin down. How is lag with something this big. How does it compare to these other turbos like agp and FP3052. My goal is was technicalls anywhere in the 11's but now that I got my hands on this thing and i will have the right suporting mods why not tune and see if i can touch 10's. I am no tuning guru but there is a guy around here with a shop called Percision Dynamics or something like that, that is. So yes I know tuning is the key but that's where he comes in

 

[definitiveno]

I just got my hands on a deal for one of these bad boys with a fmic and I plan on getting 680-750cc injectors and tuning device(undecided yet). I have been searching and there isn't alot of people on here talking about the bigger turbos. I mean I see a lot of info about the 3052 and those turbos but i mean I can't find anyone with straight out experience and good info about how the 60-1's perform. The main things I want to know is what kinda WHP numbers are you guys puttin down. How is lag with something this big. How does it compare to these other turbos like agp and FP3052. My goal is was technicalls anywhere in the 11's but now that I got my hands on this thing and i will have the right suporting mods why not tune and see if i can touch 10's. I am no tuning guru but there is a guy around here with a shop called Percision Dynamics or something like that, that is. So yes I know tuning is the key but that's where he comes in

600whp is possible, only a few get that much power though........it's a fantastic turbo.

 

[95AWD_TSI_TALON]

The 60-1 will not disappoint you. But keep in mind that it is needed to run atleast 22psi+ to get its true benifits. I ran a 60-1 for almost a year. It @20psi was a turd compared to 24psi which was another world. 11's are easly on a 60-1 w/ mods and a good driver. I full weight 2g/ pump gas went 12.01 without NLTS which actualy killed it inbetween gears tho. If you can get Dsmlink not just for the better tuning and capability of running the largest injector possible but also for NLTS helps out alot. Also just to keep in mind I was on 850cc's@43psi of fuel pressure hitting 97%IDC when I was flowing ~54lbs (little off due to translator)
Matthew

 

[Slippi84]

Yeah I have a light weight flywheel to so it looks like i def need NLTS. How much power were you makin cause from what I see this thing is a 10 sec turbo and 12 flat is good but i mean this thing sounds like it shames 50 trims. By the way I am a pump guy and I'm not trying to blow crazy money on gas (not like normal gas is cheap anymore) Mid-low 11's is prob where my goal is with what I have to work with.

 

[95AWD_TSI_TALON]

12 flat was pump gas set-up.....a 60-1 is a more race gas turbo needing more boost. I had toyed around one day and got 115 in the tank and retuned the car @30psi and its a HUGE difference. Pump gas is VERY limited on anything over a 50 trim to run safely or about 400hp tops.......now everyone dont flame up about DRE making 503 on pump.....he melted plugs inbetween EVERY dyno run.
Matthew

 

[Slippi84]

NO i wasn't flamin just trying to figure out why so I can correct it and reach the turbo semi-full potential. Still got stock bottom so limit for now is 500 awhp. But to be honest I coul live with 12 flat but i mean i know i can do better. Hell before this i has 1 15 16 second car so 12 flat is like warp speed to me .

 

[95AWD_TSI_TALON]

I wasnt saying you were flaming. I put that so everyone dosnt bring that up. I actualy just worded that backwards but its edited now.
Matthew

 

[Slippi84]

Oh ok but anyway the thing is I wanted a turbo with enought top end to negate the fact that i'm awd as much as possible cause with my 14b i got pulled on up top like crazy but my intial pull was realll nice. Now i know between lag and everythin i won't have that crazy pull but i was hopin that with a stutter box I could get out the whole pretty quick. What is your experience with how the 60-1 pulls from start to finish. Cause to be honest hp means nothing to me w/o times if i wanted hp with no E/T's would have got a dyno queen (SUPRA)

 

[drivemusicnow]

Hope this is not completely changing the direction of the thread, but i had a couple questions.

Why is the 60-1 so great a turbo??

I've heard so many amazing things about it, but by looking at what it IS exactly (housings, wheels) it just doesn't seem like it would be the best choice. I'm looking at it for a 2.4l motor and i think it will suit me quite well. however i'd like to know why this turbo works well enough for half of the DSM community to rave about it.

 

[definitiveno]

Hope this is not completely changing the direction of the thread, but i had a couple questions.

Why is the 60-1 so great a turbo??

I've heard so many amazing things about it, but by looking at what it IS exactly (housings, wheels) it just doesn't seem like it would be the best choice. I'm looking at it for a 2.4l motor and i think it will suit me quite well. however i'd like to know why this turbo works well enough for half of the DSM community to rave about it.

It makes alot of horse power, why else?

 

[SpoOLxExO]

It makes alot of horse power, why else?

He's right. Although the 60-1 isn't a great turbo. Hell its old enough to be your grandfather.

60-1's have been on pulling tractors since the dawn of time, BUT the damn thing just oozes horsepower when its pushed to 25+ psi on our 2 liter engines.

Compared to the new-school BB CHRA's, it takes slower to spool, and the housings aren't the most efficient. But like I say, it loves boost and gives you great numbers in return.

If I got a good deal on a 60-1, and I was in the market for a BB turbo. I'd give it a chance.

But if the deal was the same as say, buying a 3052 setup, prolly get some BB action for my money.

 

[Slippi84]

That's why I got the 60-1 because of 1 the deal and 2 I need a turbo that had the potential for a lot of HP so i could start with around 300hp just with bolting on and slight tuning and work up from there, because 300 is plenty for most ppl I will race on a daily basis. A turbo that maxes out at my goal is great but think about it by the tim eyou max out your turbo your power hungry for a upgrade. So i get a turbo that maxes out well past my goal and get to it right away and build up to my next goal.

 

[rowlex]

JUST this week I got my 60-1 on passed emissions and threw my 3" exhaust back on... went tuning with it and im tuning with dsmlink, I have plenty of fuel support.

Like everyone said the 60-1 is not pump gas friendly, I have a 24x12x3 intercooler, and I was getting what I consider a bunch of knock in the 5500+ rpm range at only 20psi. Im hesitant to go above 21psi as I dont want to grenade my engine with knock. Im pulling about 4* of timing to combat the knock.

For those with experience with this turbo...when running 25psi, was it on pump gas?? did you have a lot of knock?? I'd like more information that regards info on turning the damn boost up... Slippi this will be good info for you to so im not hijackin

DSMLink said at ~20-~21 psi I was flowing 38-41lbs/min and putting 240-250ish to the wheels.

Here are 3 datalogs... I have a lot of junk in my car, and my buddy was with me datalogging and he's a bid dude, so my ESTIMATED car weight is 3600lbs. So the HP calc is probably off a bit.
This one shows a pretty good 3rd and fourth gear pull
http://www.streetevolution.com/se_rides/1062694170734250/60-1log2.jpg?r=475337
this one shows my timing sliders
http://www.streetevolution.com/se_rides/1062694170734250/60-1datalog.jpg?r=137139
this one is a third gear pull 269 HP to the wheels on 21-22PSI
http://www.streetevolution.com/se_rides/1062694170734250/60-1log3.jpg?r=18966

 

[SpoOLxExO]

You have DSMlink and only run 650's?

I would be considering race-gas with the 650's before any more boost, or a set of 950's to maximise your pump gas tune with more boost.

 

[peregrine]

atl least 880 injectors. if you have dsmlink try 1100s.

 

[rowlex]

Sorry I havent updated my mods list, im running 780's. at 22psi i think they were at 72% IDC.

I am now in the market for water/alcohol injection

 

[definitiveno]

Sorry I havent updated my mods list, im running 780's. at 22psi i think they were at 72% IDC.

I am now in the market for water/alcohol injection

alcohol is chronic. Buscher has been having alot of success with their 100% alcohol kit, lots of big numbers coming out of the evo crowd who are using it.

 

[rowlex]

alcohol is chronic. Buscher has been having alot of success with their 100% alcohol kit, lots of big numbers coming out of the evo crowd who are using it.

Not to get off topic, but a local here just ran an 11.2 on pump gas + meth injection on a 2.4L w/ Red...which i think is about the same size as the 60-1.

But slippi you might as well pick up a water/alcohol injection kit as well

 

[Slippi84]

I was considering the Importpower Propane kit but other than that the other methods didn't really peak my interest. Anyway I am lookin to have a car that runs 11's solidly not a car you have to prep for 45 minutes and then get everything just right and cross your fingers. If this thing only puts down 270hp that will be a big problem. I mean I know I hear all the time if your not gonna run atleast 23psi with this thing sell it but I hope it puts down more than that. I was lookin at 20 psi daily and 25 race.

Guys what realy matters to me though is performance how do these things get up and go. We could sit here and put up dnyo sheets and logs showing good numbers but if the car don't do what it's suposed to in the real world than it doesn't matter. There are only 3 things that really matter to me while reaching for low e/t's

1. How fast does thing get out the whole:
I don't want a turbo that's gonna run 2.0 60ft's. These turbos might pull like a rapes ape but most races are lost out the gate.

2. With my light weight flywheel what kinda boost and power loss will I see in between shifts:
If i drop down off the turbo's effective rpm range and the car goes threw lag again than my top end won't be ass effective as it should be.

3. Where should I increase my redline up to to maximize this turbo's potential:
I Don't want to have a turbo that gets full boost by 4k and then shift at like 6.5k. Knowing that what kinda redline are you guys setting your cars to with this thing.


Again I have seen ppl many times run low times without gigantic dyno sheets. I'm not lookin for a turbo to go brag about i'm lookin to build a car that smokes 99% of the cars out there on pump gas without breakin a sweat. Unless they have no life and put every dime into their car like I do then they deserve it . DO I HAVE THE RIGHT TURBO FOR THIS?

 

[mirkoelek]

The 60-1 will not disappoint you. But keep in mind that it is needed to run atleast 22psi+ to get its true benifits. I ran a 60-1 for almost a year. It @20psi was a turd compared to 24psi which was another world. 11's are easly on a 60-1 w/ mods and a good driver. I full weight 2g/ pump gas went 12.01 without NLTS which actualy killed it inbetween gears tho. If you can get Dsmlink not just for the better tuning and capability of running the largest injector possible but also for NLTS helps out alot. Also just to keep in mind I was on 850cc's@43psi of fuel pressure hitting 97%IDC when I was flowing ~54lbs (little off due to translator)
Matthew

what is nlts? and how to set it up. i have dsmlink and i'm still learning how to use. i do have a lot of problems with basic settings like dead time , global and etc ...there is one more anoying problem, my car idles kinda ok when im on stop light . but if i rev and press clutch my car turns off.
thanks in advance

 

[rowlex]

from what I have read and experienced on my car this is not a pump gas turbo, if you want pump gas turbo get a fp 3052 and a HELLA nice fmic. If you want this turbo to work on pump gas, get some kind of injection. You saw my logs, i had an experienced tuner tuning it (he runs low 11's on a 3065).

Either run race gas or get some type of injection. EVEN the guys on dsmlink say this turbo is not pump-gas friendly because it moves a TON of air. It STARTS breathing at 25psi.

Dont worry about your launch and shit, or shifting, get dsmlink, and use the Ant-lag + stutterbox to launch, use NLTS for shifting.

JFYI at 21 psi im flowing the maximum amount you will see on a evoIII 16g....that is pretty impressive i must say. I have no cams either, my head/block is completly stock.

 

[Slippi84]

No Lift To Shift. You way out in no mans land lookin at a 60-1 forum and not knowing about NLTS . What it does is pretty much exactly what it says insteadof lifting off the gas an dacing back and forth with the clutch you just leave it floored and just press the clutch shift quick and get off the cluthc with your foot on the gass the whole time. This is to help keep big a$$ turbo's such as a "60-1" spooled and help deecrease lag. If you have a 16g or smaller I wouldn't even worry about NLTS.

 

[mirkoelek]

JUST this week I got my 60-1 on passed emissions and threw my 3" exhaust back on... went tuning with it and im tuning with dsmlink, I have plenty of fuel support.

Like everyone said the 60-1 is not pump gas friendly, I have a 24x12x3 intercooler, and I was getting what I consider a bunch of knock in the 5500+ rpm range at only 20psi. Im hesitant to go above 21psi as I dont want to grenade my engine with knock. Im pulling about 4* of timing to combat the knock.

For those with experience with this turbo...when running 25psi, was it on pump gas?? did you have a lot of knock?? I'd like more information that regards info on turning the damn boost up... Slippi this will be good info for you to so im not hijackin

DSMLink said at ~20-~21 psi I was flowing 38-41lbs/min and putting 240-250ish to the wheels.

Here are 3 datalogs... I have a lot of junk in my car, and my buddy was with me datalogging and he's a bid dude, so my ESTIMATED car weight is 3600lbs. So the HP calc is probably off a bit.
This one shows a pretty good 3rd and fourth gear pull
http://www.streetevolution.com/se_rides/1062694170734250/60-1log2.jpg?r=475337
this one shows my timing sliders
http://www.streetevolution.com/se_rides/1062694170734250/60-1datalog.jpg?r=137139
this one is a third gear pull 269 HP to the wheels on 21-22PSI
http://www.streetevolution.com/se_rides/1062694170734250/60-1log3.jpg?r=18966

dude i make more power with my evo16g

 

[rowlex]

what is nlts? and how to set it up. i have dsmlink and i'm still learning how to use. i do have a lot of problems with basic settings like dead time , global and etc ...there is one more anoying problem, my car idles kinda ok when im on stop light . but if i rev and press clutch my car turns off.
thanks in advance

ok im not gonna get into this too much as the directions for all this stuff are provided.. just look at the instructions that come with dsmlink.

NLTS = no lift to shit...u keep the gas to the floor during shifts (the wire included with dsmlink must be connected to the clutch/ecu) and it rev limits it to what you set it at during the shift.

go to your RPM dialog select the NLTS check box and set your RPM shift stutterbox.

Go to the dsmlink info file, look up your injectors run the dead time they suggest.

dont know why your car turns off at a stop, make sure you have the clutch wire wired correctly.

 

[rowlex]

dude i make more power with my evo16g

Maybe. But I have potential. Your out
I use to have an e316g, that thing felt like it had no power. AND this was my first time running the car with the new turbo on it. We only spent about a half hour tuning it.