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Battery relocation [Merged 3-8]

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You don't need a kit really. You can get the summit one but the battery box that comes with it is basically crap and should be thrown out. Then you need a sealed box from Moroso probably and then a switch. I use the generic Summit switch. The name brand switches cost like $89.00 for the exact same thing.

This isn't a cheap mod. But it frees up a lot of room. You need the switch or you won't be able to pass tech inspections at the track. Also the battery needs to be secured to the frame. If the box magically disapeard the battery still would need to be attached to the car. That's basically what the rule says.

To do it right:

Summit kit
Summit switch
Moroso sealed battery box
 
i was wondering what everyone's thoughts where on battery relocation. i saw a kit in summit's catolag for 40$. i figured i would put it in my back seat ( i took out my back seat for various reasons). another thing that was on my mind was weight distribution. since i am front wheel drive, should i leave the battery in the bay for the extra weight? this relocation is mostly about cleaning up the engine bay, i hate clutter. so chime in and tell me what you think. thanks
 
just get like 2gauge wire and run that for the wire from the positive on the bat to where the positve is under the hood. then take the one one under the hood and bolt it to the chassie, and then get a wire to run from the negitive on the bat to a bolt for where the rear seat belt holder thingy was. Then you could make a custom bracket to hold down the bat. I am awd, and got rid of my washer tank in the back and put the battery in there, holds in nice and tight. And when you do the egr removel and get rid of the cannister its lots cleaner under the hood.
 
i relocated the battery to the rear of the car. with start up
it idles real rough and i can see the voltage guage flicker sort of
up and down between 12-14volts for about 2-5 seconds then it runs
fine at 14volts. i am wondering if it has anything to do with the
relocation. i ran 1 guage pos. and neg. back to the rear and also
grounded it in the rear, and twice in the engine bay. anyone have
any ideas?

later,
brian
90gsx
91gsx
 
Originally posted by turbobrian
i relocated the battery to the rear of the car. with start up
it idles real rough and i can see the voltage guage flicker sort of
up and down between 12-14volts for about 2-5 seconds then it runs
fine at 14volts. i am wondering if it has anything to do with the
relocation. i ran 1 guage pos. and neg. back to the rear and also
grounded it in the rear, and twice in the engine bay. anyone have
any ideas?

later,
brian
90gsx
91gsx

hmm...i ran mine 0 or 1 guage for the postive all the way back, then just ran the ground to where the spare tire used to mount. i havent noticed any problems with mine
 
Originally posted by gritsak


hmm...i ran mine 0 or 1 guage for the postive all the way back, then just ran the ground to where the spare tire used to mount. i havent noticed any problems with mine

i grounded it there too. im not sure why im having this problem. maybe my alt is on its way out.

brian
90gsx
91gsx
 
:: Moderators :: Please feel free to move this if it is in the wrong place.

I'd like to hear what are some of the pros & cons of relocating the battery out of the engine bay.

ALSO!! Post your pics :) I'd like to see some of those clean remote batteries!
 
I don't know what the cons are...maybe less voltage to engine parts due to longer wire and more ohms...but I've been thinking of doing this myself...sounds good cause it balances out the car much better and gives much more underhood space to put nothing.
 
So I guess not many ppl have done this then? Or am I in the wrong forum . . .:rolleyes:
 
If you ever plan on drag racing you have to buy an NHRA approved box (moroso from summit $99) as well as have an external kill switch ($50). It's cheaper and much easier to just buy a 13lb dry cell battery and mount it in the stock location or on the front crossmember.
 
So are the redistributed weight gains really not all that much? ESP for a FWD vehicle?
 
I agree with NDgsx. I'm going to buy an Odyssey battery which weighs about 15 pounds and is half the size. I don't have an over powering audio system or anything so it should do the trick. To clean up the engine bay I might mount it inside the cabin out of the way come where. Putting this battery in the trunk however wouldn't be worth the weight of the power wires to the trunk. If you're doing it for weight reasons. The battery is about $90 at a battery warehouse. Optima also makes a battery now about the same size. I don't know its weight or specs, but I had an extra optima in one of my cars and didn't need a box for it. Later.
 
i think it is agreed upon that having good ground points can lead to an performance improvement and i have been interested in improving my grounding by fabbing my own kit and testing various places in my engine bay for resistance to see what needs regrounded.....the only problem i forsee is that my battery is in my hatch area and is grounded to my rear strut tower and am not looking forward to running the negative cable all the way to my engine bay

my question is: has anybody had positive improvements with simply grounding various points (sensors, valve cover, etc) to the frame?

next question: would it be beneficial to ground the above points to the ground on the alternator?
 
susposedly there have been power gains...it may help with starting of your car if you ground the starter better and the block better...and what not...just try it and tell us what you feel. Most people ^^^ don't believe in it and thats it. I really don't think it would do much either. But again try it...it may be worth it...tell us if the car runs better. Thats my concern...I doubt you can gain hp from it...but if the car runs smoother because Electricity within it can flow smoother...than thats a plus :thumb:
 
starting did become worse when i relocated the battery, i'm going to test areas with my new mutlimeter and ground them and let know you guys know....
 
I was determined not to move my battery to the trunk. In addition to all of the electrical grounding issues, you also must have an external kill switch, if you plan on racing it at the track. Not to mention that you must add around 10lbs in heavy cable…

So instead, I used a small lawn tractor battery ($18 from Walmart). Not only is it neatly out of the way, it is also much lighter. Between battery and stock battery brackets, I saved around 20lbs. Now, what would you rather do, add 10lbs or loose 20lbs? :).

Leon
RR
 

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^i may look into something like that, any noticable difference in cranking power?

although i added weight in cable, i removed the battery tray and platform, and was able to access the charcoal canister easily which i removed also

i do have a kill switch on my circuit breaker if that counts
 
i moved mine to the rear...not for any weight saving issues (because like said above it really doesnt save any)...but i did it because it cleans up the engine bay a little bit. thats where ive got my fjo unit mounted now (its tiny compared to the battery but it looks nice there) and ill also mount my ignition there if i ever get around to buying one.

i grounded mine to where the spare tire used to go. theres already a threaded bolt there from where the bracket held down the spare tire..i just grinded away the paint and bolted it there..works perfect.

plus its really easy to do a fuel pump re-wire with the batter that close
 
i was thinking about doing this also, i really want to clean up under the hood, getting rid of abs and moving battery to trunk would free up so much room, the length of cable to run from the front to the back would probably weigh closer to 5lbs i think, what size cable did you guys use, i think 8 would be enough, but 4 would be perfect
 
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