1g n/t fpr

[boostcrazy92tsi]

i was told that the 1g n/t fpr will bolt up to the turbo rail and will give u a little more fuel. its an increase in pressure right? is this do-able? just wondering since im gonna be able to get ahold of one for free and a can use a lil more fuel.

 

[Burnett03]

get a real FPR dont mess with the n/t one. If you really want more fuel pressure install at walbro 255 and have it overrun the stock regulator !

 

[Project ES]

The stock fpr for a n/t holds 43 psi and the stock turbo fpr hold 35 or 38(i forget). From what ive researched, using the n/t fpr will cause ur car to run really rich. I attempted it b4 i got all the bugs worked out on my own carand chaged it back to the stock turbo fpr b4 i actually found out how bad it was. Its not hard to change at all so i would suggest getting the part for free and swapping it and getting ur own evaluation. If things dont work out u can always switch back to the turbo fpr. Good Luck!! where in MI u from?

 

[boostcrazy92tsi]

im from armada. its about an hour north of detroit. yea im gonna switch to the nt reg just for kicks. all my trims are leaned out due to the removal of the lower honeycomb and restriction free intercooler piping. hopefully with the nt reg ill get my trims bumped back up and will see if it helps at wot to give me a little more fuel around 17 psi. i have a stealth TT fuel pump rewired so i have the fuel for the reg I just need either bigger injectors or possibly a lil more pressure. THANKS everyone

 

[Burnett03]

im from armada. its about an hour north of detroit. yea im gonna switch to the nt reg just for kicks. all my trims are leaned out due to the removal of the lower honeycomb and restriction free intercooler piping. hopefully with the nt reg ill get my trims bumped back up and will see if it helps at wot to give me a little more fuel around 17 psi. i have a stealth TT fuel pump rewired so i have the fuel for the reg I just need either bigger injectors or possibly a lil more pressure. THANKS everyone

don't bother, you wont like the results

 

[LessIsMore]

don't bother, you wont like the results

Why not? How about a little info to back up this statement instead of posting shit like this.

The NT fuel pressure regulator sounds like a cheap and easy way to get a little more flow out of undersized injectors. I've actually contemplated swapping in a NT fpr. You will need some sort of fuel control to compensate for the added fuel (AFC/Translator) and a datalogger.

Give it a try and let us know how it goes.

 

[Burnett03]

Why not? How about a little info to back up this statement instead of posting shit like this.

The NT fuel pressure regulator sounds like a cheap and easy way to get a little more flow out of undersized injectors. I've actually contemplated swapping in a NT fpr. You will need some sort of fuel control to compensate for the added fuel (AFC/Translator) and a datalogger.

Give it a try and let us know how it goes.

ok smart ass.. the turbo FPR is designed to hold 38psi base pressure. It's easily overruned and can see as high as almost 50psi at idle.. Now the N/T regulator is regulated at around 43psi.. Can you imagine what pressure you will see from it when it's overran? There are some things you can cut corners and go cheap on.. This isnt one of them.. Newbies...

 

[splattj]

Why not? How about a little info to back up this statement instead of posting shit like this.

The NT fuel pressure regulator sounds like a cheap and easy way to get a little more flow out of undersized injectors. I've actually contemplated swapping in a NT fpr. You will need some sort of fuel control to compensate for the added fuel (AFC/Translator) and a datalogger.

Give it a try and let us know how it goes.

You can get away with the N/T reg when you have a stock pump. Unfortunately, this won't keep the pump itself from maxing out its flow and leaving you with a lean condition under higher boost and revs. If you have an upgraded pump, the NT fpr will give you a base fuel pressure of ~55 with a Walbro 255 pump. Even with a SAFC and a translator, you won't be able to get your idle fuel trims lean enough. The guy behind you at the light will be cursing at you as his eyes water from the fumes. Then you cat will get clogged followed by your car exploding in a shower of flames and killing you instantly

J/K on the exploding thing

 

[LessIsMore]

ok smart ass.. the turbo FPR is designed to hold 38psi base pressure. It's easily overruned and can see as high as almost 50psi at idle.. Now the N/T regulator is regulated at around 43psi.. Can you imagine what pressure you will see from it when it's overran? There are some things you can cut corners and go cheap on.. This isnt one of them.. Newbies...

Newbie???

Go run some more 14's on your 60-1.

Did you see that he is running a 3000gt TT fuel pump? Why are concerning him with fpr over run when he's using a fuel pump which dosn't even over run the stock regualtor. Your post is totaly irrelavent.

 

[Burnett03]

Newbie???

Go run some more 14's on your 60-1.

haha... That my friend is called not getting into 3rd or 4th gear. You are welcome to come down here any time and line em' up.

 

[boostcrazy92tsi]

well ill make sure i let you 2 both know how my ZERO dollar attempt at getting more fuel goes. its not like im gonna break anything while taking off the reg. like i said my trims are as lean as they can get with my setup. im hoping to get my trims back to around 100 for all settings. i can watch my o2 trim max out at idle and still not have enough fuel to compensate. hopefully this shows some improvement.

Thanks

 

[Burnett03]

well ill make sure i let you 2 both know how my ZERO dollar attempt at getting more fuel goes. its not like im gonna break anything while taking off the reg. like i said my trims are as lean as they can get with my setup. im hoping to get my trims back to around 100 for all settings. i can watch my o2 trim max out at idle and still not have enough fuel to compensate. hopefully this shows some improvement.

Thanks

just because the trims lean out doesnt mean you need more fuel. Maybe you have boost leaks? Those wil rail fuel trims. Are you using a SAFC/gm maft? Maybe you have it to lean at idle. Check for boost leaks.

 

[DSMmania]

The problem with the NT FPR is that it's not a rising rate regulator, like the stock turbo unit. At idle you'll have a bit more fuel pressure, and up to when your boost comes on, you'll have more fuel, but once boost starts to come on (say around 5psi, 43psi on NT regulator compared to 38 1G stock regulator...)you'll start to go slightly lean, and the more boost you're running, the more lean it'll get, keep in mind the stock regulator is 1:1, so for every pound of boost, your FPR is to raise 1psi of fuel pressure to keep up with the added air. I've tried it back in the day (yes, we ALL try the cheap way out at first and end up re-doing it later). If you just want to raise the base pressure to 43psi (where 2g's start, and where aftermarket injectors are measured at), the B&M unit will work fine for you, however if you start moving a lot of air (20+ psi usually) you may want to turn DOWN the pressure, which it will not do for you. That is why a lot of people go for the Aeromotive unit (or the like) and use it for all your needs. Over running things refers to the rail, not the regulator. 70psi is about the most for a stock rail (38 psi + 32lbs. of boost roughly) can handle before you'd want to update it. I'd highly recommend doing the aftermarket regulator, then a stainless fuel feed line at minimum (tank to rail) and you won't need more for a long time unless you're going big dog, in which case, this whole thread is bunk.

Sorry for being long winded, watching tv and typing at the same time as my brain is working!

Curt
-SlowboyRacing.com

 

[BoostedTalonTS]

Hey Boostcrazy,
That isn't that bad of an idea as the others have attempted to illustrate...
A while ago, on NABR, I came accross a similar post that prompted me to form my own conclusions on the subject... -I was surprized to find out some very interesting results...

I compared the following Mitsu OE FPRs:
1G MT Turbo FPR (37.8 psi)
1G AT Turbo FPR (43.5 psi) (same as the NA DSMs)
1.5L NA SOHC Mitsu Mirage FPR (45.8 psi) (as was mentioned in that NABR post)

Having already gone through the injector size & risetime specs when I got a new EPROM, I was looking to get just a little bit more out of my set of Evo 8 560cc injectors. Having already started off with an AT (and it's FPR), I found that the NA 1.5L's FPR should give me the extra fuel that I was looking for... It did.

After adding in about another 2-4% on my old 5 knob SAFC, things are still going good (about 4k later). Fuel trims are all about 100-106% and knock is only a factor at anything above 18psi (possibly due to heatsoak of my Alamo SMIC, and crappy CA 91 octane gas). I would see bout 3-5 counts back before it started to get warm (ambient). Now, I see a bit more... 7-11 knock counts @ WOT (my next project will be a FMIC).

I run a MHI Evo3 16G, Denso 560cc injectors, and an Rx7's 223LPH Denso fuel pump, so your 180LPH out of that 3000GT fuel pump should work fine with an NA or Turbo AT FPR, if you can find one. -It should give you that little bump in FP that you are looking for without making an overly rich condition, provided that you have some way of compensating for the added FP.

 

[DSMmania]

The AT car's FPR should not cause a problem, as it should still be a rising rate unit. The NT unit from anything won't be, which is where the problem would arise.

Curt

 

[boostcrazy92tsi]

alright alright guys how about i get it and try it for myself. if it turns out to be a bust then no big deal. if it works then yay for me. i figured that the na reg wasnt a rising unit but i seem to be gettin mixed stories from people. only way to get it straight is to take the whole whopping 10 minutes to switch it and take a log.

 

[Brandon92DSM]

i was told that the 1g n/t fpr will bolt up to the turbo rail and will give u a little more fuel. its an increase in pressure right? is this do-able? just wondering since im gonna be able to get ahold of one for free and a can use a lil more fuel.

Im sure youve probably already acted or not acted at this point almost 2 months later. But to clear up up some lousy info being thrown around here, yes you can replace the stocker FPR with one out of a 1G 2.0 N/T to bump the base FP and gain some fuel if you need it. The 2.0 N/T FPR is also a rising rate design and will operate in the same fashion as the original one, however at about 11 psi higher base pressure. (~36 vs. ~47 psi). On certain setups this can be helpful, but you can run too much FP. Guys running insane boost levels (25+ psi) would probably need to turn their FP DOWN to stay within the limit of the injector's operating spec. (total pressure in the fuel rail = base FP + lbs of manifold boost.)

DSMTalk has some great threads on this very subject if you search for "n/t FPR" if you want more specifics.

 

[djpast]

The problem with the NT FPR is that it's not a rising rate regulator, like the stock turbo unit. At idle you'll have a bit more fuel pressure, and up to when your boost comes on, you'll have more fuel, but once boost starts to come on (say around 5psi, 43psi on NT regulator compared to 38 1G stock regulator...)you'll start to go slightly lean, and the more boost you're running, the more lean it'll get, keep in mind the stock regulator is 1:1, so for every pound of boost, your FPR is to raise 1psi of fuel pressure to keep up with the added air. I've tried it back in the day (yes, we ALL try the cheap way out at first and end up re-doing it later). If you just want to raise the base pressure to 43psi (where 2g's start, and where aftermarket injectors are measured at), the B&M unit will work fine for you, however if you start moving a lot of air (20+ psi usually) you may want to turn DOWN the pressure, which it will not do for you. That is why a lot of people go for the Aeromotive unit (or the like) and use it for all your needs. Over running things refers to the rail, not the regulator. 70psi is about the most for a stock rail (38 psi + 32lbs. of boost roughly) can handle before you'd want to update it. I'd highly recommend doing the aftermarket regulator, then a stainless fuel feed line at minimum (tank to rail) and you won't need more for a long time unless you're going big dog, in which case, this whole thread is bunk.

Sorry for being long winded, watching tv and typing at the same time as my brain is working!

Curt
-SlowboyRacing.com

Curt,

the N/T FPR IS a rising rate fpr. I have the fuel pressure gauge to show that it is... it is the EXACT same design as a stock FPR. It holds ~47psi for base fuel pressure instead of 38 psi. there are a couple guys here in the NW that have taken this FPR into the 11s.

 

[DSMJim]

Every fuel pressure regulator is a rising rate regulator as long as it has a vac nipple on it (never seen one without ???)

Weather they rise 1:1 or 10:1 etc is what makes the difference. If it's a stock type regulator it's a rising rate. Why do you think it changes even on a N/T car with VAC to 0 pressure? 2 inches of vac is 1psi of boost, so when you go from -20 in/hg to 0 thats equivelant of 10psi of boost pressure because there is no restriction on the intake system. This inturn raises the fuel pressure from 38 to 48 just as a stock regulator is ment to do. This is why we get different reading with the line on and off because as soon as you pull it off it's like atmospheric pressure the same as going WOT in a N/T car when the throttle body is open. There is only vaccum in the manifold when the throttle body is closed restricting the air entering the manifold.

 

[djpast]

Every fuel pressure regulator is a rising rate regulator as long as it has a vac nipple on it (never seen one without ???)

Weather they rise 1:1 or 10:1 etc is what makes the difference. If it's a stock type regulator it's a rising rate. Why do you think it changes even on a N/T car with VAC to 0 pressure? 2 inches of vac is 1psi of boost, so when you go from -20 in/hg to 0 thats equivelant of 10psi of boost pressure because there is no restriction on the intake system. This inturn raises the fuel pressure from 38 to 48 just as a stock regulator is ment to do. This is why we get different reading with the line on and off because as soon as you pull it off it's like atmospheric pressure the same as going WOT in a N/T car when the throttle body is open. There is only vaccum in the manifold when the throttle body is closed restricting the air entering the manifold.

yep yep and like said above.... the NT FPR is a 1:1 rising rate.

 

[mavisky]

The problem with the NT FPR is that it's not a rising rate regulator, like the stock turbo unit.
Sorry for being long winded, watching tv and typing at the same time as my brain is working!

Curt
-SlowboyRacing.com

You sir are completely wrong. I ran the nt fpr for years with my turbo swap and a 3000gt pump. I had a fuel pressure guage from one of our technicians hooked up to my car at the banjo bolt of the fuel filter and drove the car around with a pressure guage the size of a clock laying on the windshield and watched firsthanded as the fuel pressure rose 1:1 with boost.

 

[1fastlaser]

diamond star motorsport used it on there 11 sec 14b car for awhile.My buddy went 12.6@ 107 on a 14b 20psi,stock injectors...255,2g mas, n/t reg,2g manifold,ebay front mount,no afc nothing for fuel control

he put the 2g mas on it with the turbo regulator and it wouldnt run right,swaped on the n/t reg. and the car ran like it came stock.

 

[ihatedsms]

hes talking about me