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Accelerator Cable Swap

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dalepmay

15+ Year Contributor
79
0
Sep 21, 2004
Federal Way, Washington
Okay, here's a little background...
Whenever I slow down to a stop, push in the clutch and press the brake, the idle stays around 2500-3000. Once I tap the gas really quick it will go up when I tap it, then back down to normal. It is to the point now where I have to tap it quickly every time I am about to come to a stop. I have checked the pedal, which is fine, and the connection and spring at the throttle body, which are fine. I am thinking it might be something inside my cruise control unit. I messed with the connections in the cruise control unit a little, and noticed when I forced one of them closed more than it went automatically, the idle went down a little, but I don't have enough room to adjust them all the way that is needed. So I was thinking since I have never even used cruise control (I drive about 2 miles to work and about 5 to my son's daycare, all aterial streets) I was thinking of taking out the cruise control unit all together. However, this would require getting an accelerator cable from a 1G without cruise control. I have looked at Napa, Autozone and Schucks, and nobody has it. I really don't feel like getting buttraped by the fealer. So I have two questions:

Does anyone know where I can get an accelerator for a 1g without cruise control?

Has anyone swapped the accelerator cable on car that was stock with cruise, but took it out?

Any and all help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys,
Dale
 
I swapped mine out with a non cruise control throttle cable. Very simple to find and do. Go to a junkyard that has some 1.8 dsm's and look to see if they have cruise control or not. If they don't, junkyard will prolly charge you $5 to take it (at least they did for me). Just take out your cruise control completely. Follow both lines and unhook everything you see that deals with cruise control. Cleans up the engine bay a lil bit and I'd sooner have a single throttle cable going to the floor instead of that cruise control bullshit.
 
not only 1.8s, 2nd gen nt's, and any hyundai with a 4g63 that should broaden your search.
i used a 2g nt to eliminate my cruise, less wires and more engine bay space :thumb:
 
Thanks for the info. Does anyone have any pics of what parts on the floor under the dash can be removed too? Thanks again.
 
dalepmay said:
Thanks for the info. Does anyone have any pics of what parts on the floor under the dash can be removed too? Thanks again.
before changing anything try adjusting the throttle cables... mine was doing exactly the same, when you open the hood , over your intake manifLOLd you'll see like a bracket with 2 bolts that's the adjustment for the cables also in one of them is a ground cable ...you won't miss it... just play with it back and fwd... ;)
 
Already tried adjusting the cable on the back of the intake manifold, no help. All it does is raise or lower the idle, it doesn't help with the throttle sticking high. Thanks though. My buddy who I bought the car from said at one time he had the TB bored inside and had a custom butterfly made, so there is a chance the butterfly get be getting stuck open along the edge somewhere. So I will take a look at that probably tomorrow. If that doesn't help, then I will go after a cruise control swap. Thanks for the help guys.
 
I just did the cruise to non-cruise swap yesterday and it was easy. There aren't any panels or anything you need to remove on the dash, just lay in there on your back and knock the plastic retainer loose and then pull it threw the firewall after unbolting everything out there. Then just mount the new cable and then get back in the car and connect the end back to the gas pedal and then adjust.
 
I don't think it is your cable, it sounds like your IAC to me. Do you have any check engine lights?
 
Man I've gone back and forth on the cruise control removal. I really like having it but I also want to clean up the engine bay. In the end I think its going to stay. I would check out the throttle plate. Most likely it's the seals that are worn on the TB shaft and it's causing the plate to hang up. Or quite possibly the spring isn't quite tight enough. I accidently wound mine one turn to much, but it should never stick on me. :rocks:
 
have you tried lubricating the cable?

I had a problem with it sticking and idle being to high cable just had to much tension on it in the spot it was at so I got some slack on it and it was fine. I still replaced it with non cruise cable but not a big deal.
 
Sounds like to me the o-rings are bad where the shaft goes into the tb. Mine is the exact same way and its annoying as hell. When the o-rings are bad the shaft isn't perfectly straight so it gets hung up.
 
I tried a couple things today. I sprayed WD40 in the throttle cables, then I looked inside the TB and saw that the plate is rubbing just a little on one side, above and below the rod, so instead of taking it apart and filing down the plate, i used a little bit of sand paper and sanded the inside of the TB enough so that the plate was nice and smooth. I then added a second spring on the back, making the throttle much tighter. After all this, it seemed to be perfect. Until I drove home. Same old problem.....right back where I started.....
 
dalepmay said:
I tried a couple things today. I sprayed WD40 in the throttle cables, then I looked inside the TB and saw that the plate is rubbing just a little on one side, above and below the rod, so instead of taking it apart and filing down the plate, i used a little bit of sand paper and sanded the inside of the TB enough so that the plate was nice and smooth. I then added a second spring on the back, making the throttle much tighter. After all this, it seemed to be perfect. Until I drove home. Same old problem.....right back where I started.....
oh you don't want to shave any of the plate or the TB off. You just need to replace the seals. It's not to hard to do. Just go to NAPA and get the seals and you'll have it done in a few hours and while it's apart you can block off the FAIV if you live somewhere hot just to get rid of a possible vac/boost leak.
 
Another thing to look at is your idle switch. Mine was backed off a little and the butterfly was slamming closed so hard it was getting stuck in the throttle body. It's right by the TB elbow on the firewall side. It will have one wire coming from it.
 
As far as removing one goes there are 2 bolts in the firewall where the cable comes through and 2 on the back of the intake manifold. If you lay on your back and look up at the top of the accelorator pedal youll see a plastic piece that goes through. After messing around with mine using pliers and things it is just easiest to use your fingers. You pinch it together and push the plastic piece towards the back of the car and its out. Now slide the cable out and put it in yours. I dont miss the cruise control at all and it cleans things up under the hood. Just make sure when you bolt it down to the back of the manifold to be careful not to snap the bolts. That can become a pain :thumb:
 
Okay, today I tested the ISC Motor. According to everything I've read, the resistance should be between 28-33 ohms. All the connections I tested were 34.5. So I am assuming I need to replace the ISC. Anyone if I can leave it unplugged, and see if the problem goes away, so I would know for sure? Thanks again, ang again guys. :thumb:
 
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