Talesin
15+ Year Contributor
- 1,718
- 36
- Jan 19, 2005
-
Burbank,
California
1990 Eclipse GSX
Hey all. My shortblock was replaced just before I picked up the car, and I've had no end to leaking problems, mostly around the CAS. Took it back and they said that they put on the wrong O-ring, and filled it in with silicone sealant.
I've just noticed today that the rear bolt/stud (firewall side) doesn't have enough thread on it to snug the crown nut down and secure the CAS in place. It literally has between 1/4" and 1/2" of play. The front bolt is snugged down firm, but I'm still losing oil (they claimed it was through the housing, but I'm pretty sure the silicone just is coming away), and worry about what this could do to my timing and overall engine health.
Possible causes:
Wrong head (Marked as 2.0L^T with a 1 underneath, with 0304 just under the CAS, and an A in a box above it)
Wrong CAS (olive green metal cap, so unlikely)
They broke the bolt/stud at some point, and put a new one on incorrectly.
Next... I'm tempted to take it off and strip away the stupid silicone sealant, then just put some washers under the nut... but that'd be likely to work itself free before too long, and the amount of gap makes me leery. It'd take 4-5 washers just to get any clamping force from the nut on the threaded section.
Hey all. My shortblock was replaced just before I picked up the car, and I've had no end to leaking problems, mostly around the CAS. Took it back and they said that they put on the wrong O-ring, and filled it in with silicone sealant.
I've just noticed today that the rear bolt/stud (firewall side) doesn't have enough thread on it to snug the crown nut down and secure the CAS in place. It literally has between 1/4" and 1/2" of play. The front bolt is snugged down firm, but I'm still losing oil (they claimed it was through the housing, but I'm pretty sure the silicone just is coming away), and worry about what this could do to my timing and overall engine health.
Possible causes:
Wrong head (Marked as 2.0L^T with a 1 underneath, with 0304 just under the CAS, and an A in a box above it)
Wrong CAS (olive green metal cap, so unlikely)
They broke the bolt/stud at some point, and put a new one on incorrectly.
Next... I'm tempted to take it off and strip away the stupid silicone sealant, then just put some washers under the nut... but that'd be likely to work itself free before too long, and the amount of gap makes me leery. It'd take 4-5 washers just to get any clamping force from the nut on the threaded section.