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1g intake/head or 2g intake/head ?!

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TargeT

15+ Year Contributor
320
4
Mar 17, 2004
anchorage, Alaska
I'm about to take the 2.3 out of my 93 that got hit (and totaled :( ) and put it in my 95

I've got a 52 trim turbo (SBR GT-11, rated @ 50lb/min)w/38mm tail & FMIC w/short route, GM maft blow through 3" exhaust & a 2.3 bottom end

Its a 95 eclipse, should i just reuse my 2g head & intake manifold? should i go with a 1g head & intake manifold/throttle body

gonna stay with stock 1g cams for now, might move up to 264's later, but not much more agressive, this is sort of patch work because i had originaly wanted to build up my 1g, but now thats out the window i'm just trying to get this motor into my 2g & have some fun with all the cash i spent :LOL:

I'm wondering which would be best, Am i going to out flow the 2g head/intake mani ?


this car is mostly a fun "street car" and a weekend Autox car, I'll keep the redline at 7,500 and prolly shift before then,
 
gixrman said:
I'd stick with the 2g setup just for ease of setup in the car. Its been discussed in other forums that they both flow about the same. But put the 1g TB on the 2g intake.

I'd also go with the FP2 cams over the HKS's

well its a 2.3 6 bolt bottom end, correct me if I'm wrong but a 2g head stud holes aren't big enough for 1g head bolts, so i'll have to pull the head, drill out the holes & port match the 2g intake manifold to the 1g throttle body (not that its hard,..) then switch all the sensors over to the 1g TB,..

seems like close to the same amount of work

I agree that the heads flow the same, but not the intake manifold, the 1g is clearly better in that area,. though for autox i dont see how that matters

I'd like to get 400-450 WHP out of the car..
 
target, you are correct on the 11mm 6bolt & 12mm 7bolt stud holes. its Veary easy to tap them to match. it's just stressfull the first time. but takes literlly 10 mins. i'd strongly suggest APR fasteners for the head.

you can stick with the 2g head & exhaust manifold if you like, but keep the 1g intake. you dont want to restrict the breathing of the 2.3L
 
I've also read a lot on headbolts & if stock ones "stretch" or not, i don't think aftermarket headbolts do anything for you (info from nabr)

I guess i should pull the head & have the valves & guides done anyway while i'm doing the engine swap, I can tap the holes then, or have the machine shop do it..

what about port matching the 2g head to the 1g intake? I've got access to a diegrinder & i' can use a 1g intake gasket for a template, just grind out the extra material? do i need to go for a 45* angle or anything?
 
TargeT said:
what about port matching the 2g head to the 1g intake? I've got access to a diegrinder & i' can use a 1g intake gasket for a template, just grind out the extra material? do i need to go for a 45* angle or anything?

Ahhh god don't do that you'll seriously f-up the flow into the head. If your that concerned about flow get a aftermarket intake, or just put the 1g head on.
 
seems like the intake running into smaller ports isnt the best for air flow..
 
TargeT said:
seems like the intake running into smaller ports isnt the best for air flow..

It's not. You don't wanna use a 1g intake manifold on a 2g head. Just use the 2g manifold with 1g throttle body of get a SMIM which is ideally the best setup. I know it's expensive but for flow and matching the head size it's the best route for flow/velocity.

You don't want to hog the 2g head ports out to match a 1g manifold that defeates the whole purpose of running the 2g head, velocity. A propertly designed intake manifold (Magnus) will be your best option.
 
ive got a 1stgen ported intake and exhaust manifold on my 2gen head and it performs awesome try it and i agree the 1st gen def outflows the the 2nd gen intake mani :dsm:
 
DSMJim said:
It's not. You don't wanna use a 1g intake manifold on a 2g head. Just use the 2g manifold with 1g throttle body of get a SMIM which is ideally the best setup. I know it's expensive but for flow and matching the head size it's the best route for flow/velocity.

You don't want to hog the 2g head ports out to match a 1g manifold that defeates the whole purpose of running the 2g head, velocity. A propertly designed intake manifold (Magnus) will be your best option.

I guess that makes sence, but I was also thinking that re-creating the flute style entrance to the runners (very similar to the magnus intake inside the main plenum) on the 2g head would cause it to function much the same as the magnus intake manifold, just with much shorter runners.

but then it kind of goes against "long small diamter runners for low end tq, and short/larger diamter for high end power"

this would make them short, smaller diamter, which might be defeating the purpose,..

I supose i could just clean up my 2nd gen head/intake & put a 1g throttle body on.

afriend of mine has a stock 2g engine (FMIC 2.25 UIC & LIC pipes, injectors 3" turbo back, DSM link, intake etc..) with a 50 trim on it & really has a hard time flowing over 44lbs of air, i think he's hit the wall on that set up & i don't want to get stuck in the same situation, especialy with a turbo that should flow 50lbs/min
 
TargeT said:
, i don't think aftermarket headbolts do anything for you (info from nabr)

Go back to that thread, read my post and read grocmax's post. Then pick up a book about fasteners and see what will have more clamp load. Comparing the tensile strength of and apple to an orange is useless.

If you want a little more flow then cut off the top of the 2G plenum and weld on aluminum to make a larger plenum volume (check out what sound performance does on supras). Runner length determines the RPM at which peak power occurs (soundwaves and resonance), plenum volume has more of an effect on total power output. A larger plenum makes more power all else created equally.
 
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