I did a search and saw another post about this here, but it was not helpful...
My SBR COP setup is rubbing under the hood. I cut away the heat shield, and even dented the support brace on that spot to be a little more flat. It still seems to rub..
Is there anything I can do to fix this? Maybe dissasemble the COP from the plate and remove a washer or so...
Thanks,
Mike
____________________________
-Mike
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You could always do the DIY cowl-induction hood mod...
I had a similar problem with a cheapie-pos generic front strut bar hitting the inner hood reinforcements.
(x4) 1/8" thick washers ($.89 for a bag of them at OSH) that were used to space the hood higher by putting them under the hood but between the OE hood hinges. That did the trick. It's not enough to notice any body lines or make changes to the hood latch or anything, but it just might buy you some room you need.
Looks like I'm taking the hood off this week and going to shim it up little bit..
The only thing that stinks is that the rubbing took off a little paint, and also rub a bit of the rubber protection off....Oh well guess some electrical tape can't hurt....
I'll post to let everyone knows what happens...
Mike
Just a quick note,
You don't really need to remove the hood completely, I just did one of the 2 bolts/washers at a time, with the hood installed... Took about 5 minutes each side. Just loosen both bolts and remove one completely to slide the washer(s) in place... Tighten it snug, then do the same for the other bolt, then do the same on the other side.
Last edited by BoostedTalonTS; 03-13-2005 at 08:00 PM.
Anyone know what the diameter of the bolts holding the hood up is? maybe 8mm, that way when i go to the store I don't have to buy extras and have trial and error.
Mike
Just out of curiosity, does anyone know if SBR solved the dwell time issue associated with COP setups? Obviously they still ran, but being that they were running 2x as quickly as they were originally engineered to do, caused some dwell time discussion. Just curious if any of the vendors resolved this. Id imagine it would be evident by looking at the wiring of them.
Anyone know what the diameter of the bolts holding the hood up is? maybe 8mm, that way when i go to the store I don't have to buy extras and have trial and error.
Mike
10mm diameter bolt threads... But just go with a 1/2" opening, so you can augment the washer placement so that they will "hide" themselves behind the OE hinge bracket (for the most part anyways)... You will see why when you get to that point.
This is a tough one. All I can say is that you could always go to your local yamaha dealer and order the special tool that we use on the r1 and r6 etc, it should'nt be that expensive because it's just a piece of plug wire with a male and female end on it that you can clamp a timing light pickup onto.
Cop(Coil on Plug) has been around for a while now. Is there a how to, for building your own setup. You would think there would be part #'s and directions.
aem forums has all the part numbers. 2000-2003 300m chrysler coils, toyota connectors. Moparpartz.com has cheapest coils that i know of. About 160$ and you can build a complete COP setup same as most sell.
aem forums has all the part numbers. 2000-2003 300m chrysler coils, toyota connectors. Moparpartz.com has cheapest coils that i know of. About 160$ and you can build a complete COP setup same as most sell.
i saw one on how people used intrepid and concord packs. it was extremely cost effective, but apparently they all broke for some reason. maybe someone has a link to the thread.
I plan on doing an e3b16g in the near future, and I am going with an e3 mani and atmospheric o2. I have a cyclone [dual runners] IM at my house, when I put it on I know that you have to fab up a bracket for the coils etc and I hear that its a major pain in the ass. Though, would I be able to more efficiently run a COP setup with the cyclone and not have to deal with that other b.s. because the COP just hooks into were the old coils were right. Any thoughts?
I plan on doing an e3b16g in the near future, and I am going with an e3 mani and atmospheric o2. I have a cyclone [dual runners] IM at my house, when I put it on I know that you have to fab up a bracket for the coils etc and I hear that its a major pain in the ass. Though, would I be able to more efficiently run a COP setup with the cyclone and not have to deal with that other b.s. because the COP just hooks into were the old coils were right. Any thoughts?
It would probably be easier to run a COP. You wouldn't have to fab up a bracket for the coil pack since the individual coils on the COP are mounted to the plate that comes with the kit. It just depends on your budget. If you got the cash then go for it. It definately makes the engine bay a lot cleaner.
Dont run COP unless you have dsmlink or some other way of changing dead time (otherwise known as dwell time). Your idle will suffer and it will be harder to tune your car. And yes, most COP setups will plug into your stock coil adapter.
Do you have a 1g head? The cyclone IM ports will not line up with the stock 2g head.
COP is a huge overkill on an evoIII setup. expensive and not worth it and the cyclone intake manifold is useless and a restrictions without a way to control the butterfly valves.
I am building my own Coil on plug seup. I have eveything I need to build it. But the wiring.
I have done my research on this but all the wiring diagrams are for 91 to 94 cars. I need to know how to wire up a 90 car so everything right including the tach.
Pass voltage through one pin at a time on the coilpack. as your passing voltage through it find out what cylinder(s) would be firing at that time, write down that color wire for that cylinder(s). There should be 2 Hot, 2 Return, and 1 for the Tach, if it is a 5 wire setup. Dont quote me on that though, mines a 3 wire, but it should be the same concept. Anyhow, when you figure out what wires go where, you should be able to use that knowledge to build your new setup. Let me know if i confoosed you.
Anybody on here running a COP setup without an MSD-2 or AEM CDI? Did you have mis-fire problems? or have to gap you plugs down to .26 to stop mis-fire?
I just recently installed mine and I am not using any CDI system as of yet, but in order to keep from mis-firing I have had to gap my plugs down to .26. Is this common for most people with this setup?
My friends are running the switzer COP setup without the use of an aftermarket ignition system and it seems to run fine. They gap the plugs at .26 as well.