Modding a 91 Talon TSi AWD w/an auto???????

[0to60in5]

everyone is telling me the Auto tranny on DSM's suck so I wanna know what it can hold up to. I wanna build this Talon TSi that I'm getting to run mid 14's maybe better but I don't wanna blow my trans. I plan on doing the following mods to it Small 16G Turbo, Larger Fuel Injectors, 3 Inch Straight pipe with Apexi muffler, TurboXs BOV, Bigger Intercooler with stainlessintercooler pipe and of course tune it. Do you guys think the stock trans will hold up to these mods? Thanks,

BTW I would also like to know the Easiest and Cheapest way to 14's.

 

[Kollide]

well I saw 14.5 time with no balance shafts and a b/c set to 15lbs, all stock

 

[Nosjunke]

I've got a 91 Auto as well. I haven't had it dynoed, but I'd gather to say that I have about 250-275whp. My estimates are based on modifications others have done, and how quick the car is over stock. I've done the mods you listed, plus a few more, and my auto is great. First thing I did was replace the filter and fluid. When I drive the car, I always leave it in the power setting, and OD off, unless I hit the speed of 50mph or so, then I let it go into 4th. In any event if you are always power breaking the car at every stop light, you are going to blow it up. People say first thing to do is get a big transmission cooler from Summit or somebody. I haven't done that. My car only has 78,000 miles on it, and I'm surethe trans is still untouched. It may only be a matter of time before mine goes, but when it does then I'll be ready for the IPT upgrade. In the mean time, just mod away, stay away from all the power breaking (if you do it a lot then go get the cooler). Heat kills, power breaking creates LOTS of heat, and bad pressures, lots of additional friction, and isn't normal for the transmission. On occasion I'll let it build up boost at a light-I'll power break it to about 2600rpm and I'll have 10-12 psi when I launch. My next actual modification, unless something breaks, is to get IPT's redone valve body with shift kit installed. It's like $350, and will make the trans shift even better. Don't let all those 5psd folks discourage you. I purposely bought the automatic version after having the 5spd. You see all those posts about broken flywheels, is which clutch to get Act2100, 2600, etc... It's easy for us, run stock until it goes, get an IPT transmission, and your done.

 

[Nosjunke]

try this link http://www.plymouthlaser.com

 

[kraka]

Well, besides the fact that your tranny will start having problems when you start modding, your turbo is also significantly smaller. Unless you plan on going bigger than a 14b right away, one of my first mods If I were you would be to get a 14b & 450cc injectors..

After that, do the free mods, get a K&N filter, MBC/boost gauge, turboback exhaust and the rest of the first mods....You being a 1G already have a BOV that won't leak over 12psi so you don't need a new aftermarket one unless you really want one... I would put that money into either an UICP or a datalogger...

The smartest option would be just to save up your money for an LSD or a high performance auto trans.. You could also do a manual swap but then its more practical to just buy a manual tsi from the get-go

 

[Mirage2LTurbo]

Auto's are faster than manuals, properly configured of course. Stay the path, go over to IPT's site and buy some of their upgrades.

 

[n3gativerr0r]

^^^ What he said

 

[BoostedTalonTS]

0-60,
I actually have my ATX 94 Talon modded with just about every mod that you list in your original post... I now have 114k on the original DSM AT trans (true, I upgraded the end clutch -Alto end clutch upgrade- and change the ATF and fluid & filter regularly). The most of my car's driveline problems are just that, driveline. I've gone through 2 front axles already, and I have that driveline thump when I shift fron D to R or vise-versa, caused from the front/rear driveshaft (well it's hollow, rubber carrier bearings anyway)... A good DIY fix for that is listed at http://www.plymouthlaser.com/shaft.htm I still haven't gotten around to do that yet.

Since I usually tool around at OE boost on my 16g for fuel economy (9lbs), with occasional blasts of up to 20lbs, with my current setup, I think I can now actually see the gas guage move after a 9-10 second WOT run at 20lbs. As for off-the-line racing, I usually don't bother, unless I'm seriously provoked... I still run 110% vehicle weight -with the additional 10% being my sound system, I'm in no way living my life 1/4 mile at a time and considering that this is also my daily driver, I can't beat on it too much , but I have my fun... I started modding it back at about 30k miles with the intention of trying to find the breaking piont of this "weak" AT, and I still haven't found anything that it hasn't liked. Only once, after break-tourque'ing for about 6-7 seconds with an RPM of about 2400, at 8psi and a lot of WOT on the freeway following that, I had my AT Temp warning light come on (I don't think that the 90-91s got that feature)... I changed the fluid and haven't had any other reoccurances. I'm almost considering getting an AT Temp guage.

So to answer your question, I know that atleast 1 DSM can and will continue to hold up under these conditions, with the mods that you are thinking about for your own DSM. You can see what mods I've done in my profile.

 

[ICU812]

Go to http://www.atdsm.com

 

[Nosjunke]

I forgot to add that I did the 14b swap with 450 injectors. I also added a ported 2g manifold, and ported evo o2 housing, along with the 3" N-1 downpipe. My MBC is set at 19 psi. So if you plan to do the 16g, then you'll need to swap out the injectors, and manifold. At that time you might as well do the o2 housing, and downpipe too. Just my 2 cents. I also threw in the 255lph pump, and rewired the fuel pump.