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Taking apart 4G63t

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talonwrx2002 said:
How hard is it to do ? How do you get the pistons out of the cylinder??

Remove the intake manifold, the exahust mani, the head, and then drop the oil pan...disconect the rods from the crank shaft and push the pistons and rods out the top...
thats it in a nut shell...I'm in the middle of a rebuild on my 2g and I'm doing it with engine in the car, so feel free to PM me if you need further help or a more detaled discription
derek
 
1fast97gsx said:
don't even remove the intake and exhaust manifolds from the head ... pull it all off as 1.

actally i second that it was a PITA to get the intake manni off with the head still on
 
I don't want to sound rude but---- If you don't have a manual stop now and get one. It will greatly improve your odds of putting the engine back togeather and have some kind of relyable build up. The manual will have all the basic informaton on engine maintenance that you will need. If you get into mods and upgrades--- Now its time to hit the forums :thumb:
 
babell2 said:
I don't want to sound rude but---- If you don't have a manual stop now and get one. It will greatly improve your odds of putting the engine back togeather and have some kind of relyable build up. The manual will have all the basic informaton on engine maintenance that you will need. If you get into mods and upgrades--- Now its time to hit the forums :thumb:
Never worked on a engine a day in my life, but with a Chiltons manual I managed to take the engine apart and replace many gaskets / belts, and best of all, the car still runs! :p

It has a whole section on removing and reinstalling the engine too. Very helpful.
 
Thanks guys I do have a manual ... I have alldatadiy.com but this is what it says..............
Remove top ridge of cylinder bores with a reliable ridge reamer before removing pistons from cylinder block. Be sure to keep tops of pistons covered during this operation . Mark piston with matching cylinder number.

I'm not so sure what the top ridge of cylinder bore is so yeah thats most of the reason i got confued?
any suggestions????
 
talonwrx2002 said:
Thanks guys I do have a manual ... I have alldatadiy.com but this is what it says..............
Remove top ridge of cylinder bores with a reliable ridge reamer before removing pistons from cylinder block. Be sure to keep tops of pistons covered during this operation . Mark piston with matching cylinder number.

I'm not so sure what the top ridge of cylinder bore is so yeah thats most of the reason i got confued?
any suggestions????

what is talkin about is sometimes metal from the cylinder walls and pistons etc. will build up around the top, and form a little ridge around the top of the cylinder walls. but when i did my rebuild there wasn't one. :thumb:
 
talonwrx2002 said:
Thanks guys I do have a manual ... I have alldatadiy.com but this is what it says..............
Remove top ridge of cylinder bores with a reliable ridge reamer before removing pistons from cylinder block. Be sure to keep tops of pistons covered during this operation . Mark piston with matching cylinder number.

I'm not so sure what the top ridge of cylinder bore is so yeah thats most of the reason i got confued?
any suggestions????
In ye olden dayes, blocks and rings were sufficiently mis-matched in metalurgy, and oils were bad enough that within 50,000 miles the rings would machine off enough of the cylinder wall to leave a ridge between the original bore's diameter and how much the top ring had cut the wall. Ridge-reaming used to be standard procedure. I've never had to, starting with engines from the sixties.
You might want to look into shop manuals that have a better grip on the realities of the current world, instead of one that's re-mouthing generic procedures from the 1920s.
 
Yeah, for some reason, almost every engine shop manual I've ever used has mentioned the use of a ridge reamer. I have also never seen it necessary to use one to remove a piston, although I have heard about it in some cases, but only with older engines (a 50's Plymouth is one I can think of off hand).

Many people attribute the elimination for the need for a reamer due to the higher nickel content of current engine blocks.
 
I have now built two 4G63T's and I have found this......they are so easy its silly. I started building motors in the old days. Compared to that these OHC motors are so easy . A good manual helps if you are a newbie. Also the guys are right, these newer motors look new inside after 100k miles - save the ridge reamers for your old 440/454/350 etc. You'll need a ridge reamer if you can feel a ridge at the top of your cylinder wall. Trust me with a 4G63 you won't feel one!
 
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