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2,000 worth of parts, good/bad?

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Liger

15+ Year Contributor
121
1
Mar 14, 2004
Auburn, California
Well i am getting some money here soon and i got around 2k to spend, this is what i got lined up to buy and real soon i'm getting a pressure test and leak down test done to the car to make sure everything is good to go. My car is bone stock aside from a boost controller and boost gauge. '95 Talon TSi AWD 5 spd.

Evo VIII Big16g ported with the 34mm flapper
Install kit
SAFC-2
Walbro 255hp
660cc injectors
HKS SSQV
Supra Sidemount IC
GM MAFT w/ Translator

Only thing i am sketch about is whether i should get the VPC and ditch a maf or keep the safc-2. I can deal without an exhaust for a bit cause i'm getting a full 3" custom made in a few months. I was thinking 16 psi or so for normal boost levels but what's good for a daily driver that will hold together yet kick the crap outta most things out there with the setup? thanks, Brandon [VFRacing]
 
Well, its a fine list. And youll find out how much boost you can run, when everythings installed, and you start tuning it.
 
I'd guestimate 18psi on our 91 oct and that supra side mount. Maybe a bit lower without a more efficient I/c, who knows. I've guessing you've got the upper intercooler pipe already if you're moving to a GM MAF and an intake to replace the stock pipe and MAS. Do you have a good BOV already cause the stock 2G won't get you past about 12 psi?

My dad used to live in Auburn. Check us out at www.sacramento-dsm.com if you ever come down to Sac or even if you don't
 
The only thing i didnt see on your list that you might need is a FPR. without that your going to run extremely rich at idle because the stock one wont be able to handle it.
 
Yeah, i didn't konw i needed a fuel pressure regulator with this small of a setup. i'll use stock ic pipes till i can get around to getting a front mount kit. i got the hks ssqv bov on there. i'll get a hard intake pipe too btw. thanks for the input. Brandon [VFRacing]
 
if you plan on a fmic, dont bother with the supra smic, save the cash towards the fmic.

and you dont NEED an afpr, if its not a high pressure 255, you can get away without one, but theyre nice to have.
 
"Need" depends on what happens with your fuel pressure. I only have a 190 and it overran my fpr even though everyone always says it won't. The 255 lp might or might not.

If you're not getting a FMIC for a long time, go with the supra side mount. It's only $50 and you can sell it for $50 later.
 
50 bucks for a supra side mount? I sold mine for 180!!! about 4 months ago.
 
If it were me I'd ditch the GM MAFT/Translator and HKS SSQV. I'd get an upper intercooler pipe w/ 1g bov, and some sort of datalogger. Another thing that would help is port work on your manifold and o2 housing. The GM MAFT seems like its a bit much and would help later. If your set on getting the GM setup I'd possibly wait until I was ready for a FMIC. This way you could get a short route kit with the GM setup incorporated with it and be set for some real a$$ kicking after you've learned on the other setup. When you're ready for the FMIC setup you could sell the UICP, BOV, and Supra SMIC as a package deal and help out someone else that's new to the DSM scene.

Again this is just MY take on the situation. Just thought I'd drop off my two pennies.

God I wish I had two grand to drop on performance stuff right now!!! :(
 
if you care about stuff like driveability, fuel economy, consistency in tuning, you need an adjustable fpr. also, i just installed a vpc, and it is amazing. i searched a lot comparing maft and vpc, i only found a couple of posts where people had either used both, or had one on each car. every one of them said vpc was way better. i can say that vpc makes one hell of a difference over the 2g mas setup, and at only 18 lbs boost on 93 pump(also evo3 turbo) i am near max on 660's. i had base fuel at 36(1g stock fp) but have raised it to 40 to get my injectory duty cycles down, which has worked well. on 91 pump, you might have to go higher. i also have water injection. losing the mas made a HUGE difference. you can get a good used vpc for about 500 bucks, and i think it is worth it. i have also seen a lot of posts about maft problems, and a lot of good stuff, too, but none so far has gone from vpc to maft. they all seem to go from vpc to standalone. one of the best tuners i know of also had very good things to say about vpc, he basically said that vpc is making a lot of people with standalones take notice.
 
I assumed he meant evo III. But of coarse the VPC would be nicer than a maft. And its only 400$ more.. If you wanna shell out that kind of cash, get a eprom ecu and dsmlink.
 
anconover said:
I assumed he meant evo III. But of coarse the VPC would be nicer than a maft. And its only 400$ more.. If you wanna shell out that kind of cash, get a eprom ecu and dsmlink.

He's even got a 95, probably EPROM already. DSMLink would be the way to go.
 
just for somthing to chew on, slowboy racing has their td05h 20g dirrect 2g bolt on turbo for $899. you will want the afpr with any 255. if not, you'll absolutly need a fp gauge, and if possable, both!! the maft is nice for the 2g when your flowing around 46lb/min or more. it really wont be doing anything for you at your point if you are going to use a safc2, other then let you vent without recirculating. nothing wrong with doing it if you have the extra $250 for the mafs and translator.

if you dont want to spend the cash on dsmlink get a logger. there is no way you'll beable to tune your car without one. you dont want to spend 2000 on your car and have it run worse then when you had it stock.
 
if i was in your shoes.....

i would first get a 1g tb, dsmlink, used turbo small 16g, buy the install kit, greddy 18r fmic, fpr, and clutch.
 
the maft is nice for the 2g when your flowing around 46lb/min or more. it really wont be doing anything for you at your point if you are going to use a safc2, other then let you vent without recirculating. nothing wrong with doing it if you have the extra $250 for the mafs and translator.

This is basically dumb and I would disregard these type of comments. Do some research on the MAFT to find the REAL benifits (besides venting and higher flowing :rolleyes: ) before you decide either way.
 
4g63awdtalon said:
if i was in your shoes.....

i would first get a 1g tb, dsmlink, used turbo small 16g, buy the install kit, greddy 18r fmic, fpr, and clutch.

Greddy is a horrible choice for a budget build up as it sucks and is extremly overpriced. Check out a JR or johnny race car I/C and build your own pipes for $400 or less total if you're worried about not speanding a fortune on it.
 
Blizz92tsi said:
If it were me I'd ditch the GM MAFT/Translator and HKS SSQV. I'd get an upper intercooler pipe w/ 1g bov, and some sort of datalogger.

Ok explain your logic on why the 1G BOV is better than the HKS SSQ, because it's not.

Get a dsmlink first. Don't bother screwing around with piggyback junk, it's much easier to tune a car with proper fuel AND timing control.
 
Yeah, the odds are that you already have an eprom ECU so you might as well go with dsmlink .... you will be sorry if you don't. Having the ability to log actual knock is a big plus.
 
NDgsx,
I never said that the 1g BOV was better than the HKS valve. I was only stating that the GM setup was maybe a little bit of over kill. If the GM setup is over kill then the HKS valve isn't needed. I was suggesting that going with the upper pipe w/ 1g valve and supra smic is a nice starting point. It would also be likely to be an easy resell when he was ready for a fmic. When he does a fmic he could go with a short route and get the gm setup incorportated with it. Also by the time he's ready for the fmic and gm setup he would have learned a lot as far as tuning goes. I don't care what route Liger goes with I was only suggesting a different less expensive option. It seemed to me that maybe there were some steps being skipped for the sake of having cool parts. Like I said last time I was only leaving my two pennies.

As far as the DSMLink you are absolutely correct. I'm a 1g guy and am not used to having it as an option. Now that DSMLink is coming out for the 1g I'll have to keep that in mind as an option. Later.
 
Just for some Info on getting a Good FMIC with out spending a ton of cash. I picked up this IC for $300 Shipped from Boostcoolers on Ebay. The core is a Sparco core that measures 9.5"x12"x3.5" and has 2.5" in/out lets. Also for piping you can use PVC which is very cheap. FullThrottle sells aluminum piping 2.5" mandrel bends very cheap. With all the silicone couplers, piping, and bends for a MAFT I got it all for $200. So for $500 I got a very good FMIC that looks good and will function well up to the 600 HP range. I've seen some Bar and Plate ICs that didn't have the internal fins which vastly decreases the surface area which cools the intake charge, so beware. Here are the pics of it if you are interested. (Please don't comment on the cigerette buts and mess. :( )
 
Blizz92tsi said:
NDgsx,
I never said that the 1g BOV was better than the HKS valve. .

That's cool, I understand your logic now. I thought that you were saying the 1G bov was a better piece, in which case I would disagree. I don't think I would bother changine setups twice personally, I try to go a little overkill the first time around to avoid spending money twice. I personally just hate selling used parts though.
You don't know how good you have it with a 1G, OBDII logging is about as usefull as tunning off plugs. 2 samples a minute :laugh:
 
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