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what killed my engine??

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insane147

20+ Year Contributor
171
3
Jul 24, 2002
rochester,
i just finished building my engine again, and after i put it in, after 30 seconds it runs like crap and dies. wont turn over after unless i manually move the cam gears off center. for the time it was running i had no oil pressure, but then again it was only for 30 seconds. the timing is STILL spot on, belt tight. the head was just redone, 3 angle valve job/ all new valves/ milled/ pressure tested. the car has new 2g pistons on my 1g rods. a JDM crank, block and front cover/ oil pump with straight cut gears (if it matters) and an air- oil cooler. all new rod and main bearings, balance shaft eliminators. it still had my 14b on it, i scourced the oil from the filter housing, top plug. my real question is could the head have been milled too much?? if not was it possible for the lifters to PUMP UP even after being installed with no oil pressure. or is there a clearance issue with 2g pistons on 1g rods? when it was out of the car it turned nicely, i felt no interference. my compression before was 180 across, now its 0-70-180-0. remember, my timing is still perfect.:cry: :dsm:
 
the CAS is tight also, with the tooth in the slot correctly, like i said, i have no compression in 3 cylinders, but one is fine at 180. i ran the car again today to check for oil pressure and it has alot, from 25 to 115 psi. i cannot think what couldve happened, are the jdm rods or crank a diffrent length or stroke? is the pin center in the 2g pistons lower causing the piston to interfere with the valves, or could the valve job have been done in corrrectly?
 
Originally posted by insane147
i have no compression in 3 cylinders, but one is fine at 180. ?

What? Just a guess, but it sounds like your valves probably aren't closing completely when they should be. Yeh, maybe your valve job was done wrong, or it could be something like the cams are switched around...
 
0-70-180-0...oh crap dude!...thas no good:( There is a problem with timing. If you have to manually turn the cam gears(?) to start it than yur timings off. 0 compression is a serious issue, means an open valve. Run through EVERYTHING! If timing is still good than your valves are bad...not leaking bad but bent. A leaky valve will give you poor compression but not 0. 0=open valve. Explain the manual turning deal again too...I didnt quite understand that. Keep in touch...and good luck...
 
ok. i check the timing marks again, all where they are supposed to be.i took off the valve cover to see if any of my NEW valves had lost any keepers and dropped. they all were there. i started the car with no valve cover on, they all appear to go up and down ok.

at first the car ran fine for say 30 seconds, then all of the sudden it ran rough, like it droped a cylinder or two. i took that it was just the fuel having to work its way back into the system. i shut it off, and tried to start her. i got one click from the starter and it dont turn it. so i put a wrench on a cam gear and turn her, al the while saying damn this kinda hard, thought it was just compression. and from then on she runs on one cylinder, lots of oil pressure, volume etc... and is in time. thats why im leaning towards the clearance issue.
 
ok, i have found the problem....the entire engine was bought as a jdm unit. ater a few hundred miles the valve tick became terrible. i replaced the cams , lifters and roller rockers with 1992 american units. i did not know the 1990 jdm had a different oil relef valve in it for the lifter galleries. it is my belief that it supplies more oil pressure and volume, thus causing the lifters to pump up further and make the valves extend further than normal. the first time the engine ran for an hour until it had no compression in 2 cylinders. then i rebuilt the engine again thinking it was just the melted exhaust valve, until this happened again within 30 seconds of startup with all timing marks in their spot. now that i have wasted 2500 dollars on an expensive lesson learned, im gonna have to put my stock spare engine in to save for a new head.
 
sorry to hear that.

I just got a 91 galant turbo motor, I actually purchased the motor while it was in the car. It wasnt running, but they assured me it had a good head and block.

The thing is all the tags with the chassi number have been ripped off the vehicle, so I cant tell if its a US spec or JDM?

I am about to swap the old lifter & rockers into this engine and I dont want to suffer the same problem.

How can I tell if its a JDM unit or not?

The car was 5spd Manual, silver colour. The motor has grey valve cover with red writing. the turbo is a tdo5 14b.
 
if it has a red valve cover with mitsubishi on it, a cyclone intake. im not sure it it was a jspec thing, or a early proction engine, as it has an air to oil cooler on, which is a 90 and 91 unit.
 
That's why I never mess with the JDM parts. It's messy enough already over here on the US counterpart. Thanks for sharing the expensive lesson.



Set,
 
Okay, I know this thread is very old but I just remembered something. I am installing my motor in a couple of days and I need to make sure everything is okay just incase I kill it during start up.


the motor is a JDM red top Galant motor. came with a 4wd tranny that I sold.

I kept the cams and roller rockers that came with the jdm motor, but I have installed brand new 3rd revision lifters that are US spec.

Now will the additional oil pressure cause the valves to touch the pistons like insane147?

if so how can I check.

The motor is complete and assembled and turns fine with no touching what so ever, but I am worried about what will happen after we start it and get oil pressure..

has anybody installed 3rd revision lifters on his/her JDM motor/head without a problem?
 
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