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Gmaf

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CMiuc12s

15+ Year Contributor
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Sep 19, 2004
Virginia Beach, Illinois
I got a 97 3" GMAF from a LT1 Camaro Z28 from a buddy for free a week ago. Does anyone know if this would be able to work with the translator in a blow threw set up. :confused:
 

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Hi,

Sorry to hack into your post, but I noticed your GM MAF doesn't have the honeycomb. Can you run them without or do you need to have the honeycombs in place?

Thanks,

Sven
 
I seen this mod listed quite a bit. Would this be something good to do for my 91 Laser N/A, 2.0? If so, what model cars/years could I look for one of these in a junkyard? :confused: :laser:
 
It really is only designed for turbo cars, although a couple have used it on NA, I don't think they have had much success.
 
nine5raptor said:
It really is only designed for turbo cars, although a couple have used it on NA, I don't think they have had much success.

Thanks for the reply. If I wanted to get one, what year, make, models have them? I seen the camaro LS1 listed and I saw the Monte Carlo SS. Is this unit like standard for the V8's from a model year up? :laser:
 
GM used that style MAF on at least a dozen models. mine came fom a 4.3l V6 in a S-10 Blazer. Easy to find for no more than $50. Mark
 
nine5raptor said:
No screen is ok.

Not arguing, just a question but...
I was under the impression that running the GM MAF without the honey comb would increase intake turbulence to the point that the flow becomes unreadable. As I understand it, the vortices created by the honeycomb moving across the hot-wire are what induce an airflow count. Please correct me if I am wrong, with an explanation of how the system does work, if you please.
Aloha
 
I think you are thinking of the stock Karmann-vortex style meter. I that case, you need as linear a flow as you can get in order to create the proper number of vortices that are proportional to flow. If your air is swirling all over the place anyway, it doesn't make much sense to induce more vortices and try and count them.

With a hot wire maf, a wire (usually platinum) is heated up (usually ~300F) and the air going by the wire cools it back down. The amount of current required to keep the maf at the set temperature is proportional to airflow. This is how the GM maf works. Screens are not necessary, but if they are still there, there is no reason to remove them. He doesn't need to chuck the maf he has and go get another just because of no screen. It will work fine; his settings may be just slightly different, that is all.
 
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