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stock rebuild

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4g63awdtalon

20+ Year Contributor
252
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Mar 28, 2003
omaha, Nebraska
i am planing a stock rebuild for my talon tsi. The block i an going to rebuild has 170k. i have a set of 2g pistons and would like to install them would it be bad to not bore the block and buy new .020 over pistons i am on a limited buget because this is going to be my daily driver.
any input would be appreciated
 
No need to bore out the cylinders unless needed. Parts are cheaper and more readily available for a standard bore size. Also, save punching out the moter, because this might not be the last time you rebuild this block.
My 2 cnets.
-Rob
 
4g63awdtalon said:
i am planing a stock rebuild for my talon tsi. The block i an going to rebuild has 170k. i have a set of 2g pistons and would like to install them would it be bad to not bore the block and buy new .020 over pistons i am on a limited buget because this is going to be my daily driver.
any input would be appreciated

If you buy .020" over bore pistons you MUST bore the block .020" to insure the correct piston to cylinder wall clearance. If you have a set of stock bore 2g pistons and want to install them you will have to machine your 1g rods to accept the 2g pistons (bore the pin hole 1mm, narrow pin end of rod to 1.040"). You can put the stock 2g pistons in your block (after they are properly hung on 1g rods) but you will *at least* have to hone the cylinders and install a new set of piston rings. :thumb:

-Dustin :talon:
 
yeah the block will have a hone and the rods will be mechined i just didn't want to buy a new set of pistons to install when all i want is to drive this car not mod it that much
 
4g63awdtalon said:
yeah the block will have a hone and the rods will be mechined i just didn't want to buy a new set of pistons to install when all i want is to drive this car not mod it that much

Oh, okay then. If I were you I'd just get an engine rebuild kit. http://www.slowboyracing.com/shop.php?sid=&cat=47

Get a new front case with oil pump gears, water pump, and a bs eliminator kit. There is really no point putting the balance shafts back in if you are pulling the motor. :D

http://www.slowboyracing.com/shop.php?sid=&cat=60
http://www.slowboyracing.com/shop.php?sid=&cat=67
http://www.slowboyracing.com/shop.php?sid=&cat=62

This will all run about $800 +/- add the machine costs and you should have a pretty solid motor rebuild for under $1500 +/-

Then you need to have your head resurfaced... might as well have new valve stem seals installed... Then you might as well get stainless valves, bronse guides, crower springs, :shhh: Sorry, I started talking about myself. I had the same idea as you when I first lost my motor. Sometimes I wish I would have just "refreshed" the engine. At least I would be able to drive the son of a bi***! :rolleyes: Oh well Peace!

-Dustin :talon:
 
Dude if your gonna rebuild it do it right. get the block all machined, bored honed, hot tanked, and decked if it needs it. crank ground/ polished, rods rebuilt. get the head done. it will pay off in the end when your motor lasts another 170k, and dosn't crap out after 10k. It would also be a wise investment to have a reputable shop assemble the bottom end, i am not saying send it to buschur, but a local shop in your area that does good work. there are so many things that peopl don't realize when they put these together. Most people don't have have the proper tools to do it. I'm not saying it cant be done, but is saving $300 worth having a motor that only last 10k miles.

Cutting corners only creates problems down the road.

I would shy away from the topline rebuild kit. I had a topline timing belt on my car it lasted 1500 miles and it striped all the teeth from a 3 inch section this was on a all stock motor too. Hopefully the rest of there products arn't as bad but i will never use there stuff again.

If your that concerned with saving money, then buy a jdm n/t 4g63 for your car. swap your turbo and intake and stuff to it and drop er in. sure you'll wanna keep the boost down to 10psi but, its a daily driver and they can be had for less than $600 shipped.
 
this situation is really close to mine. read the crankwalk post from the last few days. I also want to rebuild. I have heard that the topline kit is worth buying, especially for the price. I plan to bore my block .20 just to make sure everything is straight. I'm all about doing things once and not looking back.
 
I don't see a point in boring your block if you don't meet one of the following two criteria:
1) You've checked your cylinder walls with a micrometer and they've "egged".
2) You're building a stroker motor.

If you're just building your engine back to stock, then why narrow the amount of meat between the cylinders? It doesn't really make sense - kinda like putting a supercharger on a lawnmower. Sure, you can brag about it, but it doesn't do crap.
If the cylinder walls measure out 85mm all the way around, I'd just hone it and leave it be with stock bore size.
 
i have all the tools needed to proform this rebuild, all i want is a stock rebuild i don't want 2 money pits the galant will be my proformance car and my talon i just want to drive it around for a daily driver
 
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