Internals for 1G

[Laser0385]

I have a stock 1G FWD Laser and I am looking to do complete internals within the next 3 months. I was wondering if anyone had insight on what brands, specs of parts, etc. to purchase to obtain the highest horsepower handling capabilities and increase durability and longevity of my engine, even at high rpm and high horsepower. Doing internals first then going to a bigger turbo is the way to go right? Because I am getting my car ready to race in May, and I have 12-second street/strip car needs. Thanks for the help since I'm still a newbie.

 

[larryd]

Crower Rods
Ross Pistons

Some Head Package.. I have Crower Head Package including ss oversized valves, springs, and retainers..

 

[Laser0385]

Do you have links and prices?

 

[larryd]

www.crower.com

not sure about the Ross pistons..

 

[Zerocygnal]

Block Bore .50 Over and have it tanked 200.00 Local Machine Shop

1995-99 Factory Pistons .50 Oversize
95GSX/GS-T 4G63 Part# MD307826 155.24 Partznet.com

1990-94 Factory Rods shaved .100 150.00
(to fit pistons)

Bearings Cam and Crank Timken 50.00 Autozone?

Chromoloy or factory rings ?

Timing Belt Goodyear Gatorback 80.00 AdvanceAutoparts?

Copper headgasket 80.00
This is just a few things and off the top of my head I know I left alot out. I would replace the oil pump and water pump and all that good stuff since it's fairly cheap. I think the gasket kit for everything runs about 250.00 in additon to everything else

 

[Laser0385]

What kind of results did you see with all of those things done? I'm only 17 and work at a movie theater for minimum wage but I want my car to be fast by the end of April. Currently I have no performance mods. I was thinking internals because then I could run more boost with a bigger turbo I plan on getting sometime in the future, near or far. But if you have better ideas than using my money for internals that will have my car run fast/faster but not hurt durability of parts and cause lots of breakdowns/bad running car then let me know because I'm basically still a newbie. Thanks.

 

[Zerocygnal]

All that stuff above?
The only things I have done are the headgasket and the gatorback belt and a new waterpump. These are the plans I have for my engine after alot of research. I found that rather than buying aftermarket pricy parts you can get the same results with factory parts. Not to mention that Performance Mitsubishi gives ColumbusDSM members 30% off the price of anything you buy. I bet you have some kind of dealer close to you that honors those discounts, check your local Club site for details. There have been too many DSMtuner members out there that have run 12's 11's and probably alot better with the same basic setup. Some of them have done it with factory internals! The rods for the 90-94 are strong enough to handle alot of boost. But the pistons apparently do not hold up as well under those boost levels as well as the 95-99 year models. The prices I have listed here are probably the best you're going to find anywhere. If you want to build your motor expect to put close to a grand into it. You still have headwork to do...

Any other info just post.

 

[Laser0385]

So I'm looking at $1,000 for internals then I still need headwork done and finally my bigger turbo, exhaust manifold, wastegate, intake and exhaust. How close to 12's would I be with the internals, intake and exhaust? Assuming I shift decently? Info. on specific internals or how to get the work done would be great cause I am basically car illeterate unfortunately. Thanks.

 

[harryb]

Hey how's it goin I'm from western washington too. If you need a machinist for this work I have one that has done work for my car and other locals guys with 1g's. I have the 1G big rods and 2G pistons on my car. The machine shop is X-Act machine and the owner's name is Brad. He's a good and is very competitive with his pricing. He does assembly and everything else. As far as 12's are concerned you can run them with a 14b if you drive the $hit out of your car and are tuned right. If you want the number for X-act machine PM me and I'll get it
-Todd

 

[inferno9898]

Originally posted by Zerocygnal
Block Bore .50 Over and have it tanked 200.00 Local Machine Shop

Never heard the term tanked before. Can someone tell me what that is?

 

[Formz]

Ok some of the facts/prices given in the thread are off. So I'll clarify as I'm doing the same thing and got prices on the work TODAY.

Your prices will vary slightly going from machine shop to machine shop but here:

Machine 1g Rods (to fit to 2g pistons) $25.00 each
Bore/Hone Block (MAKE SURE THE SHOP USES A TORQUE PLATE) $140.00
Shot Peen Rods $60.00
Deck block $110.00
Deck Head $48.00
Mate 2g pistons and 1g rods/Seperate 1g Pistons and Rods $14.00 each
Assemble bottom end $250.00
Boil block (same thing as hot tanking) $78.00
TOTALS: $842

and for the ".5 over bore" he means .5mm, or .020 inches. Here are some parts for MY rebuild, yours will be different:


Desc/part number/price each/quanity needed/price total
2g Pistons .020 MD307826 $38.81 4 $155.24
Rings .020 MD313406 $104.00 1 $104.00
Timing Belt MD164533 $56.98 1 $56.98
Knock Sensor MD141510 $57.90 1 $57.90
o2 Sensor MD311230 $56.25 1 $56.25
Overhaul Gasket Set $169.00 1 $169.00
Rod Bearings $68.05 1 $68.05
Crank Bearings $63.20 1 $63.20
Oil Pump Sprocket $27.39 1 $27.39
Water Pump $79.00 1 $79.00
TOTAL: $837.01

and I suggest you check this thread out, VERY VERY helpful: http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=46628&perpage=40&pagenumber=1

 

[Zerocygnal]

Tanked is a little different as it uses an acidic formula that eats corrosion. It can restore metal parts to a like new condition and it also makes it a hell of alot easier to put everything together becauses cleanliness is not such a large issue.

I think this contact Harryb and formz can lead you on the right track. As to where I have only "intentions" of doing this myself, they already have, or will be sooner than I.

Best of luck

 

[Formz]

thats right hot tanked does use a chemical you're right. Although I think you wouldnt need that unless your block is REALLY dirty. A quick boil will be fine for mine however. Then I'm going to paint it gloss black with engine paint.

 

[Zerocygnal]

Heh I know it's a little overkill but it always seems to cost the same to get it tanked than to get it boiled. More for your money if you can find someone with the equip

 

[Formz]

yup thats true