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how concerned should i be?

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ballagsx

15+ Year Contributor
143
0
Jan 31, 2004
Keizer, Oregon
ok, i am rebuilding a 7 bolt engine and this is my first rebuild. i have the crank and pistons and bearing cap cradle on. the crank was cut .010 under. what concerns ne is that if i push or pull on the end of the crank it moves slightly, not much but enough that you can barley see it. it doesnt do this when i pull or push it up or down.

crank shaft endplay: standard=.0020-.0070 the wear limit is .016

should i be concerned?
will i have to take it apart and get a different thrust bearing?
would i be able to see .0020 to .0070 of wear?
 
i just mesured the distence between the thrust bearing and the crank with a feeler gauge .008 would fit and .009 would not fit.
so i guess that my question still stands, should i be concerned?
 
it is over the standard by .001 but im only half way to the wear limit
i think i will be ok but i would like an opinion
i dont want my new engine to crank walk
 
exact same thing happened to me ... I just meassured .006 on mine so I'm still within the limits. The thing is this is with brand new bearings so it will only get worse from here. What did you end up doing? Assuming a car does NOT have crankwalk ... what how many miles would an AVERAGE car be able to go before the crank gains that extra .001 - .002 to be considered out of spec?
 
Get another thrust bearing.... Also is this measurment with the Crank Torqued down??? if not you have to have to torqued and the head on and torqued to get the best most accurate reading.. But while it's out you should just go for another thrust bearing... I mean end play could be a leading cause of crank walk... Hell it's almost walking now and with a heavy clutch it's going to be hitting both sides of the thrust bearing a lot and hard if it has to move that much... Talk to some suppliers about getting slightly oversized thrust bearing on the thrust surface...
 
I would call around and find out... Personally I would want to be on the minimum side of the measurments to decrease the chance of crankwalk.. If you can't find one try calling SBR or RRE and see what they do to try and fix this problem..
 
yea I agree with wanting to be in the minimum side of the specs ... I'll call around tomorrow. Maybe it's just from the 60k miles of constantly beating on the car and running a 2600 clutch that caused my to be on the high side? :shhh:
 
these are cheep bearings, that i got the mesurments from.
i still dont have every thing togeather so its not too late to change bearings, just a PITA.
let me know what you find out about getting a bigger bearing.
 
They make bigger bearings for the 4G 7 bolt I know because I have .010 over bearings on my motor..I'll try to find the site i ordered them from, when I put my motor together w/ the crank milled .010, everything clearanced on the tighter end of the limits, works great for me...
 
dls93tsi said:
They make bigger bearings for the 4G 7 bolt I know because I have .010 over bearings on my motor..I'll try to find the site i ordered them from, when I put my motor together w/ the crank milled .010, everything clearanced on the tighter end of the limits, works great for me...

I know they make different bearings ... but we're talking about a wider thrust bearing to lessen crank endplay. My crank is not machined so I need standard sized bearings with a .002" wider thrust bearing.
 
Oh, my bad...I misunderstood what you were looking for. Try calling clevite or something...or is there a way you could shim the bearing out at all?
 
I would not shim the bearing. Shims can come out or even vibrate with all the vibrational load the crank sees and actually eat the bearings..
 
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