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1g Head on 2g: Whats needed?

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GSXtacy98

20+ Year Contributor
36
0
Mar 14, 2003
Fairfax, Virginia
So I've decided to rebuild my bottom end 7 bolt and Toss on a Ported/Polished 1g Head.. I've got the head so far.. what other parts will I be needing or would you recommend? 1g Intake Mani? I have heard something about needing a cam angle sensor....Please fill me in.
 
i know you said you decided to build your 7 bolt already, but you can find a 6 bolt block for 50-150 dollars, All other costs for the buildup will be the same. Im tired of meeting people then hearing the sad story of building a 7 bolt that walks.
 
I know the story but I dont think its honestly the best idea as my 7 bolt tranny is practically brand new....
 
I'm sick of people saying things like that about the 7 bolt. It's worse then the turbo eclipse vs non turbo eclipse arguement. We all know the turbo ones are better, and we all know 6 bolt is safer. I for 1 built the 7 bolt and so far I have no regrets. If it walks it walks, if not then not. Even 6 bolts can walk. Shit my friends lt1 has crankwalk. I did a 7 bolt buildup and a 1g head and everything works great and no crankwalk yet. For the headswap you need the head obviously and all the 1g water lines. The shifter counterweight needs to be cut off on the trans so it doesn't hit the lower radiator hose. That's about it .. very simple swap. Just follow the link from roadrace.
 
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=131709&highlight=walked
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84633&highlight=walked
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9703&highlight=*walk*+miles
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106285&highlight=*walk*+miles
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92438&highlight=*walk*+miles

People are not making things up about 7 bolts walking. Its not just hearsay. I personally know 2 people that have walked 7 bolts locally that dont post on here. But hey, if you are too llazy and cheap to spend an extra 150 for a 6 bolt shortblock, well dont come crying when your 7 bolt walks. I dont know why people seem to think its so hard to swap in a 6 bolt. Its really no different than putting a 7 bolt in other than you have to slightly modify one motor mount and you have to solder a few wires. If thats too big of a job for you, maybe you shouldnt be building a motor(or even getting one built).
 
bigjangin said:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=131709&highlight=walked
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84633&highlight=walked
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9703&highlight=*walk*+miles
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106285&highlight=*walk*+miles
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92438&highlight=*walk*+miles

People are not making things up about 7 bolts walking. Its not just hearsay. I personally know 2 people that have walked 7 bolts locally that dont post on here. But hey, if you are too llazy and cheap to spend an extra 150 for a 6 bolt shortblock, well dont come crying when your 7 bolt walks. I dont know why people seem to think its so hard to swap in a 6 bolt. Its really no different than putting a 7 bolt in other than you have to slightly modify one motor mount and you have to solder a few wires. If thats too big of a job for you, maybe you shouldnt be building a motor(or even getting one built).


i've had my 7bolt since 1999 and it's the original motor and i have not crankwalked yet. so put me in the group with the noncrankwalkers :p
 
mine didn't have problems with crankwalk either. It's just funny that it gets brought up in a thread that was totally unrelated. The guy was asking about mating a head with a block ... not which block is better.
 
he was also ignorant of what it takes to put a 6 bolt in place of a 7 bolt. He thought you had to use a different tranny. But if you guys want to keep building 7 bolts, thats fine with me. Means there are more 6 bolts out there for the rest of us. Crankwalk isnt a problem for 7 bolts according to you right? Every motor crankwalks correct, so you are really arent at more risk for crankwalk with a 7 bolt right? There hasnt been a well documented over occurence of crankwalk in stock and rebuilt 7 bolts right? :rolleyes:

Did you even check the endplay when you built your mighty 7 bolt?
 
bigjangin said:
he was also ignorant of what it takes to put a 6 bolt in place of a 7 bolt. He thought you had to use a different tranny. But if you guys want to keep building 7 bolts, thats fine with me. Means there are more 6 bolts out there for the rest of us. Crankwalk isnt a problem for 7 bolts according to you right? Every motor crankwalks correct, so you are really arent at more risk for crankwalk with a 7 bolt right? There hasnt been a well documented over occurence of crankwalk in stock and rebuilt 7 bolts right? :rolleyes:

Did you even check the endplay when you built your mighty 7 bolt?

Yes this is true. Swapping a 6 bolt is very simple. You can reuse your stock tranny and you only have to rewire 2 sensors which is very simple. You might get some random misfire codes, but with dsmlink you can eliminate those. The 6 bolt swap is simple, and most likely safer than the 7 bolt. I stuck with the 7 but I have a 6 bolt as well just in case. :thumb: Yes I measured endplay. After 1600 miles its in spec.
 
I don't understand why the 6 bolt is so much better unless mitsu made it out of dif material a 7 bolt theoretically would be stronger wouldn't it?
 
the stock 6 bolt crank is nitrided, has bigger rods that have held 500whp, and doesnt have the tendecy to crank walk
 
Thread: 1g Head on a 2g: Whats needed?

Pretty sure this thread wasn't asking about crankwalk.

There are 7 bolts out there that don't walk. OMG
 
Thank you for all the input. I did not realize that the 6 bolt could be used w/ the OEM transmission, that makes the decision a whole lot easier as I will probably just swap a jdm 1g engine now and not take the chance on the 7 bolt.
 
I thought that the reason that the crank walk occurred was due to a batch of cranks that were produced out of spec. and there fore causing premature wear on the main bearings. So if you were gonna rip apart the engine I'm sure that you could mic. the crank to see if it has the correct measurements, and therefore if you are gonna get crankwalk or not.
 
AllBoostNoJuice said:
I thought that the reason that the crank walk occurred was due to a batch of cranks that were produced out of spec. and there fore causing premature wear on the main bearings. So if you were gonna rip apart the engine I'm sure that you could mic. the crank to see if it has the correct measurements, and therefore if you are gonna get crankwalk or not.

I also heard than it was just a bad bunch of cranshafts, that is why the 1998 & 1999 models have barely any cases.
 
Horribly unture. It has more to do with lubrication/bearing failure than it does the actual crank. There are some pretty crappy cranks out there that can last forever. The main reason there is less crankswalk in 97-99 is the simple fact that they generally have less miles.
 
Tallen said:
Horribly unture. It has more to do with lubrication/bearing failure than it does the actual crank. There are some pretty crappy cranks out there that can last forever. The main reason there is less crankswalk in 97-99 is the simple fact that they generally have less miles.

thank you for clearing that up, as most people thinks it ONLY happens to 95-96 cars and that their 97+ are sooo much better :| .
Andrew

ps to contribute to the thread www.roadraceengineering.com , I go here for all my "hot rodding"(putting oem 1g parts on my car). Youll find all you need there. :thumb:
 
Tallen said:
Horribly unture. It has more to do with lubrication/bearing failure than it does the actual crank. There are some pretty crappy cranks out there that can last forever. The main reason there is less crankswalk in 97-99 is the simple fact that they generally have less miles.

I think you are confusing spinning a rod bearing and crankwalk.
 
greathuskie said:
no, hes not

look at magnus's writeup on their theory about crankwalk

Yeah. I read that a long time ago. The key word being "theory". I still think that the improperly machined crank is the "theory" I prefer to believe. How can you say "horribly untrue" to one when there is no proof to either. It's interresting that to buy OEM bearings for a 2G crank you have to give them the serial number off the actual crank but for the 1G's you don't. That tells me that there were many variations of the 2G crank.
 
heavyD said:
Yeah. I read that a long time ago. The key word being "theory". I still think that the improperly machined crank is the "theory" I prefer to believe. How can you say "horribly untrue" to one when there is no proof to either. It's interresting that to buy OEM bearings for a 2G crank you have to give them the serial number off the actual crank but for the 1G's you don't. That tells me that there were many variations of the 2G crank.

Very true.
 
well about the 97 not having as many miles and thats y they dont crank walk as much.I have a 97 tsi with 181,000 it has not crankwalked yet. and with this many miles the chances of it walking now are slim to non. yes 7 bolts are prone to crankwalking but alot of l8ter models dont, not to say that there arnt any cases but they are alot less. It all depeneds on the individual car. But some cars can run here 7 bolts and be fine but if you dont want to take the chance all they are saying is you never know and you are better off building a 6 bolt. and not taking the chance
 
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