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Rebuilding block due to failed compression?

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FASTSPOOLINGST

15+ Year Contributor
598
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Sep 17, 2003
Elizabethtown, Kentucky
My motor crapped out on me. When i bought the car, i was told all the motor needed was a head gasket. I changed the head gasket and after I changed it, I did a compression check on the engine. There was low compression in cylinders 1 and 4...aprox 70psi in each. 2 and 3 were good. I performed a wet test on it and it brought the compression up 20 psi in the bad cylinders, but still being at 90 was below svc limits.

The head/valves are in good shape

I was thinking instead of buying a jdm engine at est. 1500 dollars to save some money, I could just buy some ross or wiseco pistons and eagles and put them in.

What all needs to be done to the motor prior to this?

just bore and hone the cylinders and resurface the block? Does anything need to be done to the crank?

Or should i just go ahead and get a jdm motor and do a swap, that way i am sure of what i have under my hood and play it safe.
 
i've never personally changed anything internal in a engine. This will be my first. I'm pretty sure it isn't rocket science though, i'm sure i'll be fine if i can get my hands on the tech data for torque specs, etc.

Been thinking even more, what about re-using my stock rods and just changing out the piston and rings. This should be all I need to get my compression up and I already have a 1g for the "good enough" rods for what my hp goals are. What do you think?

Do you know of where there are any right ups on piston changes?
 
Originally posted by Boost Deez
Do you know how to do internals? get the block hot tanked bored and honed and thats pretty much it


yup..get new rod bearings, main bearings, rod and main bolts (APR preferably) new rings, and any gasket that has been removed. much more cheaper than buying a new motor and just as good, if not better.
 
I'm in the same boat right now...:cry:

I spun a rod bearing and it trashed my crank, so I'm in the process of building my motor. I personally could not justify putting a ton of money into my car and not upgrade it. I know that it is pruven that the stock block can take in excess of 500+ whp, but if I'm going to have it apart, why not build it? If I'm going to spend $1500 on my lower end, it is going to be built. I've decided to do Ross/Eagle combo, clevite main/rod bearings, and ARP head studs.

I have not decided yet to use the ARP main studs yet due to a recent discussion about them recently in another thread. I would love to hear some more arguments whether to use them or not (argument used as a series of premises, not fighting).
~Mark
 
Originally posted by markgholland
I'm in the same boat right now...:cry:

I spun a rod bearing and it trashed my crank, so I'm in the process of building my motor. I personally could not justify putting a ton of money into my car and not upgrade it. I know that it is pruven that the stock block can take in excess of 500+ whp, but if I'm going to have it apart, why not build it? If I'm going to spend $1500 on my lower end, it is going to be built. I've decided to do Ross/Eagle combo, clevite main/rod bearings, and ARP head studs.

I have not decided yet to use the ARP main studs yet due to a recent discussion about them recently in another thread. I would love to hear some more arguments whether to use them or not (argument used as a series of premises, not fighting).
~Mark

Well, a so called fighting can bring some valuable info about things together with changes of opinions. You said it yourself why not build it while you are at it with higher quality components? The more you do the more you can expect from your engine if it's done right.
Assembling an engine is not rocket science but a little experience at doing it won't hurt. Plus some measuring devices that you don't have for sure doesn't help either.
If you still decide to do it on your own at least make sure that you asked your machinist to do the things that you cannot do no matter how good you are.
Mitch.
 
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